I need all the help i can get.. i am not that mechanically inclined so my knowledge is somewhat limited... I just replaced the starter on my truck and now it will not start.. all the time. It will crank with the best of them.. but that's all it does.. just cranks.. will not turn over.. sometimes.. and then other times i get in and turn the key and vroom there it goes.. starts right up. i don't get it.. please any and all help would be appreciated.

 

how many fuel tanks do you have? if 2 then try both tanks. can you hear the fuel pump(s)? does weather affect it at all? if you just crack the throttle open a little bit(not to the floor) does it start. you most likely have compression. so check fuel and spark.

 

I have 2 tanks... fuel in both.. i have tried giving it gas.. still nothing.. and no weather has nothing to do with it.. this happens hot or cold.. i am pretty sure it's getting fuel.. spark is my guess.. but again.. being such a novice... it's time to take it to the mechanic.. i hope i don't get abused by the bill!

 

Try turning the key from off to on (do not crank engine) a few times before you start it. If this "fixes" the problem, the problem is fuel pressure bleed down after sitting. The fuel pump will run for approx. 2 seconds when the key is turned on. Cycling the key causes it to build up lost fuel pressure. Only way to fix it is to replace the fuel pump assy, due to the anti-drain back valve is built in.

 

Well.. i took it to the dealer.. and of course the truck decided to be evil and start everytime they tried it. They are thinking maybe a dead spot on the distributer. But they aren't for sure. So i'll go pick up the truck tomorrow and just hope it starts till it doesn't.. Thank you all for your help and if you have any other ideas feel free to share them!

 

"Dead spot on the distributor"? Never heard that one, sounds like someone's blowing smoke up your a**. Hey, what do I know, only been working on Fords for 20 years. You never see everything.

 

The first thing to do would be to check to see if you're getting spark through the spark plug wires(final destination) while cranking when it won't start. Or do as bigbronc suggests with the key under no. 4. Once you determine if it's an ignition problem or a fuel delivery problem you will atleast know which tree to bark up, so to speak. A few years back on one of these forums someone was having your very problem with a Ford pickup of this vintage and it turned out to be the ignition coil.

 

I would normally agree with you bigbronc... however i trust this guy and from what he said they ran tests and it had spark and fuel.. of course like i said earlier.. everytime they would try to start it.. it would start up just fine.. so i took it home.. and left there for about 2 hours.. came home.. wouldn't start!! lol left the key in "on" position and tapped on the distibutor cap and had my brother in law crank it and it fired up.. so don't know.. think i am going to replace the cap and button.. cheaper route.. then go from there.

 

okay so to add to my growing frustration into total meltdown... it started today after i tapped on the distributor cap and left the ingnition in the "on" position. However as i was driving to work it start to run rough.. like it was missing.... when i came to a stop it idled rough.. and now that i am ready to go home.. it won't start. I really love this truck but sometimes.. i wanna threaten it with trading it in for a chevy...

 

that last post sounds like it could need a valve job. i have a Bronco with the 302 and have done many, many repairs. When you start it up, you can hear if its missing, which could mean a few things

 

Take out your ignition module on the side of your distributor and take it to your local parts store and have it tested. Also take out the relay to your fuel pump and test it. I've had a bad relay to my fuel pump act like this many times. Good luck.

 

On a 1995 the ignition module is located on the drivers side fenderwell. I think 1992 was the first year that the module was moved from the side of the distributor to the fenderwell. If it has totally quit and won't restart these components, such as the coil the ignition module and the PIP in the distributor can be tested, but if it's still intermittent(stops and restarts after a few minutes) these components can't be effectively tested because if you don't catch them in a dead state to test them they will probably test good anyway.

 

Beg to differ. My '79 F150 's ignition module was on the driver's side fenderwell. Sorry, know it's not pertinent, but I had to throw that in. Sounds electrical, but it's difficult to know if it happens intermittently. Next time it happens, the very FIRST thing to do is pop the hood, unplug the wire from your coil to the distributor and have someone watch while you crank it to see if you're getting fire. If you are, immediately plug that back to the distributor and see if it starts. If it doesn't, sounds like a fuel issue. If it does start, my first suspect would be the ignition coil itself. Rather than taking the time to track it down, unless you've replaced these recently, I'd replace everything from the coil to the plug wires (and the spark plugs if they're overdue) don't forget the distributor cap (very small cracks can cause big problems) and most of all the rotor button (I've seen terrible engine problems solved by replacing this $7 item). Don't forget the dielectric grease if this is the route you go. Moisture in the spark system may have been at the root of this problem. The few times I've seen an ignition module go bad, it wouldn't start at all and if it does it'll run so rough you'll think there's a WeightWatcher running out of points in there somewhere---put it in gear and it will immediately die. Let us know what happens. Hope this helps. The Vinman

 

Does the humidity seem to affect it. On my mom's 92 302, her dist cap is only held on by a couple clips. Her truck has trouble on humid, rainy or snowy days due to moisture in the distributor cap. It would turn over, but not start, or run rough.

My old 94 300 had a couple screws holding it down, I didn't have that problem.

If it doesn't even turn over, both our trucks had a bad connection on a wire connecting to a solenoid on top of the starter, causing an intermittant problem. A new spade connector and some heat shrink cured it.