were u able to port the complete runners or just the ends?

 

Oops.... guess I didn't make it past page one LOL!!!

Send me to the corner with the dunce cap on LOL

-Joe

 

Pardon my ignorance but i hate two questions at the moment, what's the point or gain to be had with a ceramic coated timing cover? Is it just for looks or is there a specific benefit to having one?

Also the black paint looks good, but will it hold heat too much?


All in all it looks good man, keep on truckin.

 

I'm not sure what neal's motivation was other than uniformity, but I can think of a few:

A) Less thermal conductifity, keeping the heat in the oil instead of radiating it under-hood.
B) Oil that gets flung around inside it runs off the ceramic better than the Aluminum --> faster oil return to the sump.
C) Looks schweet!!
D) Neal has nothing better to do with is time and money.
E) Neal likes to brag. I can hear it already... "Yeah, but I've got a ceramic coated timing cover and pistons, polished my crank, Hi-torque muffler bearings... this baby's HOT!!"

That's all I can think of....

-Joe

 

Great post NEAL. Keep it coming. I think a turbo in my truck is in the planning stages. I am waiting to see how everyone else does it first.

 

Neal,

Your truck is going to be crazy. Im sure your going to love it when your done. You can pull up to any L and waste him (or Z06, SRT-10 ect), the look on the other drivers face would be priceless. Definatly a good sleeper. Cant wait to see the results

31C

 

HI!... FASTER150 : No I couldn't get up the runners far enough to do the entire intake runner. I got as far as I possible could. Some of the runners had some pretty wicked casting flash and seams in there. The point was mostly to match the intake manifold with my FOX LAKE's CNC porting and to basically clean it up for airflow the best I could.

 

HI!... PONY DRIVER : I Ceramic Coated the timing chain cover basically just for looks. If it helps get rid of a bit of heat... well that's a bonus. It was purely cosmetic. Got to have some *BLING* under the hood! LOL!

As for the black painted parts. Heat is not concern. There only pulleys, brackets and engine mounts. The oil pan is powder coated black, not painted. Still looks like factory finish. So many people are worried about the black paint, yet no one talks about all these guys rebuilding these Modular engines and painting the blocks black. All I can say is YUK! Looks tacky. I'm going my traditional dark FORD matching blue for my block. Give it some colour.

 

Thanks for the answer, bling is almost always good.

Edited cause I can't speel.

 

HI!... Just wanted to post some side by side pics. The pump on the left is a FORD factory COBRA high volume pump. The pump on the right is the MMR (Modular Mustang Racing) high volume/high pressure blueprinted pump with CRYO-TREATED GEARS and "O" ringed oil passage. Notice that they machined the back of the pump to get rid of casting flaws and make it perfectly square and flat.

 

Neal: I hope you and JMC are enjoying Molson Export while you two are doing that build (my fav suds when im in Canada). And the pic of that head job is making me wonder what my wife is doing wrong lmfao! great pics guy!

 

Looking at those parts is better than Internet ****!!

 

 

u should add in some bikini women when u take thes pics... we'd be in heaven

 

HI!... Harley#356 : The only hints I can tell you are :

- Remove rad (gives more room to work plus you won't accidentially damage it)

- Removing the entire intake manifold is a must! Makes lifting the engine up and out TEN times easier. Top tranny bolts are also easier to get to with the intake manifold off.

- Unbolt the center bolt from the engine mount, and the engine will lift right out. Don't remove mount from engine or from crossmember.