Yeah that's right. Bonehead (me) put in a new radiator and failed ot check the trans fluid after the truck had been idling a while. Tried to move it and wodnered WTF the thign revved so high and didn't move...the light finally came on, but man there was that sickening smell of a burning clutch. Oh man was it horrible. Pulled the dipstick and saw smoke coming out...all I could do was shake my head and then quickly pour in trans fluid in the hopes that it would cool the clutch off before it completely fried itself. Now, my question is this, did I totally eff things up? The trans leaked like a sieve anyway so it's not like I killed a new one if it's dead now anyway.

Next question, is it hard to put in a trans? AFAIK just takes some wrenches, trans jack hook up the harness etc? If it's not a complete PITFA my buddy and I can handle it as we're both mechanically inclined.

TIA

 

Yeah, it's probably toast. Will it engage now since you've put fluid in it?

As far as how hard, not really that hard, worst part is getting the exhaust out.

 

Yeah it seemed better after I put fluid in it, but really I just wanted to cool it down if I could. I figure it'll take a weekend with my bud and I doing it in the driveway?

 

If it is a 2x4 it should only be a few hours...

 

Thanks. It is indeed a 4X2/2WD/Peg let etc. Now, how much of the exhaust do I need to remove to accomplish this taks? That whole thing? Can I sawzall it in half at a certain point and reweld/clam/attach it later? I'm also having a hard time finding a reman trans that isn't race prepped or performance oriented.

 

You can do it with just removing the driver's side converter, unbolting the passenger's side from the manifold and letting it hang loose then after prying the trans off the block's dowel pins, rotating the bellhousing end towards the passenger's side and snaking the transmission diagonally (bellhousing at around 1:00, tailshaft at about 7) between the remaining exhaust on the passenger's side. If you really want to take the whole exhaust loose, be my guest, just be advised that a compression clamp is used to secure the right converter/Y-pipe to the rest of the exhaust, and will probably (definitely) require heat and four letter words to remove. On the Expygators, it's just a slip joint that'll come loose with PB Blaster and a few well placed hammer shots.

ETA: For remans, look to Jasper or a Ford reman unit; you'll get a 3/36 warranty with the Ford, dunno about Jasper. Be double sure to flush the lines and cooler well, and if it's a Ford unit, install the inline filter.

 

Thansk for the info. I checked the trans today, topped it off. It was the reverse clutch (?) that I nearly killed, but it still backs up. Truck is washed, waxed, and sittign in the yard with a FOR SALE sine in each window for the time being. If I don't sell it soon I'll just slap in a trans (right, like it'll just go right in! LOL) and sell it then. Thanks for all the info.

Now, is there a special way to flush the cooler? Any special cooler flush machine that only Ford has? LOL Do I need to cut the line to install an inline filter? Last one for now...what's a reman from FORD run?

 

I've always just sprayed brake clean in the external cooler and blew it out with compressed air. Did the same with the lines. Yes, you'll have to cut the return line going to the transmission and install the filter inline of it. And a Ford reman is like $2500ish I think.

 

Chit, that's all I want for the truck! Thanks again for the info.



I wonder if that price is like the one they had for the radiator? $400...bought a 2 row from AutoZone for $198. LOL