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Switching from 5W-30 to 10W-30 @ 37k miles > Switching from 5W-30 to 10W-30 @ 37k miles

Switching from 5W-30 to 10W-30 @ 37k miles


Old 01-04-2004, 01:03 AM
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Switching from 5W-30 to 10W-30 @ 37k miles

I was wondering if anyone here can give me some advice. I recently went to have my oil changed at a local Valvoline oil change center. Don't worry, I brought my own Motorcraft filter for them to put on instead of those crappy Valvoline filters that they carry. I usually change my own oil, but it's been pretty cold outside and I've been sick with a sinus infection the last few days. I asked the guy that worked there if they carried Valvoline Durablend 5W-30 (like I always use) and he said all they had in stock was Valvoline Durablend 10W-30. So I went ahead and told him to use that. I know that there is'nt much difference between 5W and 10W, but I just thought I'd make sure by asking here if using 10W-30 oil will hurt my engine? I can't hear any engine noises while it's running, so I think the 10W-30 oil is doing ok. And there is no valve chatter at startup on cold mornings either. Anyways, I just went over 37 thousand miles and my neighbor told me that since the engine is broken in good enough, that it wouldn't hurt it to use a 10W-30 oil with that amount of milage. I really don't like the idea of using a 10W oil in the winter time, but that was the only choice I really had, except for doing it myself. And crawling up under a truck when it's 25-30 degrees outside just isn't my cup of tea! I'm going to do my own oil changes during the Spring, Summer and Fall. But I was just curious to know whether or not it's ok to go ahead and take my truck to the Valvoline qwik lube in the winter months and use their 10W-30? It sure would help if I could get by with that. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for listening.
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Old 01-04-2004, 05:41 AM
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I've run it in my truck before with no problems because thats all they had too. Also I think the older v6s called for 10w30 and thats what a lot of people run in the newer ones, in fact I hear some dealerships put 10w30 in them too. The only reason I don't run a 30 weight is due to the milage decrease, but is it better to run a 5w20 dyno or a 5w30 synthetic? The 30 just provides more protection ones its warmed up doesn't it?
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:10 AM
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The 20 or 30 means at "operating temperature" the oil will act like a 20- 30W oil. So, you'll get a little better milage with the 20 than the 30. And the 5W or 10W means that is the weight of the oil on "cold start-up". Meaning a 5W oil will flow better on cold start-up and get to upper engine components quicker than a 10W oil because the 5W is a thinner oil. That's the best I can describe it. As to the advantage of synthetic over dino oil, I'm sure the synthetic may offer a little better lubrication for your engine. But the only advantage I really see for synthetics is the extended drain intervals like every 5000-7500 miles. A good quality dino oil will do just as good as a synthetic, but you have to change your oil more often like every 3000 miles. So back to your original question about which oil is better a 5W-20 dino or 5W-30 synthetic? I'd say that either oil will do just as good as the other. But it's up to you whether you want to have the benifits of extended drain intervals of a synthetic, or to use a dino oil and change your oil every 3000 miles. Oh and thanks for the help on the 10W-30. If your truck did ok with it, I'm sure mine will too. Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-04-2004, 05:30 PM
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Peacemaker,what year is your truck? Ive been running 10W30 in mine since I bought it used with 62k miles.I use Chevron Supreme dino. My understanding is 10W30 is good down to 0*.Where do you live? Does it get colder then 0*? Check this website out;

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Old 01-04-2004, 07:29 PM
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Thanks for the link. I think I've read that before. My truck is a 2001. If 10w-30 protect down to zero, I'm ok then. Because it rarely gets that cold here in Harrogate, TN. We may see a few days that get that cold, but not to often.
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:20 AM
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The 10W30 will not harm your engine.

The 5W30 or 5W20 will allow your engine to get slightly higher fuel mileage and will improve (slightly) oil flow at cold engine startup.

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Old 01-22-2004, 12:23 PM
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I have been using 0w20 Mobil 1 in my 2001 V6, but I have read research that indicated that particular wgt of Mobil 1 is barely doing the job...I really never felt too safe with it anyway, and I have used Valvoline oils sing I was a young guy.

I decided to switch to Valvoline Durablend 5w30 at the next change...I am considering 10w30 for the summer. I guess I am from the old school that believes that a little heavier oil provides better protection. Although, I would never use a 20w50...

I read someplace the other day that Ford recommends the 5w20 in the new v6's, but 5w30 and 10w30 are also ok...since the V6 is the old overhead valve design, the 5w20 oil is more critical in the overhead cam 4.6 and 5.4 V8's...
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Old 01-22-2004, 01:39 PM
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I decided to switch to Valvoline Durablend 5w30 at the next change
Just wondering, why would you want to change from Mobil 1 to a blend besides the $$ savings? Blends are not worth the price increase over a conventional oil, from what I've read.
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Old 01-22-2004, 01:58 PM
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A friend works for Conoco-Phillips. He had reviewed the oil specs for several oils, both synthetic and dino, and determined that Mobil 1 5w30 and 10w30 are good, but the 0w20 is pretty weak in several areas of protection (please don't ask me to elaborate, as I don't understand it all...but I think he does).

He strongly feel that most of the blends are not a great as the advertising says they are, but there is some significant benefits to the semi-synthetics.

Again, as a long time user of Valvoline, I often find Durablend on sale for $1.98 a quart (so Ibuy a few cases), where regular Valvolline is $1.69 or more...so for a few extra pennies I get a little (though it might be a very littel) extra protection.

According to Dan, while the blended oil may not be that much greater than the dino oils, the synthetics are really overpriced for the extra protection they provide.

For example, Mobil 1 is supposed to not flash until it reaches 400 degrees...by that time, you have greaat bearing protection but an aluminum block is warped out of shape...

The idea is that most of us will never come cloe to needing or using the potential that some of the synthetics provide...
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