4.6 Manual Anybody?
 

Just took delivery of my new 2000 4x2 Reg Cab 4.6 V8 with a manual tranny and I don't know if it's just me, but the clutch seems to be a little on the weak side for an engine/truck of this size. There is sometimes a slight shudder as I'm releasing the clutch, and it feels like the truck is a little too big and heavy for the clutch. Is this just me, or what? I've been driving manuals all my life, but then I've never had a truck this size before. Is it possible the clutch needs adjustment? Or is this typical?

Pete

Sorry but from what I have read in some of the old posts the clutch IS weak for a full size truck.
There was even some discussion about it being the same one they use in the Ranger.

Thanks for that information, 54RegCab. Good to know.

Pete

The clutch is not the same one that is used in the ranger. I believe its an 11.5 or 12" disc, at least as large as that used on the old 302. It took a while for me to get the feel of this clutch too. I've got 36K on mine and no problems so far. Don't forget to change the gearbox oil frequently, this will extend the life of the gearbox. You may want to consider changing to synthetic atf in the box, it helps especially in cold weather.

I also have the 5spd. Yes the clutch is a little wimpy. It's nice for the wife to drive! hahaha. Anyway. I have mine in the shop right now getting the syncros replaced. I was shifing like crap. After the repair I am getting for to put Synthetic back in. It should shift like a dream afterward.

BTW: I only have 20,000 miles on the OD.

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Lube-Direct

I know what you mean about the clutch it does seem very wimpy. Anyway I have almost 40k on my truck and no problems with the clutch. I'm just a little bit warry of what I can do for more power b/c I know the clutch won't hold up. I'd love a s/c or aluminum heads but I know it couldn't handle the added power.

Pete. The clutch should do fine. The hydraulics make it very easy to operate. Now the trans is a hole nother situation. It's a mazda unit. After the first 2-3k, change the fluid. You'll notice some metal filings. Fill it with synthetic atf and drive it for another several k and change it again. After the second change you should be good for quite awhile.

Just a heads up. I went to my dealer and told them my rearend was noisey. They told me they couldn't recreate the problem. I checked the rear and it took 2 quarts to top it off. The dam thing only takes 3. Since then I changed the fluid in everything.

Henry.

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99 F-150 XL 4x4. RC Flareside 4.6 5spd, 3.55LS. gibson 3" cat-back, K&N Gen ll.Westin step bars.Ventshade window deflectors and bug deflector. rhino liner and a cool white shifter ball.

Pete,

Try bleeding your clutch hydraulic system. I remember a post a while ago where the member got ALOT of air while bleeding it. I had nothing to do the other day and went for it. Sure enough, there was air in the line. I took me 6 attempts to get all of the air out. My clutch never felt weak before, and it feels about the same now. It just makes me wonder about my brakes. Maybe you should try it??? Just make sure you replace the fluid with dot3 or dot4. Dot5 is silicone based and will not mix.

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1999 F150 4x4 XLT BLACK ORP 4.6 5 SPEED 3.55
LUND HOOD SHEILD
K&N
FLOWMASTER SERIES 40
PREMIUM SOUND W/CHANGER
PIONEER 6815's(for now)
SUPERCHIP
AIRBOX MOD

The OEM clutch is just fine for normal driving. Please keep in mind that for the the fist few 100 miles the clutch disk will want to "grab" or "chatter". This is normal, and will function well once the flywheel and pressure plate are "worn-in".
Please note the 5-speed transmission and transfer case both call for ATF fill. Mercon is somewhat thinner than a 10W oil. So a typical 75W gear oil will be too thick at cold tempratures.
I have used a synthetic 0W gear oil and with excellent shifting and improved milage.

I disagree on the shudder when new.

If the fluid level is full, consider bleeding. start with a gravity bleed, and then do a two person bleed.

Mine is currently getting a new slave cylinder, disk, pressure plate, and an inspection of the syncros.

I am hoping the part numbers have been updated, but I still have an additional 12/12 warranty.

Maybe allthis explains the grinding of the gears!

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'98 4.6 5-sp F-150
We've come for your Tundra.

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[This message has been edited by crash1 (edited 02-04-2000).]

I have never experienced a shudder when new.

I just got rid of my 92 Ranger(90K miles) and it would shudder like mad when it was cold. I thought that is was going out on me.

I would have it looked at for sure if it is shuddering like you say.

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Lube-Direct

Well, I got a 5sp, almost 53,000 miles now, and still the original clutch. It's far from weak. It can handle first gear without gas (though you definitely need the right touch). My guess is any shuttering going on is from releasing the clutch too fast w/o enough gas.

Well, I got a 5sp, almost 53,000 miles now, and still the original clutch. It's far from weak. It can handle first gear without gas (though you definitely need the right touch). My guess is any shuttering going on is from releasing the clutch too fast w/o enough gas.

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97F150 XLT SC 4x4 Flairside 4.6 V8 5sp Dk Toreador Red, 3.55LS
ARE tonneau cover, p255/70rx16 tires (came w/235), Superchip
Pioneer CD w/4 Polk Speakers, skid plates
bed liner, side window deflectors, reese hitch, K&N air filter
40s-2chamber Flowmaster, Bosch +4 spark plugs, rustproofing
Better Built Stainless nerf bars