HI!... O.K! Now I'm done posting pics.......... for now! LOL!

 

lol yeh u post *****!! lol ur gonna crash ur image host but damn ur stuffs lookin nice!! wish i could find a job and start my modding this guy is still offering me intake manifold for 25 bucks but i aint had the extra dough to spend

 

HI!... Shlep : I have always got all my machine work done at SEIFKERS in ESSEX. Andy Seifker is a good friend of mine. Never had any problems with their work.

 

HI!... The FOXLAKE stage II heads were about $4500(CAN).

 

Thanks Neal I heard Seifker's was a good shop and I gotta say I love what you're doin with your truck

 

wow lol thats what my truck is worth... i think i'll just port my stock heads...

 

HI!... FASTER150 : Well my heads are not for a amature. They are good for a increase of 80-100H.P depending on camshaft selection. If you port your stock heads and still ise the stock cams and stock size valves you'll gain about 15H.P. It's just not worth it.

 

yeh id like foxlake heads... so ill prolly just save... but we all have our dreams just some of us have deeper pockets then others. but urs is look nice!! u still going to fabricate ur own intake manifold?

 

HI!... DEEP POCKETS! Ya right. Most of the parts you see I have been collecting for over 2 years! LOL! I will be running the modded factory intake manifold on the new engine until the T-76 turbo goes on in the spring. Then I will finally finish my sheet aluminum intake manifold I started building last year. It is more suited for the TURBO with shorter intake runners and 132MM TB.

 

sweet sounds good... well i wasnt saying u had deep pockets lol but a few of the members on here seem to.. what kinda tool did u use to hone the intake manifold and how much did it help?

 

You mean that after all that, you're running the OEM-spec crank stock?? Sheesh! After all that work?? You seriously need to look at having the crank lightened, balanced, and polished. Imagine all the free-revs gained from the moment of inertia gains!??!

If it was my engine, I'd have the rotating mass balanced to the piston/conn-rod assemblies..... I had that done to a 4-cylinder motorcycle engine, and it ran smooth like you wouldn't believe!!

-Joe

 

Awesome post Neal,
looks great, Alot of work is going in to your truck. You cleaned up the engine bay very nice. I see you like the black accessories, is that going to be too much black? Post more pic or put them in a gallery and post a link to it.

 

HI!... I used a die grinder, MASTERCRAFT Dremel, disc grinder, and many carbide bits. Getting rid of the center post and gasket matching/porting helped my top end a ton. It basically turns the dual plane set-up into almost a single plane one.

 

any chance you have a how-to handy for pulling a N/A 5.4?

i'll be pulling mine in 2 months. never pulled a motor before so i'm trying to get a feel for what i'm getting myself into here

 

HI!... GIJoeCam : If you would of read the entire thread you would see that the crankshaft is getting "WORKED" quite a bit. Stock forged steel FORD crank in the 5.4 is good for 900H.P at the flywheel. It is currently getting CRYO-TREATED and after the race prep it will be good for 1400H.P at the flywheel. It's getting lightened, knife edged, cross drilled, chamfered, balanced, and micro polished, plus a few other things I'll keep to myself currently. Also the following are also getting CRYO-TREATED :

- CROWER CAMS
- STOCK LIFTERS
- VALVE SPRINGS
- RETAINERS
- LOCKS
- TIMING CHAINS
- TIMING GEAR
- MAIN CAP SIDE BOLTS
- PISTONS
- RINGS
- PINS

Crank and EAGLE ESP rods are currently getting done as we speak. It take just over 30 hours to do the procedure. -325 degree's and then up to 425degrees and back down to room temp very, very slowly.