Hey all, my buddy just put an Efan on his F350 1996 diesel. He was bragging how good it cooled and whatnot, until he told me its directly connected to the power, when he turns the key to on it starts and it is running all the time he is cranking his engine until it starts. So basically hes running his fan all the time. This isn't a good idea isn't it? I told him that will reduce motor life and how fast he drives on the freeway it could overrev the motor and burn it out.

I was thinking of Efans on my truck and he said oh we can hook it up just like mine is. I didn't take too fondly to that idea because he has A/C too, and only has the fan on 100% of time engine is running. Which isnt bad except for the fan of course!

What would you folks recommend I do? I figured a dual kit with control for engine temp and AC control. I wonder if Advance auto parts has these controllers? I planned to get my fans off of Ebay.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!

 

Most prefab fan kits have a controller that prevents running like you described. I have the FAL kit #295 on my 03 Expedition. Two 13.5" fans, 4600 cfm when at full power. Fans do not come on as soon as ignition is on. Fans are controlled by a temp probe in the radiator (between the fins) and can be set to come on at a desired temperature. Also has an AC controller. Wired into the clutch power supply, the controller senses a signal and then turns the fans on and off with the cycling of the clutch. Also hardly ever use the fans in winter due to cold temps. Fans also do not turn on while driving (except for AC use) due to ram air cooling of the radiator.

I picked up 1-1.5 mpgs and the xtra power from not turning the heavy crank fan is noticeable from SOP (seat of the pants). Expensive to buy a kit. Amazon.com has the best prices. Some guys build their own from relays and controllers and fans bought piece-meal. I'm not that familiar with electronics so I went the kit route. Very happy thus far.

do a search and you will find TONS of info on efans here.

 

I'm ok on the wiring I just want to be able to get all the electrical stuff (controller,relays,probe) or a kit like this, locally. I imagine NAPA or advance should have something....

 

I would suggest getting a controller to a) go on when it hits a certain temp and b) if the a/c compressor kicks on. Having it run constantly is no good, it will burn out the fan in no time. Especially on his, diesel needs to build up heat to run good, but not too much. Invest in a controller and wire accordingly. Having it run all the time may set you're engine to run in a closed loop more often using more gas blah blah which is no good either.

NAPA and Advance will have stuff, probably a Hayden controller. P/S, weather tite you're connections and dielectric grease where needed, trust me. Weatherproofing is not overkill as I just had to re-do some.

 

I made up a powerpoint show with pics of my install. I put the controller inside the truck, behind the glove box. PM me with your address and I can email you the ppt show,if you'd like.

 

Heres what I thought

Either 1 big fan to run on temp and the A/C compressor

OR

twin fans, 1 set on temp only
both set on A/C control

OR both on temp and both on A/C

Is there any wrong way???

Thanks!

 

I myself like the Flex a lite kit as it has 2 fans, runs both durind temp setting and both on at a/c setting. The controller also runs them mainly at 60%, which is 3300 cfm's and I think I've seen it a few times at 100% doing 5500cfm's. I would go 2 fans in any event.

 

Thats what I figured, is there a place to buy JUST the controller that does that versus buying the whole kit???

Im not picky about FAL controllers, any brand will do.

Thanks!

 

Waterman308,
Would you mind sending me that powerpoint of the fans? I can't PM you, haven't been a member long enough or not enough posts.....
Or you can reply by email and I'll send you my address.
Thanks,
Derrick

 

Like you said, NAPA or someone like that ought to have one. I have a Hayden for my other car and have yet to test it so I don't know yet if they are good. I hear SPAL is good too.

 

I'd like to add it here as an article, but i have no idea how to do that. I sent an email to the moderator a while ago but never heard anything.

 

Good enough! Thanks folks! I guess I have some shopping and looking to do!

 

OK guys, I think i found a really good setup! Tell me whatcha all think!

2 of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROCO...mZ230167730270

1 of these guys (thread in probe or th fin push in probe?)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ELECT...mZ230168628503

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ELECT...mZ230168631626

 

Autozone has the Temp controllers, along with Orielly, but Autozone's version (without the relay) is 17.99 the cheapest you will find availble.

Run the controller into one relay, the controller will ground out the relay when its hot enough, then the relay sends power to the fan.

Run two switches to the interior, one for each fan that you turn both on when the AC is on. You can do it through a single switch, but i like to have options on how and when the fans come on.

I built my own set up, then built one for Jwool15. You shouldnt spend more then 150 bucks to build your own complete setup

Oh and when you are shopping for fans on ebay, start with looking for Low Amperage Draw fans, and then if you can find a seller that includes mounting hardware with the fans.
-Patrick

 

This is IMHO okay?

Fans: cheap & of unknown quality. Buy an extra one, at least. And 16"'ers would be preferable. Lowest amp draw is not advisable - energy is needed to push true CFM in a loaded situation, even accounting for fan efficiency. Free-air amp ratings are as meaningless as free-air CFM specs.

..... Example: Ford RF-86 - HUGE current draw, but also HUGE loaded CFM - that's no coincidence - AND it's an efficient fan.


Controllers: not adjustable - the settings are too low. Likely will never turn off; your thermostat is a 192 degree unit. Buy high quality adjustable set point units ( e.g SPAL, DCControl). Borrow an IR point & shoot thermometer to calibrate.

In general: this is your truck's cooling system, not it's audio system, If it fails, you are SOL. Only as good as it's weakest (or cheapest) link. Be it wiring, relays, fuse holders, fan motor windings, ACTUAL CFM - not the BS ratings in free air you see there, etc.

From experience. For a daily driver, you want dead-nuts, bulletproof, transparent reliability. If you can't/won't build to that, then just keep the stock mech fan in place & spend your time elsewhere.

Pat & I agreed to disagree on this long ago - So I'm cool ( hey, a pun lol!). The reason guys like Pat can get away with this is, he's handy as hell & can install/repair these things with his eyes closed. Others may not be so inclined.

I'm NOT saying you can't build a system for less than a kit, but choose wisely, do it right, plan the install with modularity, redundancy and maintenance/replacement ease in mind.

Just sayin'...