Hey all, so my wife and I have a bit of a conundrum - in that I didn't check the payload sticker of my truck before we bought it (long story, I did research on a comparable truck assuming the payloads would be comparable - I was wrong).

Long post ahead.

We need to tow a TT with the following specs:
7700lbs GVWR, 5700 dry
33'

With the following truck (options listed relevant to towing):
2014 F150 FX4 SuperCrew
3.5L Ecoboost 6 speed automatic
20" wheels (P class factory installed, 4050 RAWR)
Standard towing package (7200 GVWR)
Brake controller
Auxillary transmission cooler
36 gallon tank
Anti-sway (truck)
3.55 gears
e2 WDH w/ anti-sway
15,500 GCVWR
7,200 GVWR
4050 Rear GAWR
3750 Front GAWR
1135 payload, from door sticker

With the following payload:
485lbs of people (3 of us that could use a bit of diet and exercise)
120lbs of dog
~845lbs of tongue weight, 12% of 7,042lbs estimated actual TT weight, 917lbs @12%

Leaving us about 486lbs over GVWR, @93% of GCVWR, @98.5% of combined axle ratings of 7800. Ouch. This is with a fully loaded trailer, towing with full tanks, and 12% tongue weight. Our more realistic scenario would be 10-11% tongue weight, towing with empty tanks, and less "stuff" in the trailer. In a real world scenario with some thought about what we're packing in the trailer and how we're loading w/r/t weight distribution, especially for long drives we're probably about 386lbs over GVWR and @88% of GCVWR.

To note I have towed this setup quite well already, not realizing I was over payload/GVWR up into the mountains near Lake Tahoe (5-6+% grades both ways, +5,000 ft elevation), through some pretty windy stuff on a freeway and it towed excellently. My wife even towed her first time with this truck compared to our previous 3500 and thought it towed really well. This truck legitimately handled it wonderfully which is why I'm partially surprised it's over payload in a significant way. It could be because our trailer was nearly empty besides tanks. We just don't carry much. However I like to "prepare for the worst, hope for the best" hence this post.

First, my gripe: we have all options factory installed that are included with the Max towing package according to Ford's fleet towing guide for 2014 except for mirrors, a class V hitch, and 3.73 gears. Why in the world is there a 500lb GVWR difference? The 3.55 was plenty capable in some steep mountains and around town. My guess is they don't test extra-curricular individual options outside of major options, which means more than likely this truck can safely tow this load. I may be wrong, but it's the only thing that makes sense. Why wouldn't the GVWR go up and down depending on options? The payload does. I have been reading every f150 forum in the world (it seems like) and everyone talks about safety when going over GVWR, which is the most relevant thing there is in this discussion, but no one seems to mention why the GVWR is so static regardless of equipment, even though it can be espoused as a holy number and you'll kill your family if you go over it. [/end gripe]

So I was thinking of cutting some weight just to meet this GVWR and prevent any possible issues that could come from being over GVWR:
We have 20" wheels
Running boards
A spare tire
A tailgate step
Skid plates

According to this guide: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...Payload_SB.pdf we can cut around over 200lbs, or increase our payload around 200lbs by deleting the above options, all of which are relatively expendable. Running a mindfully packed trailer and truck with a full tank of gas that puts us around 112lbs over GVWR with all of us in the truck. My question is (and I'm hoping to spark some discussion with all of my points above): is it worth it to delete these options? I know I'm legal being over GVWR if not wise, and I'm surely not being negligent using common sense, but again prepare for the worst and hope for the best. Would you delete these options? Can you tell me your thought process either way?

Obviously we wouldn't delete the wheels but we could do 17-18" light wheels with LT class tires. That included is actually closer to 300lbs cut not 200lbs if my math is right, which it may not be.

Thanks for reading. This is about 20 hours worth of research and consideration laid out which is somewhat crazy, but I don't want to admit to the old lady I messed up on our truck recommendation too much, so I'm hoping to see what if anything you guys have to say .

My towing spreadsheet for reference: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRUJO99ttKlPUPFlyyR3nz52gQk8BkjydXca9-RbxEoV4D9eGuLh_0pKGpsrXyceONMSzoO47Fhraee/pubhtml?widget=true&headers=false

This includes the current truck and around what I'd expect the trailer to weigh. Dry wt is actually curb which is why I didn't include fuel. (GVWR-Curb = 1135# payload)

 

Confirm your situation, go get the actual numbers. Hook up the trailer, load everything and everybody up, fill the gas and water tanks, and go run over a truck scale. Add the front and rear axle weights to see just where you stand on GVWR. That should help you make a more informed decision. The more you can move into the trailer, the better off you will be.

 

I definitely will - the trailer has been in the shop for a couple weeks (post break-in stuff) so I can't go check until they're finished. I updated my post with the towing spreadsheet I used to get these numbers so I should be relatively close. It's mostly the trailer weight of options and load that would be off. I'm using averages and maxes for the numbers mentioned in the post.

 

The thing is, undertow, trailer weights are pretty inexact if you just go by the "specs". glc advised you to take the setup to a CAT scale and see what loads you're putting on your axles. This will help you set up your Weight Distributing Hitch properly too. I found too, that my truck's "dry delivered" weight was higher than the "dry" weight listed (and that was before I put the bed cap on too).

Weigh things so you'll know what you're really dealing with.

The real limit you have with an F150 is the loading on the truck's axles. The 3.5 EcoBoost will pull a huge load without breaking a sweat.


- Jack

 

I would agree - as long as you aren't exceeding the GAWR front and rear, over GVWR is not that big a deal as long as it's not crazy over. It's not worth stripping parts off it. Something simple would be throwing the spare inside the trailer.

I do think that you may have the wrong wheels and tires for towing. Towing that heavy I'd prefer a LT-rated tire with a taller sidewall rather than a P-metric. I'd probably go with an 18, no wider than a 60-series, with the same height as the stock tires.

 

OK thank you for your guys' input. I'll get the rig and the trailer to a CAT scale as soon as I get the opportunity.