Mechanics conflicting, please help
#1
Mechanics conflicting, please help
Hello, thanks in advance for any help! I have a 1995 F-150 4x4 manual 4 with OD. A week ago it started making a new sound in second gear (and a little bit in high rpms in 1st gear), it sounds like a metal disc spinning freely and rubbing something (sorry I don't have a better description). It makes this sound in 2nd with or without the clutch down, it calms down if you back off the accelerator, but never goes away in 2nd.
I took it to Mechanic #1 and he said it's the synchronizer, and he wanted to replace the whole transmission since they don't do rebuilds. With my limited knowledge of trannies, this seemed vaguely plausible.
In search of cheaper price I took it to a dedicated transmission place. Mechanic #2 said it was the throwout bearing and that since the clutch was "high" replacing the clutch which comes with the new throwout bearing would take care of my problems.
So, any ideas on who's correct? If it is the clutch, how difficult would it be for someone with pretty good mechanical ability to replace it?
thanks so much!
I took it to Mechanic #1 and he said it's the synchronizer, and he wanted to replace the whole transmission since they don't do rebuilds. With my limited knowledge of trannies, this seemed vaguely plausible.
In search of cheaper price I took it to a dedicated transmission place. Mechanic #2 said it was the throwout bearing and that since the clutch was "high" replacing the clutch which comes with the new throwout bearing would take care of my problems.
So, any ideas on who's correct? If it is the clutch, how difficult would it be for someone with pretty good mechanical ability to replace it?
thanks so much!
#2
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
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A 4-speed stick in '95 would be exceptionally rare. Although it's listed as an option, I've never actually seen one after ~'90. What's the TRANS code from your door sticker?
A bad clutch wouldn't ONLY affect one gear. A bad synchronizer would only affect shifting into that gear. (I'm sure you happy to get a THIRD different opinion! )
Assuming you actually have the 5-speed Mazda M5OD-R2 (the most common stick in '95 F150s), the most likely source of the noise is SEVERE wear on the mainshaft bearings due to low fluid, ultimately caused by the 3 caps on the top cover for the shift rails. They're notorious for leaking, and they've killed MANY transmissions. Unfortunately, if it's that noisy, you're probably in for a replacement transmission.
Those caps can be seen in this diagram, but they're not numbered. The metal ones are visible on the front of the top cover in line with the uppermost #57 shift rail. The rubber one is shown at the back of the top cover near #47. Look up the back of your trans to see if there's a trail of trans fluid coming down from the top.
A bad clutch wouldn't ONLY affect one gear. A bad synchronizer would only affect shifting into that gear. (I'm sure you happy to get a THIRD different opinion! )
Assuming you actually have the 5-speed Mazda M5OD-R2 (the most common stick in '95 F150s), the most likely source of the noise is SEVERE wear on the mainshaft bearings due to low fluid, ultimately caused by the 3 caps on the top cover for the shift rails. They're notorious for leaking, and they've killed MANY transmissions. Unfortunately, if it's that noisy, you're probably in for a replacement transmission.
Those caps can be seen in this diagram, but they're not numbered. The metal ones are visible on the front of the top cover in line with the uppermost #57 shift rail. The rubber one is shown at the back of the top cover near #47. Look up the back of your trans to see if there's a trail of trans fluid coming down from the top.
#3
'92 was the last i've seen of the T-18 four speed (in a loaded eddie bauer bronc of all things), but he says OD so also gonna assume the normal five speed M5OD-R2 with a tranny code of M on the door jam sticker.
Like steve's reasons given, I'd say it's time for just a 4x4 donor tranny from a junkyard and swap it in with a new clutch and slave cylinder.
Welcome to the forum!
Adrianspeeder
Like steve's reasons given, I'd say it's time for just a 4x4 donor tranny from a junkyard and swap it in with a new clutch and slave cylinder.
Welcome to the forum!
Adrianspeeder
Last edited by adrianspeeder; 03-30-2007 at 06:52 PM.
#5
Thanks Steve83 and Adrianspeeder for your help. I'm pretty sure I have the M5OD-R2, I'll get the code tonight when I get home. So, it's sounding like I should replace both the clutch and tranny. From what I'm gathering from this forum, to do it myself without certain tools (engine lift for example) would not be advisable? What all would I need to do it right? I'm not afraid so much of the mechanics involved, just the physics if you know what I mean.
Any ideas on the cost to have this done? I was quoted $788 just for the clutch alone (with slave and throwout bearing), and will hear from the other mechanic on the tranny sometime today.
Is there a good way to know if you're getting a good tranny from a scrapyard?
Thanks again for you help!
Any ideas on the cost to have this done? I was quoted $788 just for the clutch alone (with slave and throwout bearing), and will hear from the other mechanic on the tranny sometime today.
Is there a good way to know if you're getting a good tranny from a scrapyard?
Thanks again for you help!
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#10
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You can't use an engine lift to change a trans (unless you're pulling them out together), and that aluminum Mazda is light enough for a large guy to handle alone. (Try a cast-iron trans sometime!) But you shouldn't have any trouble finding someone to rent you a floor-style transmission jack.