Adding zerks to ball joints ?
Adding zerks to ball joints ?
Can zerks be added to balljoints on '07 ?
I have AS 2" leveling kit and i *think* that's causing the squeaking.
I've added grease to the boots using a grease needle but the squeak came back.
I'd like to know if I can drill a hole, thread and install zerk fittings on upper and lower ball joints.
thanks !
I have AS 2" leveling kit and i *think* that's causing the squeaking.
I've added grease to the boots using a grease needle but the squeak came back.
I'd like to know if I can drill a hole, thread and install zerk fittings on upper and lower ball joints.
thanks !
I'm pretty sure you can. I am looking at the Moog ball joints that I haven't installed, yet. It looks like they just tapped a hole in the very center of the top and you screw the zerk into it. It might be easier to order the Moogs, though.
If I still had my OEM BJs, I would install zerks. The issue is shavings getting inside of the boot. Not sure how much damage those small shavings would cause, but installing the zerks is easy.
Come to think of it, I am installing zerks into my lift shackles in the spring. They're starting to squeak too.
Come to think of it, I am installing zerks into my lift shackles in the spring. They're starting to squeak too.
You should check the ball joints first. Jack the vehicle chock rear wheels. Put jack stands under lower a arms (if you do not do this test is not valid). Put pry bar under wheel and lift up on it while watching ball joint. If the a arm moves up and the ball-joint is moving but the rest of the suspension/vehicle is not then the ball joint is bad. Next put a pry bar next to the upper in between the upper a arm and frame lift up and down if slack in ball joint it is junk. If they are squeaking they are already most likely bad. If you where to add a zerk shavings will get inside the joint and cause excess stress. If the ball joints pass then look into other steering and suspension parts by doing a dry park test
Lower the vehicle so tires are all the way on the ground weight is fully on them. Have some one move steering wheel 2-5 inches just to get slack out. Look at idler arm tie rod ends pitman arm see if there is any slack. Like the center-link is moving but the idler arm is not or tie rod end is not. Once you find the failing components replace and then go to get an alignment. If you replace steering components and do not get an alignment tire wear and poor steering/suspension performance can occur.
Lower the vehicle so tires are all the way on the ground weight is fully on them. Have some one move steering wheel 2-5 inches just to get slack out. Look at idler arm tie rod ends pitman arm see if there is any slack. Like the center-link is moving but the idler arm is not or tie rod end is not. Once you find the failing components replace and then go to get an alignment. If you replace steering components and do not get an alignment tire wear and poor steering/suspension performance can occur.
thanks for the replies, guys.
I'm going to give it a shot. Buxton, I'm pretty sure it's the ball joints. I've added grease to the boots with a grease needle and had it stop for a bit, then it came back.
One thing I'm pretty sure of is that the boots in these trucks came under greased. I had to go back and put the needle in the other side of the boot to get better coverage in there.
I'm confident that if I added zerks and added grease the old fashioned way, I'd get enough grease in there to keep the squeaking at bay.
The truck has 59k on it.
I'm going to give it a shot. Buxton, I'm pretty sure it's the ball joints. I've added grease to the boots with a grease needle and had it stop for a bit, then it came back.
One thing I'm pretty sure of is that the boots in these trucks came under greased. I had to go back and put the needle in the other side of the boot to get better coverage in there.
I'm confident that if I added zerks and added grease the old fashioned way, I'd get enough grease in there to keep the squeaking at bay.
The truck has 59k on it.


