I have a 94 f250 with a m5r2 tranny. I had to replace the slave cylinder and clutch. That all went smooth enough, however I cannot get the stupid clutch to bleed. The master cylinder is full, and the belld screw has been open for a couple hours with nothing coming out... After pumping the petal about 30-40 times I can get a small puff of air out. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

 

The only thing i can suggest is just to keep pumping it or maybe apply some suction to the bleed screw to draw the fluid through

 

I've tried using a shop vac which did apply some suction, for a few minutes, which should be more than enough since the hose is only a couple of feet long!

 

And still nothing huh? Does your clutch fluid line just snap in? it might not be pushed in enough to open the line (grasping at straws)

 

Take the diaphragm out of the clutch MC before adding fluid.



Then follow the procedure described in this caption:

 

Don't laugh...do this everyday. Jack the rear of the truck up until the clutch master cylinder is level, or the nose of it slightly down. Use a vacuum or pressure bleeder if you have access to one. If not, let it gravity bleed for a while, then do it manually...gently. The angle of the master cylinder traps air. Don't even ask how I know....

Chad

 

Here's another trick I read somewhere: bleed it from the bottom up. Worked great on my '95 Ranger.

Get a big 'ol horse syringe and some clear tubing that will go between the syringe and the bleed valve. Suck up a syringe full of fluid and get any air out of the syringe and the tubing. Start with a empty or nearly empty reservoir, attach the syringe to the bleed valve, crack it open, and pump fluid up to the reservoir. Burps all the air right up to the top instead of trying to force it down.

Don't be surprised if it works "too good" and your clutch disengages farther from the floor than it ever did before.

 

i was doing the clutch in my 95 f150 with the m5od trans and had the same problem. it was the diaphragm... i dont know if your truck has the same but its worth a check. its almost impossible to see but if you feel inside the master cylinder resevoir, you can feel it if its there. stupid design if you ask me... at least they shouldve made it noticable...

 

I finally have made some progress... I tried using a syringe(actually a flavor injector from wal-mart) and found the brake fluid really messes with the plastic they use as it will shatter in a couple of minutes!!! Any way this did nothing. I finally took the master cylinder apart and found a grey greaseplugging the holes up. Now the haynes book says that with the bleed screw open fluid should flow freely, the only way this can happen is if the piston is pulled back farther than the retaining clip will allow.Is this right? I don't know fluid could ever flow freely with this design unless there is a small piece missing that would keep the piston from traveling forward all the way. So I finally have some clutch travel, only about 1/4 total travel though. I assume I need to just keep pumping away?

 

Crap - I forgot something important. Any time a hydraulic component is replaced, the linkage has to be "adjusted" by replacing the lever on the pedal shaft. That's probably why your MC isn't working right. It controls how far the MC piston moves. Read this caption.



There are other diagrams in that album that might be useful, so use the Prev/Next links to look around.

 

Steve83,
Thanks. I don't think this applies to my mc though as it lined up perfect with the pedal. Even with the MC out of the vehicle I could get no free flow until I removed the clip and pulled the piston past where it could normally stop. Does this make any sense??

 

Then my best guess is that the "grease" that was blocking the port is also gumming up the piston, preventing it from normal movement. I'd probably replace the whole MC & flush all the fluid (if you think there might still be ANY contamination). Something caused the rubber or plastic to degrade...