Are there any lessons learned or things to pay closer attention to while replacing the IAC valve on my 1994 F-150 with the 5.0

I am picking up the new valve today and would like to know if there are any tips that would help me in the process.
Thanks,
Ken

 

Anyone,?? this looks pretty straight forward, just don't want to find any unpleasant surprises....
Thanks.
Ken

 

Hey Ken, I saw your response on my post.

It is straight forward. Just be sure to clean the gasket off good and install a new one.

I had mine off and cleaned it...was not that dirty but I am going to check the volts to it tonight. I have a manual that shows some troubshotting checks so I will dig deeper...forgot I even had the manual.

Also, some say to clean the throttle body while it is open but I did not do that.

 

Thanks, got the new gasget to go with it, should be no problem.
Will let you know how it turns out.
Ken

 

1. Don't shear off the bolts.

2). Remember to hook up the connecor.

3) OPTIONAL: Perform only if needed. To accelerate the PCM's learning of idle control with the new valve, disconnect your battery and hold the brake pedal down for several minutes. Reconnect everything, restart the engine, let it idle for 30 seconds, then turn all the electrical loads possible in the next 30 seconds. Let it idle for several minutes, then go for a 10 minute drive.

Steve

 

If you going to be checking the volts then first unplug the connector to the IAC valve. Then turn the ignition switch to the on position (motor NOT running).

Measure the connector side (not the IAC valve) and you should have between 10.5 and 12.5vdc. If so then it is getting the proper voltage from the PCM.

If you want to further check the IAC valve to insure it is good then you need to do two resistance measurements on it.

First you want to measure between the two connectors on the IAC valve itself. The resistance should be between 6 and 13 ohms.

Then measure the resistance from one terminal (don’t matter which one) on the IAC valve to the valve body itself. That should read 10,000 ohms or higher.

If either resistance measurement is not as listed then you have a bad IAC valve circuit and it will not operate properly.

 

You don't say why you are pulling the valve.

FWIW, I'm not sure about the layout under the hood with the 5.0 (I have a couple of 5.4's), but the one tip I'd offer is to put a towel or rag under the valve in case you drop a bolt. If you do, you'll probably never find it, so the rag will at least slow it down.

My favorite dealership mechanic says wherever those things go is probably lined with odd socks.

 

while your in there clean the crud off on the back side of the throttle body. May even be easier to replace the IAC by taking off the throttle body first. While not as common as the IAC, a sticky throttle body blade has been known to cause propblems before.

 

Thanks all for the help. Did the job yesturday, took about 15-20 min is all. Put new gasget in as well. Definately cured the loping idle problem I was having.
Thanks again,
Ken

Happy New Year!!

 

I've just recently joined the F150online. I've been reading y'alls posts and replaced my IACvalve last nite. Same problems as kens03cobra, and it ldles right Now. Thanks!

 

Excellent use of the search function!!!!

This thread is 10 years old. But it worked for you.

Welcome to the site.