Overheating ecoboost when towing
#91
07-30-2018, 10:57 PM
Just because your max tow rating is 11600, that doesn't mean you can "legally" tow that much. It is extremely likely that you are exceeding the TRUCK gross vehicle weight rating. When you go to the CAT scale, add up the front and rear truck axle weights, and I'm betting they are over GVWR. There's also a max GAWR for each axle. You also may be over GCWR - total weight of the truck and trailer.
The max tow rating is with a driver but NO cargo or passengers.
The max tow rating is with a driver but NO cargo or passengers.
#92
07-31-2018, 08:57 AM
#93
07-31-2018, 09:37 AM
Truck capacity
I'm on the road 4 days on and two off enforcing DOT regs in MA for a living. I'm well versed in GVWR, GAWR and GCWR.
My truck as equipped will tow 11,300lbs. It's at its max and I know the max limit is set by the manufacturer for a reason. It's the max you can expect your vehicle to safely tow. I've blown tires on the trailer and truck before after hitting an unavoidable object. If you know how to manage the wheel, you can control to a stop safely. Even at highway speeds.
I've been on the truck squad now for more than 15 years and we typically refer to manufacturer specs. The reason is, many vehicles under one ton do not list GCWR on their decals leaving us at a disadvantage. I could cite someone and have them towed when in all legitimacy, they are within the capabilities because the GCWR isn't listed on the decal.
Typically from an enforcement standpoint, I'm only getting involved with a non-commercial vehicle if they are speeding, they have trailer sway or it's grossly obvious that they are overloaded, or if there's an accident.
I get teased all the time, asking if I'm filming a Ford Commercial towing my tractors as I have the two on the trailer. I know I'm safe because I know my limits and my vehicle and trailer limits.
My truck as equipped will tow 11,300lbs. It's at its max and I know the max limit is set by the manufacturer for a reason. It's the max you can expect your vehicle to safely tow. I've blown tires on the trailer and truck before after hitting an unavoidable object. If you know how to manage the wheel, you can control to a stop safely. Even at highway speeds.
I've been on the truck squad now for more than 15 years and we typically refer to manufacturer specs. The reason is, many vehicles under one ton do not list GCWR on their decals leaving us at a disadvantage. I could cite someone and have them towed when in all legitimacy, they are within the capabilities because the GCWR isn't listed on the decal.
Typically from an enforcement standpoint, I'm only getting involved with a non-commercial vehicle if they are speeding, they have trailer sway or it's grossly obvious that they are overloaded, or if there's an accident.
I get teased all the time, asking if I'm filming a Ford Commercial towing my tractors as I have the two on the trailer. I know I'm safe because I know my limits and my vehicle and trailer limits.
#94
07-31-2018, 09:39 AM
#96
08-25-2018, 07:07 PM
Same issue with the new used 2012 F-150 we just purchased
We are having the overheating issue when towing are travel trailer. fully loaded the trailer only weighs 5800 lb. Whenever pulling a grade we register hot and get the red engine overheat warning light. Bought the truck (2012. Heavy payload with the max tow package on it) to pull our trailer so you can imagine my disappointment when it started to overheat. Took it to our local mechanic. He works on a lot of Fords had never heard of the issue. Ran a test and found the 4th cylinder misfiring replaced all the plugs and the coil for that cylinder. Blow out the radiator. Test drove it today still doing exactly the same thing. Has anybody found a fix for this problem
#98
08-25-2018, 09:12 PM
#99
11-05-2018, 03:33 PM
Thanks, brdvpra - your last post tells me the gauge is still just a somewhat worthless, "feelgood", idiot pointer. If the engine is running and has warmed up, it shows midpoint (or an OK reading) but is not showing anything resembling the actual temperature. The rapid rise when the digital readout hit 250 was an ECM controlled function that told you it was going into limp mode. The ECM is supposed to provide a somewhat richer fuel mixture when the engine is under load, which helps cool things. It may not be doing that properly in the earlier model trucks, which is what makes me suggest there may be an ECM flash.
But, you were pulling a VERY heavy load up Raton! I would not be surprised to learn that your engine was getting hot for real. I think your truck is operating nearly at its limits in that situation. Going down, you're hardly producing any heat from combustion and your fans are going to be blowing at full speed. I'd attribute the rapid cooling to having electric fans that are not governed by engine speed and good engineering.
Again, the temperature you are seeing is not actually the coolant temperature. It MAY be an "inferred" coolant temperature, but the sensor is reading Cylinder Head Temperature, which is not effected by low coolant or coolant overheating. But, since you were seeing a smooth, steady rise during the heavy load period, you were experiencing actual engine overheating. It will be interesting to learn what basecamp sees using the OBD monitor when he pulls his similar load under similar conditions.
As I've posted in another thread, when I've pulled my 3500# trailer up long, 7% grades in Arizona at near 100 degree temperatures, my actual CHT did not go up according to my OBD readout. And, my transmission temperature did not change at all. My old 2005 5.4L V8 temperatures always went up significantly during similar contitions. Of course I'm not putting nearly as much stress on things as you and basecamp are, but the little Ecoboost engine is much more suited to hard work.
Still, the rapid recovery everyone has been experiencing may have been fooling me and I may have to eat my words regarding my doubts about overheating. It may indeed be caused by pulling a load at close to weight limits up steep grades. If so, the only solution (if a bigger radiator is no help) would be a SuperDuty class truck. Your posting of the actual temperatures has been very helpful. Thanks again!
- Jack
But, you were pulling a VERY heavy load up Raton! I would not be surprised to learn that your engine was getting hot for real. I think your truck is operating nearly at its limits in that situation. Going down, you're hardly producing any heat from combustion and your fans are going to be blowing at full speed. I'd attribute the rapid cooling to having electric fans that are not governed by engine speed and good engineering.
Again, the temperature you are seeing is not actually the coolant temperature. It MAY be an "inferred" coolant temperature, but the sensor is reading Cylinder Head Temperature, which is not effected by low coolant or coolant overheating. But, since you were seeing a smooth, steady rise during the heavy load period, you were experiencing actual engine overheating. It will be interesting to learn what basecamp sees using the OBD monitor when he pulls his similar load under similar conditions.
As I've posted in another thread, when I've pulled my 3500# trailer up long, 7% grades in Arizona at near 100 degree temperatures, my actual CHT did not go up according to my OBD readout. And, my transmission temperature did not change at all. My old 2005 5.4L V8 temperatures always went up significantly during similar contitions. Of course I'm not putting nearly as much stress on things as you and basecamp are, but the little Ecoboost engine is much more suited to hard work.
Still, the rapid recovery everyone has been experiencing may have been fooling me and I may have to eat my words regarding my doubts about overheating. It may indeed be caused by pulling a load at close to weight limits up steep grades. If so, the only solution (if a bigger radiator is no help) would be a SuperDuty class truck. Your posting of the actual temperatures has been very helpful. Thanks again!
- Jack
Has anyone come up with any ideas on how to cure this yet? I was looking at my setup when changing the oil and I think I have some thing that might work. I think we agree the intercooler is sending to hot of air to the engine which is causing the overheating? I saw a chart on one of these posts illustrating the air entering the engine was over 190F when pulling on a grade. What if we installed a Water to Air Intercooler after the factory intercooler. If we used a barrel style or style the keeps the flow in the same direction, there is plenty of room in the tube flowing from the intercooler to the engine. A bracket to the radiator support could be made to support the intercooler's weight. The heat exchanger and pump could be placed on the skid shield on the driver side behind the tranfer case. There is room for it. The top hose could be routed towards the air box on the driver side with a fill port installed. I have to assume getting the intake charge closer to ambient temps would have to help this a lot. Thoughts? Let me know if i'm off base here.
#100
11-05-2018, 05:59 PM
Long story short my truck had the overheating issue only one pulling our travel trailer. Have your mechanic look there is a PCM computer download for the fuel mapping under a load period when after doing a shotgun Approach at the repairs my mechanic thought this was the fix that took care of the problem
#101
07-01-2019, 04:10 PM
F150 overheating
I am just North of you in Idaho. I have 2013 Ecoboost with the Max tow as well. I had the same thing happen pulling over horseshoe bend hill out of Boise. I was pulling about 8000 lbs. It seems anytime it has a load with an extended length of boost on the turbos it can't dissipate the heat produced by the turbos. I love how it pulls except the heat issue. I took it in Yesterday and received the same reply you did. Ford is investigating the issue but they have no fix. Check back every month to see if there is a resolution.
I am with you. I absolutely love this truck except this overheat issue. It pulls like crazy and is awesome to drive. But like I told the dealer this truck is great except I can't use it. Hopefully something comes out soon to remedy it. Lets keep it alive on these forums so if ford happens to be looking at them they see this is a real problem. Not just a fluke a few of us have.
I am with you. I absolutely love this truck except this overheat issue. It pulls like crazy and is awesome to drive. But like I told the dealer this truck is great except I can't use it. Hopefully something comes out soon to remedy it. Lets keep it alive on these forums so if ford happens to be looking at them they see this is a real problem. Not just a fluke a few of us have.
I took a trip of 2700 miles to Grand Canyon, Phoenix, Az, and Calif.
First instance of overheating was between Wells, Nv and Wendover, Nv. Truck cooled down quickly when I pulled over.
Second instance was longer uphills between Wendover, Nv. and St. George, Utah., The truck would overheat and cool down quickly when I slowed down.
I observed that the truck overheated only when turbo boost was over 25%. (gauge shows 0 to 20 lbs.)
I found that if I nursed the truck by using lower gears and higher rpm I could keep it out of boost most of the time and go up hills at 40 to 45 MPH in 4th or 5th gear.
When I got home I spent some time with a mechanic friend with experience with cars and truck with turbo.,
His explanation is the the half ton truck is not really designed to tow heavy loads. The max tow package is rated up to 12,000 lbs, but only works well on flat ground.
Possible fix: Install a larger radiator. possibly one intended for the V8.
Possible fix: trade for GMC or Chevy with 5.4 liter V8.
Best fix: If you are towing 10,000 lbs, get a 3/4 ton truck with either V8 or diesel.
The Dodge with the Cummings diesel works good.
#105
07-22-2019, 01:46 AM
Fixed?
Long story short my truck had the overheating issue only one pulling our travel trailer. Have your mechanic look there is a PCM computer download for the fuel mapping under a load period when after doing a shotgun Approach at the repairs my mechanic thought this was the fix that took care of the problem
2013 here, only 5,000 miles on engine installed that had 60k miles. Towing up to 9,114' elevation with about 3,000' gained in about 4 miles at 40mph on two different climbs in Eastern Utah. Same issues as everyone else, radiator, water pump, thermostat all changed during engine swap. Old engine heated up slightly but nothing like this. After reading this thread I changed muffler to high flow and rerouted trans cooler to electric fan operated unit and still no better. Trailer is 27' about 5,200 lbs dry.
My ford mechanic changed engine as a side job and he thought the remapping was not going to make a difference, so I did other two steps first. I had heater cranked and about 240 on the obd before cresting the summit, never had limp mode.
Pretty frustrated like everyone else, so willing to try anything reasonable at this point.