Engine won't warm up
 

Hey Guys,

It was a balmy -11 this morning on my way to work, and I noticed that my engine temp wasn't where it usually is (colder obviously). It wasn't below the normal range but I can tell that it was a lot lower than where it's usually at. My heat wasn't nearly as hot either because of this. I stopped to pick someone up and the engine temp dipped even further. Think that this is because it is so effin cold? This is the first time it's done this and it's the first time I've had this truck in such cold weather.

Thanks

I would mount a piece of cardboard between the grill and the radiator to see if it would come up to operating temp. I imagine it's the thermostat though.

You don't think that the thermostat would just be stuck cause of these cold temps, do ya?

It could be but they are cheap and simple to replace. If you squeeze the hose leading to the housing, what happens?

Replace it. The card board trick is good to.

I have a haynes manual but am just curious- is it pretty easy? Any tricks I need to know?

I haven't replaced a t-stat from your model truck but....

Just take off the bolts holding the housing in place, pull it back, remove old thermostat and be careful to keep the o-ring, put the new one in and bolt it back down. If you're quick, you won't lose much fluid.

You may want to search this forum a little more. With about 5-10 more minutes effort you can make sure the coolant system is properly bled of air--it's rare but could be a problem. Before you remove the top of the thermostat housing, go ahead and remove the top radiator hose (from the housing, not altogether). After you install the thermostat (spring side down) fill the coolant level s-l-o-w-l-y until the level rises in the bottom housing. A Shakespearian aside: before this point,you should clean and inspect all mating surfaces on the t-stat housing. If in doubt---sand--away from where it may fall into the coolant system. Now from here on out, you're hearing my opinion not fact. Search the forum. Apply the Permatex (most people apply too much, and incorrectly) Blue should do fine in this application. The main idea is to keep a 'constant bead'. Thickness should be between 1/8th and 1/16th inch. Apply to topside of t-stat housing--main thing here is to keep that bead constant and 'clean'. Meaning no more than 1/16th inch but constant, Apply gasket to whichever side receives bolts (push gasket firmly, but gently) onto bolts. Replace housing. torque half to spec on each side

This actually happened to me a few years back, CEL light went off too because the engine was in closed loop too long?? Anyways, I drained a bunch of water from just the pet****, took the housing off with the hose still attached and replaced the stat and o-ring. Started the truck, got it hot, stat opened and it was sucking the antifreeze so I'd add more till finished. With the cap still off and the resevoir filled, squeeze the top hose to burp the air out. Not sure but through the resevoir comes the air bubbles so when no bubbles, air is out. Blocking the rad when it's this cold can't hurt but I'll bet too it's your stat. Normal range should still come up on the guage.

being that cold, i would guess thats why. how long do you drive? a 10 minute drive to work when its 5* outside, my coolant gets to about 160

With those cold temps, you can expect that. Allow the engine to warm up before driving it, and let the transmission to warm up before driving it.

Already tried 2 different thermostats... go with the cardboard...

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