I just put a tranny in my 94 flare side. While it was out I decided to replace my engine oil pan. With the tranny out I was able to drop the oil pump into the pan and get the pan out without pulling the engine because the flex plate wasn't in the way. I cleaned the pump and put everything back together and started the truck for about 15 seconds and i have no oil pressure. I'm not pleased. You can't see where the drive rod goes very well with the engine in, but i'm sure i got it up in where it goes. Any ideas? thanks.

 

I'll never drop a smallblock V8 pan in-chassis again. To me, it's about the same work but MUCH less hassle to pull the engine. And you don't end up with unknowns, like this.

It's possible for the engine to run with the pump shaft NOT inserted in the distributor, but it's unlikely that the oil pump would have fit back into place if the shaft was OUT-of-place. How long did you let the engine run? It takes a few moments for the pump to prime (suck oil up the pickup tube) and fill the journals enough to trip the pressure switch.

In any case, I strongly advise converting from that factory 6psi switch to a real pressure sender, and jumpering the instrument cluster so the gauge actually works. It's explained in more detail in this caption & those linked in it:

 

Thanks for the tip. I let it run for about 15 seconds. The only reason i did it with the engine in is because the a/c still works and i didn't wanna disrupt 16 year old o-rings. with the tranny out, it wasn't that bad. You think pulling out the distributor would shed any light on the issue?

 

you could pull the distributor get an extention and a 5/16 socket I think it is... stick it on the oil pump drive shaft and spin it the same direction as the distributor (counter clock wise) with an air ratchet until the oil system comes up or you verify the oil pump has failed..

 

Pulling the engine won't affect the A/C. The engine will come out without opening the refrigerant system, and the refrigerant system will come out still sealed.



Yes, you could glance down thru the dist hole to see that the shaft is centered, and then drop the dist back in. Just mark the dist base (near the clamp bolt) and engine so you can get the timing back close, and mark the rotor's position to the bowl so you can get it back on the same tooth. But even if you get off a tooth, you can just rotate the dist (ignoring the mark on the engine) to time it.

 

thanks for the input. I'm hopin to get time to get back into it tomorrrow but living in the outskirts of pittsburgh the wife is a huge steelers fan and i think she already made plans that involve me. Regardless thanks for the info. At least if i have to go to a steelers party there will be drinking involved.

 

Not that it matters, But how are you getting an engine out without disturbing the a/c? I don't see there being enough slack in the lines and hoses to unbolt the compressor to get it out of the way far enough to get the engine out past it. I've never tried it. I have an a/c machine so on other vehicles i've pulled them down and recharged them.

 

Did you look at the pic I posted? If you don't see it, go to your user control panel and turn on images in posts & signatures.

 

huh. i wouldn't have thought that.

 

i got it straightened out. thanks all for the help!Now i got a ticking noise like the tourque nuts are hitting the sight sheild. I know they are tight. How bout that one?

 

What did you find with the oil pump??? Enquiring minds want to know!

Have you pulled the access plate to watch/listen to the torque converter? Do you have a mechanic's stethoscope? If not, use a 3' piece of garden hose to pinpoint the sound.

 

Well i'll tell ya. Nothing! I started it again and the pressure came up. I must have just been being too cautious and didn't give it time to pump up. Anyhow i haven't taken the access plate off to see what the deal is yet. Not enough time in the day.

 

So my ticking is getting much louder and i can't see any evidence of the torque hitting anything. What's the first thing to fail if you run an engine with no pressure?

 

Rod bearings.

 

once again false alarm! thankfully. one of the weights on the torque was just barely touchin the side of the pan right above the starter. whew.I'm tired of spendin money and glad i got off easy this time.