Who runs MotorCraft Syn-Blend Oil Exclusively?
#16
Originally Posted by jbrew
Absolutely TRUE Amsoil story -
I got a case of Amsoil crankcase oil as a gift from a buddy who works at a third party supplier.
Engine had 185,000 miles at the time. After about 1000 miles on that Amsoil I had so much sludge under the valve covers - it freaked me out at the time.
I drained the oil and decided to just use the rest of the Amsoil up that I had. Again I got that sludge , but not as much.
So I went back to using what I was -Castrol 50/50 Syn blend and didn't get any sludge.
This is what happened - Norm was the one that explained this and I believe that is what happened -
The Amsoil cleaned my internals so well, the sludge was a side effect to that. Yea , it was cold and I frequently made short trips, but the engine never had anything like this happen when running Castrol - I keep a pretty good eye on things. I want this truck to last me.
Hands down that Amsoil IS good sh^t - To expensive for me to run in the crankcase. I like to change the oil every 3k and won't have it any other way. However, I do run Amsoil in my E4OD (trans)/ Gears/ T-case/Power steering and now having 238,000 on the truck; she runs smooth, shifts perfectly (stock trans).
At one time it wasn't this smooth at higher speeds. It is now and has been for along time since changing the drive train lubrication over Amsoil products.
I got a case of Amsoil crankcase oil as a gift from a buddy who works at a third party supplier.
Engine had 185,000 miles at the time. After about 1000 miles on that Amsoil I had so much sludge under the valve covers - it freaked me out at the time.
I drained the oil and decided to just use the rest of the Amsoil up that I had. Again I got that sludge , but not as much.
So I went back to using what I was -Castrol 50/50 Syn blend and didn't get any sludge.
This is what happened - Norm was the one that explained this and I believe that is what happened -
The Amsoil cleaned my internals so well, the sludge was a side effect to that. Yea , it was cold and I frequently made short trips, but the engine never had anything like this happen when running Castrol - I keep a pretty good eye on things. I want this truck to last me.
Hands down that Amsoil IS good sh^t - To expensive for me to run in the crankcase. I like to change the oil every 3k and won't have it any other way. However, I do run Amsoil in my E4OD (trans)/ Gears/ T-case/Power steering and now having 238,000 on the truck; she runs smooth, shifts perfectly (stock trans).
At one time it wasn't this smooth at higher speeds. It is now and has been for along time since changing the drive train lubrication over Amsoil products.
run about a half a quart of ATF through your motor for about 5 mins just before you do your next oil change and then watch the sludge pour out. works wonders
#17
Originally Posted by Gotts2BMe
run about a half a quart of ATF through your motor for about 5 mins just before you do your next oil change and then watch the sludge pour out. works wonders
You have done this correct? I'll have to try, a good flush can't hurt, thanks for the info.
#18
Originally Posted by jbrew
That works ? I have some on the shelf . I bet it does like you said. That stuff worked wonders in my trans. It hasn't slipped in almost two years. It use to be unable to brake torque without slipping lol - It hooks right now
You have done this correct? I'll have to try, a good flush can't hurt, thanks for the info.
You have done this correct? I'll have to try, a good flush can't hurt, thanks for the info.
The detergents in it gently break down the sludge build up and help clean up your internals but still keep it lubed. Make sure your engine is warm when you initially pour it in there. Some people drive around for a while and put the motor under load but I haven't done that yet and probably wont.
#19
Originally Posted by Gotts2BMe
run about a half a quart of ATF through your motor for about 5 mins just before you do your next oil change and then watch the sludge pour out. works wonders
#20
Originally Posted by roushstage2
I will have to try that in my truck! I know I have quite a bit of sludge in there. Oil is always black when I change it @ 3,000 miles.
Get a used oil analysis from somewhere...
#21
Originally Posted by kars85
If your oil is black after 3k, chances are it has little influence as to life left in your oil or the amount of "sludge" in your engine.
Get a used oil analysis from somewhere...
Get a used oil analysis from somewhere...
I guess I should say, my oil isn't black on the stick @ 3k. Still looks good and doesn't look like it's begun to break down yet.
#22
Originally Posted by jbrew
An analysis is the best way to go if you really want to know. I can tell how spent the oil is roughly, by looking at it on the stick. Yea, it's always black coming out of the pan; on the stick good oil will still look it, won't be black - not @ 3k anyway.
I guess I should say, my oil isn't black on the stick @ 3k. Still looks good and doesn't look like it's begun to break down yet.
I guess I should say, my oil isn't black on the stick @ 3k. Still looks good and doesn't look like it's begun to break down yet.
#24
Originally Posted by Galaxy
So because the price of crude oil has gone through the roof lately...not to mention how much it's gone up in the past two years alone...all these companies should just take it in the shorts instead of passing it along to the consumer?? I guess you're going to boycot milk also, and everything else in your life that's gone up due to higher shipping cost...due to higher oil prices...How on earth will you survive if you boycot everything that's gone up lately for no other reason that oil prices??
OK, that was a little rough, I apologize. My dad ran MC blend in his last truck exclusively with no ill effects what so ever. Since you're bitching about prices, why not consider running a higher quality full synthetic oil and stretch out your change intervals. That's where true, drastic money savings are at with no detriment to your motor at all. My dad, and I, and many others run Amsoil for 10,000+ miles on a change.
OK, that was a little rough, I apologize. My dad ran MC blend in his last truck exclusively with no ill effects what so ever. Since you're bitching about prices, why not consider running a higher quality full synthetic oil and stretch out your change intervals. That's where true, drastic money savings are at with no detriment to your motor at all. My dad, and I, and many others run Amsoil for 10,000+ miles on a change.
Exxon Mobil Profit Sets Record Again
By JAD MOUAWAD
Published: February 1, 2008
The company reported Friday that it beat its own record for the highest profits ever recorded by any company, with net income rising 3 percent to $40.6 billion, thanks to surging oil prices. The company’s sales, more than $404 billion, exceeded the gross domestic product of 120 countries.
Exxon Mobil earned more than $1,287 of profit for every second of 2007.
Read on:
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/01/bu...8b0&ei=5087%0A
But yeah let compare that to MILK
#25
Originally Posted by tech-doc
I agree about the analysis. But, the pump doesn't pull from dipstick level. It draws from the bottom of the pan. Just some food for thought.
#26
Originally Posted by SIK-06
is it late to switch to Full Syn at 45k?
The reason Mobil 1 prices are increasing is even though it's "synthetic", it uses petroleum base stocks (GP3 dino). There aren't too many pure synthetics left - Amsoil (except the XL series) is still PAO and THAT stuff is getting costly too.
#27
Originally Posted by SIK-06
The company reported Friday that it beat its own record for the highest profits ever recorded by any company, with net income rising 3 percent to $40.6 billion, thanks to surging oil prices. The company’s sales, more than $404 billion, exceeded the gross domestic product of 120 countries
If I did the math right that's about an 11% profit margin. I'm not a business major. Is that excessive?
Looks like they earned $40.6b profit after expending and investing around $363b.
I'm not necessarily defending big oil, but...these record profits just might be coming from record expenditures and investments as far as what they spend to find the oil and get it to us.
On the original subject, I have used MC 5w/20 and the MC 820S filter exclusively since day one for my '01 Screw 4.6. Absolutely trouble free (except for the incident with the PCV valve which was my fault for not changing it at 100k as recomended.
#28
Any biz that is operating at less than 10% is not doing well even if it is a hot dog stand.
As to oil clearness, a motor that colors it absolute black within 3000 miles is not in the best of condition.
At 5000 the color should still be somewhat transparent.
Just because the color is black does not mean the oil is used up. It means the additive part or detergent that keeps carbon in suspension instead of sticking to the metal parts is working as it is intended to do.
Most of the micron size of carbon is smaller than a filter will take all out or most of it would be caught in the filter and begin blocking and bypass very quickly.
It's all normal.
Diesel spec oil has more detergent and should not be used in a gas motor for obvious reasons. A diesel produces more carbon and that higher detergent level used in a gas motor will wash the other package parts off the places it's needed and cause high wear rates.
As to oil clearness, a motor that colors it absolute black within 3000 miles is not in the best of condition.
At 5000 the color should still be somewhat transparent.
Just because the color is black does not mean the oil is used up. It means the additive part or detergent that keeps carbon in suspension instead of sticking to the metal parts is working as it is intended to do.
Most of the micron size of carbon is smaller than a filter will take all out or most of it would be caught in the filter and begin blocking and bypass very quickly.
It's all normal.
Diesel spec oil has more detergent and should not be used in a gas motor for obvious reasons. A diesel produces more carbon and that higher detergent level used in a gas motor will wash the other package parts off the places it's needed and cause high wear rates.
#29