Help with DPFE SENSOR
#1
#2
First # F = Decade. = 1990
Second # 7 = Year within Decade.
Third # U = Product Line - That one means {Econoline 1961-later}
Fourth # E = Source of part - Engine Engineering; Powertrain and Chassis product Engineering.
9J460 is the basic part # - Letters that follow indicates Design Change.
F77E = The third number 7 indicates - Courier truck 1971-75; Ranger and Bronco II 1983-later.
The last letter in the first set you posted "Z" = Ford parts and service. lol - Confused yet ?
From what I've heard, If you have the Aluminum sensor make sure you get one (I think that's what you have )
I think the F7UE is what you want. Take a look on your sensor itself for the numbers.
Here I just snapped a shot of mine, the numbers should be on it - it's a 98 5.4L tho - and I purchased this one from TOMCO last winter.
Theres all kinds of numbers for those that work. This one has worked for me so far. - But latest is marked by the second number "7" in your case. The plastic sensors on the other hand - were probematic.
Second # 7 = Year within Decade.
Third # U = Product Line - That one means {Econoline 1961-later}
Fourth # E = Source of part - Engine Engineering; Powertrain and Chassis product Engineering.
9J460 is the basic part # - Letters that follow indicates Design Change.
F77E = The third number 7 indicates - Courier truck 1971-75; Ranger and Bronco II 1983-later.
The last letter in the first set you posted "Z" = Ford parts and service. lol - Confused yet ?
From what I've heard, If you have the Aluminum sensor make sure you get one (I think that's what you have )
I think the F7UE is what you want. Take a look on your sensor itself for the numbers.
Here I just snapped a shot of mine, the numbers should be on it - it's a 98 5.4L tho - and I purchased this one from TOMCO last winter.
Theres all kinds of numbers for those that work. This one has worked for me so far. - But latest is marked by the second number "7" in your case. The plastic sensors on the other hand - were probematic.
Last edited by jbrew; 04-26-2008 at 06:02 PM.
#3
Well , scratch what I said earlier because now it's not making sense. I just took a shot of my old one's and one is stock from 98. So I don't get it. I have what the #'s mean from Ford , but it's not making sense.
Oh well , here's a shot of my old DPFE's for the 98 -
My stock DPFE -
Another from a 98 3.8L. What in the hell did I do to that thing -
Heres a write up I just found, but it explains the numbers pretty much the same way. -
http://www.classicmustang.com/decoding_part_numbers.htm
Oh well , here's a shot of my old DPFE's for the 98 -
My stock DPFE -
Another from a 98 3.8L. What in the hell did I do to that thing -
Heres a write up I just found, but it explains the numbers pretty much the same way. -
http://www.classicmustang.com/decoding_part_numbers.htm
Last edited by jbrew; 04-26-2008 at 07:00 PM.
#4
First # F = Decade. = 1990
Second # 7 = Year within Decade.
Third # U = Product Line - That one means {Econoline 1961-later}
Fourth # E = Source of part - Engine Engineering; Powertrain and Chassis product Engineering.
9J460 is the basic part # - Letters that follow indicates Design Change.
F77E = The third number 7 indicates - Courier truck 1971-75; Ranger and Bronco II 1983-later.
The last letter in the first set you posted "Z" = Ford parts and service. lol - Confused yet ?
From what I've heard, If you have the Aluminum sensor make sure you get one (I think that's what you have )
I think the F7UE is what you want. Take a look on your sensor itself for the numbers.
Here I just snapped a shot of mine, the numbers should be on it - it's a 98 5.4L tho - and I purchased this one from TOMCO last winter.
Theres all kinds of numbers for those that work. This one has worked for me so far. - But latest is marked by the second number "7" in your case. The plastic sensors on the other hand - were probematic.
Second # 7 = Year within Decade.
Third # U = Product Line - That one means {Econoline 1961-later}
Fourth # E = Source of part - Engine Engineering; Powertrain and Chassis product Engineering.
9J460 is the basic part # - Letters that follow indicates Design Change.
F77E = The third number 7 indicates - Courier truck 1971-75; Ranger and Bronco II 1983-later.
The last letter in the first set you posted "Z" = Ford parts and service. lol - Confused yet ?
From what I've heard, If you have the Aluminum sensor make sure you get one (I think that's what you have )
I think the F7UE is what you want. Take a look on your sensor itself for the numbers.
Here I just snapped a shot of mine, the numbers should be on it - it's a 98 5.4L tho - and I purchased this one from TOMCO last winter.
Theres all kinds of numbers for those that work. This one has worked for me so far. - But latest is marked by the second number "7" in your case. The plastic sensors on the other hand - were probematic.
The place where you sent me to buy my COPS global automotive has it for $34.95,motorcrart is $63.00.
Thanks
#5
Yea , I think that's what I paid for the new one. Around $60 - but got that at TOMCO - Like I said , they had problems with the plastic ones on later models, but I think you and I don't have to worry about that. I would stick with the Motorcraft part if you can tho. I'm not sure what Global carries as far as that part. It might be OEM - duno.
Last edited by jbrew; 04-26-2008 at 06:37 PM.
#6
Yea , I think that's what I paid for the new one. Around $60 - but got that at TOMCO - Like I said , they had problems with the plastic ones on later models, but I think you and I don't have to worry about that. I would stick with the Motorcraft part if you can tho. I'm not sure what Global carries as far as that part. It might be OEM - duno.
thanks for the help,again.
#7
When I looked up my engine type at tomco they had four types of engines 5.4L,5.4M,5.4Z and (3) not sure what mine is.http://www.tomco-inc.com/EGR_Delta_P...nsor_9045.aspx
thanks for the help,again.
thanks for the help,again.
http://www.tomco-inc.com/EGR_Delta_P...ck_Sensor.aspx
The click on Stock number and it shows you a pic of your sensor - The Aluminum one. Here -
http://www.tomco-inc.com/admin/ProductImages/10906.jpg
That's what I ordered and what's in the pic above. It's worked flawlessly AND it's cheaper than I thought at first, but I remember now lol
Last edited by jbrew; 04-26-2008 at 07:13 PM.
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#8
Keep going - Yours is the 5.4L - Click at the bottom "MISC" - For the 99 , your part #'s will come up and price -
http://www.tomco-inc.com/EGR_Delta_P...ck_Sensor.aspx
The click on Stock number and it shows you a pic of your sensor - The Aluminum one. Here -
http://www.tomco-inc.com/admin/ProductImages/10906.jpg
That's what I ordered and what's in the pic above. It's worked flawlessly AND it's cheaper than I thought at first, but I remember now lol
http://www.tomco-inc.com/EGR_Delta_P...ck_Sensor.aspx
The click on Stock number and it shows you a pic of your sensor - The Aluminum one. Here -
http://www.tomco-inc.com/admin/ProductImages/10906.jpg
That's what I ordered and what's in the pic above. It's worked flawlessly AND it's cheaper than I thought at first, but I remember now lol
#10
I got the DPFE sensor today and installed it,I took it for a spin and problem still there.After an hour of driving I thought maybe try switching the hoses around,so I did.
I noticed the check engine light came on but the problem was gone.
My question is what are the letters on the DPFE sensor.
There EF & H, if I clear the code and leave the hoses switched is it ok or maybe just eliminate them period.
Maybe at some time the hoses got pulled apart while at the shop and never put back right.
How can I tell if there hooked up the right way.
Thanks
I noticed the check engine light came on but the problem was gone.
My question is what are the letters on the DPFE sensor.
There EF & H, if I clear the code and leave the hoses switched is it ok or maybe just eliminate them period.
Maybe at some time the hoses got pulled apart while at the shop and never put back right.
How can I tell if there hooked up the right way.
Thanks
#11
One hose has a larger ID than the other. One stem on the DPFE Sensor is larger than the other one.
The top line on the EGR pipe itself is the intake manifold side - or "REF" on the sensor. Smaller ID tube. - (That hose goes to the plug/connector side)
The bottom line from the EGR pipe is the Exhaust Manifold side - or "HI" on the sensor. Larger ID tube. (That one plugs in opposite of plug side)
Theres an orifice in between the two hard lines that stem from the main EGR pipe. Works just like a venturi.
If that new sensor doesn't work and your rebooting your computer each time you change things around. Then you must have wiring problems - don't see that happen much. - In-fact , I haven't ever seen that happen in that area - I can't believe you still have a problem, specially after you cleaned the ports.
Maybe someone else can help with that.
The top line on the EGR pipe itself is the intake manifold side - or "REF" on the sensor. Smaller ID tube. - (That hose goes to the plug/connector side)
The bottom line from the EGR pipe is the Exhaust Manifold side - or "HI" on the sensor. Larger ID tube. (That one plugs in opposite of plug side)
Theres an orifice in between the two hard lines that stem from the main EGR pipe. Works just like a venturi.
If that new sensor doesn't work and your rebooting your computer each time you change things around. Then you must have wiring problems - don't see that happen much. - In-fact , I haven't ever seen that happen in that area - I can't believe you still have a problem, specially after you cleaned the ports.
Maybe someone else can help with that.
Last edited by jbrew; 05-02-2008 at 02:19 AM.
#12
One hose has a larger ID than the other. One stem on the DPFE Sensor is larger than the other one.
The top line on the EGR pipe itself is the intake manifold side - or "REF" on the sensor. Smaller ID tube. - (That hose goes to the plug/connector side)
The bottom line from the EGR pipe is the Exhaust Manifold side - or "HI" on the sensor. Larger ID tube. (That one plugs in opposite of plug side)
Theres an orifice in between the two hard lines that stem from the main EGR pipe. Works just like a venturi.
If that new sensor doesn't work and your rebooting your computer each time you change things around. Then you must have wiring problems - don't see that happen much. - In-fact , I haven't ever seen that happen in that area - I can't believe you still have a problem, specially after you cleaned the ports.
Maybe someone else can help with that.
The top line on the EGR pipe itself is the intake manifold side - or "REF" on the sensor. Smaller ID tube. - (That hose goes to the plug/connector side)
The bottom line from the EGR pipe is the Exhaust Manifold side - or "HI" on the sensor. Larger ID tube. (That one plugs in opposite of plug side)
Theres an orifice in between the two hard lines that stem from the main EGR pipe. Works just like a venturi.
If that new sensor doesn't work and your rebooting your computer each time you change things around. Then you must have wiring problems - don't see that happen much. - In-fact , I haven't ever seen that happen in that area - I can't believe you still have a problem, specially after you cleaned the ports.
Maybe someone else can help with that.
Or where can I look for the problem.
Thanks again
#13
How are clearing ? You have to disconnect the battery for AT-LEAST 15 minutes or you won't do any good and reboot is denied.
Disconnect both side of the battery - after 20 minutes pass, connect the positive first , then the neg. I posted all the info for you to be able to get this right , but you have to follow.
Good Luck
You did get the Aluminum sensor correct - not the plastic ? These sensors should not be interchanged - further, some sensors have a modified voltage output. Always replace with same.
Last edited by jbrew; 05-02-2008 at 07:44 PM.