DPFE ...fixed...not replaced...FIXED!
DPFE ...fixed...not replaced...FIXED!
I decided to try to fix my old original ford DPFE unit...NOT replace...FIX!
It worked.
After buying a new NAPA DPFE for the 98, F150,4.6L,2x4, 135K it was still throwing a constant CEL 1410. Drat!
After much diagnosis the new DPFE purchased was "suspect". So, not wanting to buy another new DPFE I decided that it was worth the effort to try to fix the old original metal boxed unit that was throwing codes 0401 and 1401.
Here's how I fixed that DPFE (sorry no pics. I thought it was total folly at the time but it worked):
The body of the DPFE is held together by 6 recessed steel rivets.
Drill rivets out enough (not from the head side) and push the rivets out with a nail punch. DONT drill all the way through the DPFE body as you will destroy some rubber gaskets you will need for reassembly.
Carefully pull apart the 2 body halves.
I noticed lots of white crud (and some black slime) in there and blocked ports.
Used appropriately sized drill bits to clear the ports. To do this set body half in soft jaws of vice, You don't have to be jeweler delicate but don't be rough either.
Carefully pull the ceramic sensor up (round white disk) and soak body halves overnight in a 50/50 water/distilled vinegar solution in a small glass bowl. A dental pic to remove any corrosion in gasket seats helps too.
I propped up the sensor (kind of standing up) and taped so electronic components never touched the weak acid vinegar solution. Be careful no electronic parts touch your acid bath. I hope that makes sense?
Rinse with fresh water and let dry completely (again, not the electrical parts).
Push the round whitish ceramic sensor back into position.
Put 2 outer body halves back together and drill out the holes (no gaskets).
Separate the 2 halves and blew out any junk from drilling.
Install rubber gaskets back carefully and put the 2 halves back together.
Use (6) 1 1/2" bolts and nuts to hold the 2 body halves together (any that fit will do).
Use a little of the Red LocTite on the bolts/nuts so it stays together.
Reinstall hoses and electric clip.
Reset codes.
Go for a drive or 3.
This sounds like a lot of work but its not. Just give it a little care and it might work for you. I spent longer figuring out what to do than actually doing it.
I do not know how long this "fixed" DPFE will last but my plan is to only replace it with the updated version from FORD. I'm going to think twice before I buy anything electrically related from NAPA again.
For those that provided opinions, assistance and diagnostics, I can only say THANK YOU!!! You know who you are and have my utmost admiration, and sincerest appreciation.
I thought somebody might be able to use this information down the road. Just remember your mileage may vary.
It worked.
After buying a new NAPA DPFE for the 98, F150,4.6L,2x4, 135K it was still throwing a constant CEL 1410. Drat!
After much diagnosis the new DPFE purchased was "suspect". So, not wanting to buy another new DPFE I decided that it was worth the effort to try to fix the old original metal boxed unit that was throwing codes 0401 and 1401.
Here's how I fixed that DPFE (sorry no pics. I thought it was total folly at the time but it worked):
The body of the DPFE is held together by 6 recessed steel rivets.
Drill rivets out enough (not from the head side) and push the rivets out with a nail punch. DONT drill all the way through the DPFE body as you will destroy some rubber gaskets you will need for reassembly.
Carefully pull apart the 2 body halves.
I noticed lots of white crud (and some black slime) in there and blocked ports.
Used appropriately sized drill bits to clear the ports. To do this set body half in soft jaws of vice, You don't have to be jeweler delicate but don't be rough either.
Carefully pull the ceramic sensor up (round white disk) and soak body halves overnight in a 50/50 water/distilled vinegar solution in a small glass bowl. A dental pic to remove any corrosion in gasket seats helps too.
I propped up the sensor (kind of standing up) and taped so electronic components never touched the weak acid vinegar solution. Be careful no electronic parts touch your acid bath. I hope that makes sense?
Rinse with fresh water and let dry completely (again, not the electrical parts).
Push the round whitish ceramic sensor back into position.
Put 2 outer body halves back together and drill out the holes (no gaskets).
Separate the 2 halves and blew out any junk from drilling.
Install rubber gaskets back carefully and put the 2 halves back together.
Use (6) 1 1/2" bolts and nuts to hold the 2 body halves together (any that fit will do).
Use a little of the Red LocTite on the bolts/nuts so it stays together.
Reinstall hoses and electric clip.
Reset codes.
Go for a drive or 3.
This sounds like a lot of work but its not. Just give it a little care and it might work for you. I spent longer figuring out what to do than actually doing it.
I do not know how long this "fixed" DPFE will last but my plan is to only replace it with the updated version from FORD. I'm going to think twice before I buy anything electrically related from NAPA again.
For those that provided opinions, assistance and diagnostics, I can only say THANK YOU!!! You know who you are and have my utmost admiration, and sincerest appreciation.
I thought somebody might be able to use this information down the road. Just remember your mileage may vary.
Last edited by trprofera; Apr 24, 2007 at 03:28 PM. Reason: terminology error (its "DPFE", not "PTFE")
I've got P0401 code and I've removed the EGR valve and cleaned it and the code is back. I haven't done anything with this sensor or the tubes connecting to it, that is my next step. My question is - my DPFE is black plastic, what's the deal with that? Should I be wanting a metal one?
'02 F150, 4.2L, V6
'02 F150, 4.2L, V6
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Originally Posted by waterman308
Ok - but what does DPFE stand for and what is it's function? Inquiring minds want to know 

The Differential Pressure Feedback EGR System Monitor is an on-board strategy designed to test the integrity and flow characteristics of the EGR system. The monitor is activated during EGR system operation and after certain base engine conditions are satisfied. Input from the ECT, IAT, TP and CKP sensors is required to activate the EGR System Monitor.
It's very common for these to go out on these trucks -
I gotta good one - , mine is stock - since 7/98. ( :
If you like pictures more than words , go here and check out some great illustrations -
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egrmonitor.htm
Last edited by jbrew; Apr 25, 2007 at 09:21 AM.
Originally Posted by kentwindham
I've got P0401 code and I've removed the EGR valve and cleaned it and the code is back. I haven't done anything with this sensor or the tubes connecting to it, that is my next step. My question is - my DPFE is black plastic, what's the deal with that? Should I be wanting a metal one?
'02 F150, 4.2L, V6
'02 F150, 4.2L, V6
Last edited by jbrew; Apr 25, 2007 at 09:11 AM.
Heres more info and how you can trouble shoot.. -
Once activated, the EGR System Monitor will perform each of the tests described below during the engine modes and conditions indicated. Some of the EGR System Monitor tests are also performed during on demand self-test.
The differential pressure feedback EGR sensor and circuit are continuously tested for opens and shorts. The monitor looks for the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR circuit voltage to exceed the maximum or minimum allowable limits.
The DTCs associated with this test are DTCs P1400 and P1401.
The EGR vacuum regulator solenoid is continuously tested for opens and shorts. The monitor looks for an EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit voltage that is inconsistent with the EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit commanded output state.
The DTC associated with this test is DTC P1409.
The test for a stuck open EGR valve or EGR flow at idle is continuously performed whenever at idle (TP sensor indicating closed throttle). The monitor compares the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR circuit voltage at idle to the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR circuit voltage stored during key on engine off to determine if EGR flow is present at idle.
The DTC associated with this test is DTC P0402.
The differential pressure feedback EGR sensor upstream hose is tested once per drive cycle for disconnect and plugging. The test is performed with EGR valve closed and during a period of acceleration. The PCM will momentarily command the EGR valve closed. The monitor looks for the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor voltage to be inconsistent for a no flow voltage. A voltage increase or decrease during acceleration while the EGR valve is closed may indicate a fault with the signal hose during this test.
The DTC associated with this test is DTC P1405.
The EGR flow rate test is performed during a steady state when engine speed and load are moderate and EGR vacuum regulator duty cycle is high. The monitor compares the actual Differential Pressure Feedback EGR circuit voltage to a desired EGR flow voltage for that state to determine if EGR flow rate is acceptable or insufficient. This is a system test and may trigger a DTC for any fault causing the EGR system to fail.
The DTC associated with this test is DTC P0401.
DTC P1408 is similar to P0401 but performed during KOER Self-Test conditions.
The MIL is activated after one of the above tests fails on two consecutive drive cycles
Once activated, the EGR System Monitor will perform each of the tests described below during the engine modes and conditions indicated. Some of the EGR System Monitor tests are also performed during on demand self-test.
The differential pressure feedback EGR sensor and circuit are continuously tested for opens and shorts. The monitor looks for the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR circuit voltage to exceed the maximum or minimum allowable limits.
The DTCs associated with this test are DTCs P1400 and P1401.
The EGR vacuum regulator solenoid is continuously tested for opens and shorts. The monitor looks for an EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit voltage that is inconsistent with the EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit commanded output state.
The DTC associated with this test is DTC P1409.
The test for a stuck open EGR valve or EGR flow at idle is continuously performed whenever at idle (TP sensor indicating closed throttle). The monitor compares the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR circuit voltage at idle to the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR circuit voltage stored during key on engine off to determine if EGR flow is present at idle.
The DTC associated with this test is DTC P0402.
The differential pressure feedback EGR sensor upstream hose is tested once per drive cycle for disconnect and plugging. The test is performed with EGR valve closed and during a period of acceleration. The PCM will momentarily command the EGR valve closed. The monitor looks for the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor voltage to be inconsistent for a no flow voltage. A voltage increase or decrease during acceleration while the EGR valve is closed may indicate a fault with the signal hose during this test.
The DTC associated with this test is DTC P1405.
The EGR flow rate test is performed during a steady state when engine speed and load are moderate and EGR vacuum regulator duty cycle is high. The monitor compares the actual Differential Pressure Feedback EGR circuit voltage to a desired EGR flow voltage for that state to determine if EGR flow rate is acceptable or insufficient. This is a system test and may trigger a DTC for any fault causing the EGR system to fail.
The DTC associated with this test is DTC P0401.
DTC P1408 is similar to P0401 but performed during KOER Self-Test conditions.
The MIL is activated after one of the above tests fails on two consecutive drive cycles
Last edited by jbrew; Apr 25, 2007 at 09:21 AM.
Originally Posted by jbrew
Nah, just a replacement, yours is bad . I wouldn't go to any auto supplier for one. Ford recently updated these sensors that can only be had at the dealerships - Third party suppliers might give you a bad one , so go to the dealership and purchase from them..
Originally Posted by trprofera
Ditto that! I will only go to the dealer for this part. Buying a new one from a 3rd party parts provider caused me much grief thinking that it couldn't be this part causing that CEL 1401. Sometimes the dealer part is the way to go.
You pulled yours apart
This sounds like something I would do
Buutttt, I haven't yet. Mannnn, you do something like that again, take some pics - This is good chit !!! Way to go
You no how to post pics yet ? Got a digital camera? PC or MAC ? On a Mac you can run automator and program to do the necessary steps, you don't need to do sh^t..
Last edited by jbrew; Apr 25, 2007 at 09:42 AM.
jbrew,
thanks for the info on the DPFE. the more I know, the more I'm sure something isn't working right and I need to FIX it
2nd, your comment about automator on the Mac - I've got the iMac and love it. Never used automator. Can you give a brief explanation on how to set that up? You can PM me if you don't want to take the thread down a rabbit hole.
thanks.
thanks for the info on the DPFE. the more I know, the more I'm sure something isn't working right and I need to FIX it

2nd, your comment about automator on the Mac - I've got the iMac and love it. Never used automator. Can you give a brief explanation on how to set that up? You can PM me if you don't want to take the thread down a rabbit hole.
thanks.
I'll PM yuh if this gets to involved but really its not that bad - I guess the best advice would be to have mac help assist you . Basically just pasting all web addy's in a row and sync with automator..
IMAC's are sweet , I started with a IMAC G3 back in 99 - I use PC's for GPS applications @ work..
I had a 20" Imac a couple years ago before I gave it to my brothers kid and use this one now - G5 quad 2seven liquid cooled 30" ..

I went thru a few keyboards since joining this site - Some of these guys crack me up - Don't read this stuff right after taking a drink!!!
IMAC's are sweet , I started with a IMAC G3 back in 99 - I use PC's for GPS applications @ work..
I had a 20" Imac a couple years ago before I gave it to my brothers kid and use this one now - G5 quad 2seven liquid cooled 30" ..

I went thru a few keyboards since joining this site - Some of these guys crack me up - Don't read this stuff right after taking a drink!!!


