And it seems that I'm part of the club also, 3 weeks ago I lost OD, but if I turn it off it works fine. I decided to try this after reading the thread a couple of times.

Surprise Surprise!!!...Everything was OK, the snap ring is not broken and everything seems to be right and in the correct place.

Any Idea/suggestion what can it be?

 

I was hoping that the broken OD serve ring was my problem as well. When i dropped my valve body the OD retaining ring and E clip were intact and the OD servo itself looks fine. I went ahead and took the plate of the valve body and did not see any broken pieces of anything anywhere. I did not remove the OD servo but did put the jack on it and it moves up and down just fine (i wanted to make sure the spring wasnt broke).

Ive seen a few others in this thread post that they had no broken OD servo ring as well and asked if there could be another issue but havent seen any additional input beyond that.

I did not check the OD band since i did not remove it but is it possible it somehow came off and i just need to re-engage the OD servo with the band or is that not likely?

I forget what all the long rod/piston things are that go into the valve body from the side but they all seemed to move fine except one seemed to get slightly stuck. I removed it and the springs and everything looked fine and when i put it back in it moved freely again.

I am now thinking about the Sonnax Sure Kit kit and wondering if that could potentially help me. Any additional input before i drop the valve body again?

By the way, after putting everything back together its just as it was before, no OD but if i turn OD off i can drive just fine but at higher RPMs and lower MPG :-(

Also, i started with 4 qts of ATF fluid and ended up needing about 10-11.

 

Since I did find nothing at the end I went to a trans workshop, It comes out that the band for 3rd and 4rd(Overdrive) were burned. I saw all the parts and indeed were in really bad shape, so they had to rebuild the transition.

 

I just wanted to thank everyone on this thread. Seriously, thank you! I lost my OD and my flexplate got chewed up from the previous owner, so I had to drop the entire trans. Everything went relatively smoothly b/c of this thread. I replaced rear main seal, flexplate, OD servo clip, OD piston with double o-rings(made the truck shift remarkably smoother), and rear trans. extension housing gasket/seal. The only problem i had was with the torque converter. Make sure to open the access hole on the driver's side of the trans. in order to remove the torque converter before removing the trans. Also, when reinstalling the trans., make sure the torque converter is in the trans as deep as possible. Then, pull the trans to the engine lining up the converter screw to the holes using that opening. Once lined up, finish tightening up the transmission before tightening the torque converter. If you screw the torque converter on first, it will pull away from the trans and act like its locked up when you try to start it.

 

Congrats on getting it all fixed. Awesome!

If you did what you say in that last sentence then you are REALLY lucky that everything still works. I preach the heck out of making sure that the torque converter is fully seated inside the transmission before installation and then only hand tightening the transmission until it's seated to the block. If it seems like there is any resistance then stop and see if you can wiggle the torque converter. If not then take it back out and re-seat the converter. Once you have the transmission in place and hand tight then again make sure you can wiggle the converter. If not then take it back out and re-seat it. Repeat as needed until the transmission is seated and the converter is free to wiggle within the confines of the bolt holes on the flexplate.

If you fail to do this and continue to tighten it all down and try to start the vehicle you are about 99% sure to mess up the converter, pump or both. I have even had people break their transmission bellhousing in this process. Getting one to tighten all up unseated and try to start the vehicle without damage is very rare. Gods and angels were involved there.

D

 

Thanks man. Apparently i was really lucky. When i tried to turn it over and heard "ca-chung" i began taking the trans. apart again.

 

for those that the ring wasnt broken and have the same problem.
the band might be gone.
the overdrive band is easy to replace but the tranny need to be taken out
the band is one of the first part to be taken apart.

 

We bought the big clip, and then got the transmission apart and it was the small clip that was broke. Does anyone have the part number for that? Or what part number do we need to get the entire servo? It's a 2004 F-150 5.4 FX4 4wd

 

I would replace the whole servo. Where are you located?

D

 

We are located in BFE Arkansas. When I looked up the part number from above for the servo, it was just a cap that didn't have the rod with the clip in it.

 

Hey guys – I’m looking for some detail knowledge on valve body operation. I, like many of us, lost overdrive. I found all the pieces thanks to comments from the entire community but seems I missed something or placed something in the wrong spot putting it back.

When in (D) the truck jumps/kicks/bucks in first gear. The truck runs fine in (1) (2) (R) but not (D). This issue in (D) only seems to affect first gear. I can push it in (D) after getting up to speed in (1) or (2) and everything seems to work okay. I have overdrive back and the rest of the gears are shifting – just apparently not the first gear. Also when I first started the truck and put it in (D) it jumped/kicked/bucked without stepping on the accelerator. After I let the fluid cycle it only jumped after I pressed on the gas.

here are the only things I can think of that I may have screwed up.

1) The clip and spring (item 8) on the attached photo came out. I compressed the spring slid the clip into the slot. Didn’t look too closely but seemed like that was about the only one way to put it back.

2) The second gasket (1L3Z-7C155-AA ) had a minor tear about a ¼”. There wasn’t a connection between the gaskets gullys so I re used it.

3) The ball valves and cylindrical metal piece fell out (item 8). Item 8 seemed symmetrical so it didn’t seem like it should go in one way or another. The drawing on the ball valves calls them out so I don’t think that’s it.

Any insight, ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

I would start out by checking and re-checking the fluid level.

If that's not it then you are going to have to go back in. Something isn't right obviously. I wish I had more, but this type of diagnostic via the internet is a guessing game.

Always use new gaskets. Always. They're cheap.

D

 

Thanks, yeah it has enough fluid, i topped it off last night and still have the same issues. I ordered new gaskets,a-b solenoid, trans fluid as well and the sonnax sure cure kit. Going to break back into it next Wednesday. Hoping that'll do it, because not sure what else i can do.

For anyone else unsure about going into your valve body and everything that's involved - here is a hour long step by step video showing what tools you need, how to inspect, clean and reinstall the valve body. It also details the sure cure kit installation.

 

I would re-think your choice on that kit. I have had several people buy a replacement valve body after messing theirs up with that. Here is the latest one from on here.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/tr...g-forward.html

D

 

Gotchya, good to know. I'll play it by ear, hopefully i find something holding up the spools that i can attribute the jumps too. I just hate to drain the pan and put in new fluid or filter old fluid for a forth time but i guess there´s a chance that happens either way i go with it.

Didnt quite figure out what was the fix with his vavle body in that thread you linked - did you end up working on it for him/replace back the stock parts?