I got a question for ya if you have done this modification. I know for a fact the hp and torque gains are damn good so i want to remove my ac, get my e fans set up and get an electric water pump, what size belt did you guys use after the ac and water pump pulley was removed? I still want to use my Goodyear Gatorback belt but im not sure they make them in the size i need. Any suggestions...?

 

i know you have to at least get an ac delete pulley. just search ac pulley on google or something and youll find one.

they make electric water pumps that hold up to daily driving?

 

all of them are, but they have a shorter expectancy, still rated for 10,000 hours of continuous ware and a 2 year warranty

 

with the e fans electric pump and ac bypass, was dyno proven on my buddys s10 extreme for about 31 horse...Im just debating if i want to loose the a/c tho...

http://www.acbypasspulleys.com/acbp188.html

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Its tempting.

 

HI!... I'm running A/C delete, MEZIERE electric water pump, SFI approved power pulleys, and 2ND idler pulley delete. You DON'T have to run a A/C eliminator pulley. You simply buy the non-A/C belt tensioner. It pulls the opposite direction. I can't give you the proper belt size since I switch to a 6-rib belt set-up with a SFI under driven crank pulley.

 

My 2002 happens to be 6 ribs, can you tell me the length of your belt?

 

HI!... I honestly don't know. It's in my storage garage about 15 miles away. lol! It would still be a bit smaller than you would need due to my under driven crank pulley.

 

i have ud pulleys aswell so if you ever go there just PM me or post it here! that would be cool

 

Keep the A/C. Unplug the clutch connector and tape it to the side. The savings of not spinning the clutch pulley vs the non AC pulley is negligible. That way if you ever want to us the AC next summer you only need to plug it in.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Thats smart thinking right there. I still want to go with the electric water pump but i kinda want to be reinsured that they are durable for daily driving, i mean 10,000 hours and a 2 year warranty ya, but i dont want to wire everything up and have it puke. I dont drive a WHOLE lot and i think im going to get a daily driver and build and boost so the f 150 so i will probably just end up doing it anyways.

 

Even if the pump pukes you should still have fail safe cooling to fall back on. Ask Neal how many years he has had his on his F-150. It used to be his daily driver. If I had the $$$$ I would get one.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

ha i will take your word for it! are they easy to wire up?

 

if your A/C is not running there is probably a 2% loss of power. . . The A/C compressor is not engaged, so its spinning freely as if it were a idler/delete pulley. . . and I really dont see a huge power draw with the MOD motor water pumps. IF this were a SBC, then yea, those BIG pumps draw HP, but ours are small and do not rob but more than the A/C does. . very minimal gains for a **** ton of money. . .

 

HI!... The A/C delete is only good for about 5-7H.P max at the flywheel. I removed mine because my compressor puked. Plus it got rid of a huge amount of junk under my hood. Plus it dropped like 50lbs off the front of my truck. I really never used it anyways. The electric W/P is good for about 10-14H.P. This has been proven over the years on the dyno. Plus you can turn on the pump and your electric fans while the engine is off in the pits to help cool it down.

 

I've had my Meziere installed since 5/06, approx 18k miles and so far no problems.
I like the fact that it is pushing coolant at the same rate at idle or redline.