Header Question for jbrew
#1
Join Date: Dec 1997
Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
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Header Question for jbrew
jbrew,
If I were to install the same headers that you have do you think that there would be enough room to fit my existing cats and Y pipe assembly to them with out too much fuss. Presently my precats are cut off just in front of the second cats.
Thanks
Jean Marc Chartier
If I were to install the same headers that you have do you think that there would be enough room to fit my existing cats and Y pipe assembly to them with out too much fuss. Presently my precats are cut off just in front of the second cats.
Thanks
Jean Marc Chartier
#3
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Any pictures or measurements will help. I have an exhaust leak and I plan on replacing the shorties. Money is tight so I am looking at all the alternatives.
OBX at $495.00 is a good deal but the resonators have to be cut out and replaced with cats. So I am looking at another $200.00. I need to pass emissions to renew plates. Pace setter has longtubes for $285.00 at SUMMIT so if I can somehow shoehorn them in then that is a huge savings.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
OBX at $495.00 is a good deal but the resonators have to be cut out and replaced with cats. So I am looking at another $200.00. I need to pass emissions to renew plates. Pace setter has longtubes for $285.00 at SUMMIT so if I can somehow shoehorn them in then that is a huge savings.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
Last edited by JMC; 10-23-2008 at 01:28 PM. Reason: SPELLING
#4
No - there will be fuss. It won't work with stock cats - To long .
I had to re-sleeve the the troyer cats to 3 inch on the header side/ modify the cat shields so I could weld in the sleeves.
Support the trans with a block of wood cut perfectly to slide in between the crossmember (the one that's riveted) and trans.
Support the engine directly under the oil pan . Believe it or not, that is the proper way.
Pull the trans support (18 mm) so you can weld most of the system on the bench.
It barley fit. I had to weld the system to the headers laying down/ caught myself on fire twice - first time I didn't know it until smoke filled the inside of my welding helmet. Then I did a code red, priority 9 / B-lined for the garden hose. - Put the flames out/ changed my shorts and continued.
Factory cats are longer than troyer cats, they won't work. You have a different tranny tho. It could be easier. I have the E4OD/4R100.
Pace Setters are some long a$$ headers. It was a total B^TCH - NEVER AGAIN! Next time I'll get the kit from OBX or Dynatec that comes with everything (including the Y) - Or find a shop that will do it. - But it can be done.
Oh yea , I had pics of everything and lost them - pi$$ed me off, - I took my computer to Indiana, set it up at the holiday inn express and got a bug right away. Lost allot of pics and all of those. I usually upload online and backup on another HD, BUT! , I haven't did that in awhile and paid for it.
I had to re-sleeve the the troyer cats to 3 inch on the header side/ modify the cat shields so I could weld in the sleeves.
Support the trans with a block of wood cut perfectly to slide in between the crossmember (the one that's riveted) and trans.
Support the engine directly under the oil pan . Believe it or not, that is the proper way.
Pull the trans support (18 mm) so you can weld most of the system on the bench.
It barley fit. I had to weld the system to the headers laying down/ caught myself on fire twice - first time I didn't know it until smoke filled the inside of my welding helmet. Then I did a code red, priority 9 / B-lined for the garden hose. - Put the flames out/ changed my shorts and continued.
Factory cats are longer than troyer cats, they won't work. You have a different tranny tho. It could be easier. I have the E4OD/4R100.
Pace Setters are some long a$$ headers. It was a total B^TCH - NEVER AGAIN! Next time I'll get the kit from OBX or Dynatec that comes with everything (including the Y) - Or find a shop that will do it. - But it can be done.
Oh yea , I had pics of everything and lost them - pi$$ed me off, - I took my computer to Indiana, set it up at the holiday inn express and got a bug right away. Lost allot of pics and all of those. I usually upload online and backup on another HD, BUT! , I haven't did that in awhile and paid for it.
Last edited by jbrew; 10-23-2008 at 02:54 PM.
#5
JMC, i built my own midsection after the obx resonators, all quickly removable. i however will eventually make one more modification.
after my resonators i want to add in a small section of SS flex since my motor torque's over pretty good. i want to make it to where the resonators have another flange to bolt up after it instead of band clamps for less leaks.
what i did was i band clamped my pipes with bends to clear the trans and x-case to the resonators (cats in your app). the pipe then wraps under the tail housing and slip yoke on the x-case, i then extended the pipe to a removable "H" that then clamps to my dual exhaust...
total costs was minimal after the OBX kit... u want pics?
after my resonators i want to add in a small section of SS flex since my motor torque's over pretty good. i want to make it to where the resonators have another flange to bolt up after it instead of band clamps for less leaks.
what i did was i band clamped my pipes with bends to clear the trans and x-case to the resonators (cats in your app). the pipe then wraps under the tail housing and slip yoke on the x-case, i then extended the pipe to a removable "H" that then clamps to my dual exhaust...
total costs was minimal after the OBX kit... u want pics?
Last edited by Klitch; 10-23-2008 at 03:53 PM.
#7
I bought High-flows and put them in the OBX kit. It was easy, the local muffler shop just turned the one end of each cat into a flared end for a donut. Worked good. The Highflows cost less then what I got when brought my OEM cats in for scrap
You could probably cut the flared ends off of the resontators in the OBX kit and stretch them and weld them right to the cats.
You could probably cut the flared ends off of the resontators in the OBX kit and stretch them and weld them right to the cats.
Last edited by Blown F-150; 10-23-2008 at 04:12 PM. Reason: Bright Idea lol
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#8
Also I have the BIGGER rectangle high flows. Magnaflow makes a round high flow that will allow you to keep the factory heat shields. There's NO - WAY I can get the heat shields in with the square HF's.
Something to think about. Remember I'm running the stock tune. I haven't tuned at all yet. With the factory tune I gained 6 seconds after the swap. I do have that on video. 0 - 80 runs. Everybody has seen those, I know you have.
I believe the PACE SETTERS are the longest LT's out there. I have those Vids and more pics in an public online album here -
http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393
Tons of pics in my galleries here as well..
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=7538
Something to think about. Remember I'm running the stock tune. I haven't tuned at all yet. With the factory tune I gained 6 seconds after the swap. I do have that on video. 0 - 80 runs. Everybody has seen those, I know you have.
I believe the PACE SETTERS are the longest LT's out there. I have those Vids and more pics in an public online album here -
http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393
Tons of pics in my galleries here as well..
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=7538
#9
#10
Nah , I smoked my buddies 99 and an 01 - Beat a stock 3 valve as well. It runs good , but has 254,000 miles. I don't want to f^ck with the motor to much at this point. My bodies purdy shot too, still looks good , but I'm hiding allot of rust on it. I'll have to find another down south and build it someday.
I polished the intake head ports and the Aluminum intake, I think that made the difference. I need to get it dialed in , I will do that.
No, - I wish someone would do like a header shoot-out on the two and three valve. Built54 is the only one who reported the numbers from the dyno. He dyno'ed shorties and the LT'S and showed a 30 HP gainer over shorties.
I polished the intake head ports and the Aluminum intake, I think that made the difference. I need to get it dialed in , I will do that.
No, - I wish someone would do like a header shoot-out on the two and three valve. Built54 is the only one who reported the numbers from the dyno. He dyno'ed shorties and the LT'S and showed a 30 HP gainer over shorties.
Last edited by jbrew; 10-23-2008 at 05:18 PM.
#11
I hear yuh, hey do you still have all 4 factory cats laying around ? You can take them back to an auto salvage. Mine fetched me $160 for all 4 old ones, that will just about wash the price of new HF's. The market went even higher after I did this and people were getting $200 for all four Ford cats. I'm not sure what the markets like now.
You need 3" HF's to mount on the headers. Troyer sells them, Summit might.
You need a welder definitly to make this work , I think you have one. I did it with a Flux core - Without gas , Yea it sucked, but I did it without leaks eventually. Use gas if you MIG - Less headaches.
I had to cut, twist, sleeve and weld my EGR pipe to get it to line up as well.
You need 3" HF's to mount on the headers. Troyer sells them, Summit might.
You need a welder definitly to make this work , I think you have one. I did it with a Flux core - Without gas , Yea it sucked, but I did it without leaks eventually. Use gas if you MIG - Less headaches.
I had to cut, twist, sleeve and weld my EGR pipe to get it to line up as well.
Last edited by jbrew; 10-23-2008 at 05:53 PM.
#12
Join Date: Dec 1997
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Thanks for all the feedback guys. Still on the fence about what to do. Probably will be there till I get a splinter up my but.
There is a guy in town that welds exhaust systems for cheap. Quality work and he fabs shìt too. I will talk to him about what he thinks
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
There is a guy in town that welds exhaust systems for cheap. Quality work and he fabs shìt too. I will talk to him about what he thinks
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
#13
I didn't use the Y in this pic. The 3" Off road pipe I purchased here didn't fit. So don't order that from PaceSetter . Figured I better post that just in case - I had a hell of a time getting my money back from them.
http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393...93143237751458
http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393...93143237751458
#14
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jbrew,
Thanks for the picture.
My factory cats are 9 years old. 1½ years ago they stilled passed Ontario emissions but I am not sure that in May 2009 they will be up to the task. Add to that the blower and I am worried.
The factory Y pipe is restrictive so that might as well get replaced too. If I follow that train of thought I will be replacing every thing between the muffler and the engine block.
So if I go with Pacesetter long tubes, or any other brand, there is no way that I can bolt it up to my existing cats without cutting and so on. The only two true bolt ons that I know of are OBX and Dynatech. $500 VS $1300. With OBX I still need cats. With Dynatech I need a loan......
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
Thanks for the picture.
My factory cats are 9 years old. 1½ years ago they stilled passed Ontario emissions but I am not sure that in May 2009 they will be up to the task. Add to that the blower and I am worried.
The factory Y pipe is restrictive so that might as well get replaced too. If I follow that train of thought I will be replacing every thing between the muffler and the engine block.
So if I go with Pacesetter long tubes, or any other brand, there is no way that I can bolt it up to my existing cats without cutting and so on. The only two true bolt ons that I know of are OBX and Dynatech. $500 VS $1300. With OBX I still need cats. With Dynatech I need a loan......
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
#15
jbrew,
Thanks for the picture.
My factory cats are 9 years old. 1½ years ago they stilled passed Ontario emissions but I am not sure that in May 2009 they will be up to the task. Add to that the blower and I am worried.
The factory Y pipe is restrictive so that might as well get replaced too. If I follow that train of thought I will be replacing every thing between the muffler and the engine block.
So if I go with Pacesetter long tubes, or any other brand, there is no way that I can bolt it up to my existing cats without cutting and so on. The only two true bolt ons that I know of are OBX and Dynatech. $500 VS $1300. With OBX I still need cats. With Dynatech I need a loan......
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
Thanks for the picture.
My factory cats are 9 years old. 1½ years ago they stilled passed Ontario emissions but I am not sure that in May 2009 they will be up to the task. Add to that the blower and I am worried.
The factory Y pipe is restrictive so that might as well get replaced too. If I follow that train of thought I will be replacing every thing between the muffler and the engine block.
So if I go with Pacesetter long tubes, or any other brand, there is no way that I can bolt it up to my existing cats without cutting and so on. The only two true bolt ons that I know of are OBX and Dynatech. $500 VS $1300. With OBX I still need cats. With Dynatech I need a loan......
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
I could be wrong , but if your cats weren't doing the job wouldn't you have a PO420 or 430 code? Do they throw a snorkel over the exhaust when they check it? Or do they just plug into your data link, or both?
I ran with just my forward cats and didn't throw any codes.
No, can't use the stock rears - to long .
The only way to offset new converters cost is taking your old ones to a salvage yard - If you have all 4 , you'll get 150 -200 bucks for them. Just the two rears is about $120 - They pay cash.
Last edited by jbrew; 10-24-2008 at 12:36 PM.