Has anyone tried using an oil stabilizer to extend oil changes or lessen the effect of the fuel in oil situation on EB engines?

 

No, don't do it.

 

Oil stabilizers are nothing more than a bottle of polymers....the same polymers that in the 90's sludge many engines until they died. Generally the EB engine will have more fuel than we get with non-DI turboed engines. You can combat that by using an oil of low NOACK or ASTM D-5800 testing. That's the oils cooking off of the lighter part of the base oil and that ends up going thru the PCV system and out the exhaust. The lowest out there by FAR is Pennzoils 10w-30 yellow bottle. NO, it's not a synthetic, it's a blend but out performs any synthetic. If your cold startups are not as low as minus 25F, the oil will be fine even during the cold winter. Most 10w oils will flow at the same as a 5w and some even as good as a 0w. But they are only tested at -25F. Check the CCS rating if cold startup is an issue for you. The lower number, the better. The fuel in analysis is by weight and most often folks like Blackstone, only calculate the fuel, not test for it. It should not go over 5% of weight of the oil. If it does, apparently the engine is seeing short heat cycles. The cure- drive it more at full operating temps to cook it off.

 

Do you know how Rotella 5w40 compares or whether this might be a good choice? Shell actually told me that it didn't meet Ford's specs for the 3.5 Eco. I do have an automotive background. I was an ASE Master Tech for 10 years, although that was 20 years ago. I was hesitate to go with the Eco Boost since I'm a hot rodder from way back. I don't like the sound of the V-6, but after researching and realizing the power it has I decided to try it. I have no experience with direct injection. So, when I checked my oil after about 2500 miles I notice a fuel smell and the oil was dirtier than I thought it should be. That's when I started checking and discovered it was because of the DI. It's very hard for me to believe this won't have a long term effect on internal parts. I also, experienced another situation I'd like to share. I just returned from towing our 35' 8,000 lb travel trailer about 1300 miles. We traveled through the Tennessee to North Carolina. On one of the hills I got behind a concrete truck that slowed to about 30 MPH. when I got a chance I pulled out to pass and the Eco Boost engine accelerated to 60 plus up the mountain like it had nothing behind it. I was impressed, but I notice when I was almost to the top the engine heat gauge was almost in the red. So, I backed off the pedal and by then I was starting down the other side. The temperature went down to normal. When I stopped for fuel I noticed the chromed tip of my exhaust was scorched. I guess from the turbos the exhaust must have gotten extremely hot. In recent years I've never had an engine create this much heat or have the engine coolant get that hot. So, I guess we need to be a more observant with this engine.

 

The Rotella does not meet Ford specs as the oil spec is for a 5w-30. Otherwise, it will work but it really doesn't get you anything except a little worse gas mileage. The engine specs a 5w-30 rather than the usual 5w-20 because of fuel dilution. Yes, these little engines build tremendous heat which is why an oil of low NOACK is important. Otherwise as the oil gets HOT, it starts to evaporate and that evaporate goes out thru the pcv. Max allowable under API and D-5800 is 15%. Most of the synthetics will be 10 or above. The Pennzoil 10w-30 is just above 4. The lower the number, the better. The Rotella 5w-40 has a D-5800 rating at 14.1%.
http://www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil10W30.html

Here's the complete test data for NOACK so you have an idea what it is. It basically heats the oil to 250C or 482F for 1 hour. It determines how much oil is left and then uses the numbers to determine what is gone. That's shown as a percentage with the max allowable at 15%. As the oil evaporates, it thickens. Fuel dilution brings it back down. Most often in analysis you'll find the oil on spec or to the thin end which will make it a 20. The engine will live just fine with a 5w-20 as long as it isn't being hammered with a heavy load or being driven like it was stolen. If you see high temps like you saw with the trailer, I'd strongly suggest once you're back home to get the oil changed. Oil shearing with these little engines can be tremendous.
http://www.pentasflora.com/wp-conten...Volatility.pdf