Scale of difficulty for DIY front end work

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Old 04-09-2009, 10:20 AM
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Scale of difficulty for DIY front end work

I need to replace the following items on my front end. Vehicle 2001 F150 2WD:

Both Upper Control Arms
Idler Arm
Pittman Arm
Both Lower Ball Joints

Also, what special tools are required? Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks,

John
 
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:27 PM
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May I suggest going to your local parts store and getting a Haynes or Chilton manual for your truck. Will run you $15 to $20. As far as I know there should not be any special tools required, but the book should list everything that is needed for the job and step by step instructions. I have used them for electrical and mechanical troubleshooting/repair, it paid for itself first couple uses.
 
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:21 PM
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Tools:
* Ball joint puller, Pitman/Idler arm puller - From Napa they are FREE rentals but you need to put them on your credit card. Just for the BJ puller, I was charged $439.00 but it was completely refunded when I returned them in clean, and normal working order.
* I also recommend air tools, or GOOD hammer gun - prior to buying air tools, I bought a Craftsman electric (plug-in) 1/2" hammering gun. It was great but large and hefty. Newer models and some of the 19.2v stuff may do the job as well and are probably easier to work with.
* Hydraulic floor jack, not a POS scissor or bottle jack, a REAL floor jack. You need this to not only lift the truck, but also to compress the lower control arm so you can start unbuttoning the whole mess.
* BIG hammer

Ease:
Hard to say how easy but I always worry about guys attempting to work on front ends because of the tension the springs place on the knuckle and control arms.
In a nutshell: support the lower control arm with the jack and undo the nut from the upper ball joint but do not remove it. Unthread it until there is a small gap between the nut and the underside of the knuckle (where the nut was once tightened). Release the jack which will allow the spring tension to push up on the UCA. Take your big hammer and start pounding the vertical portion of the knuckle but NOT the BJ and NOT the control arm. The vibration from the pounding plus the tension of the spring will eventually bust the BJ loose from the tapered fitting in the knuckle. The threaded nut will prevent the whole thing from flying apart (this is the dangerous part of the whole deal). Once it has broken loose, lift the lower arm to release the tension and remove nut. Slowly lower the jack until the spring tension has been released and now you can start removing stuff.
I've used this method on every vehicle I owned and on average, it takes about 4 to 5 good pounds of the hammer to release everthing. I have NEVER used a BJ pickle fork as they tend to ruin the BJ boot, but since you're replacing them anyway, I guess its not a big deal. I still think the method above is easier and works great.

BTW, I bought my parts from RockAuto.com. Do a search for "rockauto coupon" for online coupons...could save a buck or two. I like the MOOG stuff as it's pretty heavy duty and BJs come with zerks. Replacing UCAs are a breeze, the lower BJs are a little less easy. Use the BJ press and gun as mentioned and you should be fine.
When I replaced my pittman arm on my Chevy, I didn't have a socket big enough to fit the HUGE nut. I am not sure about your truck so check it out first. I also remember that I had a cheapo pittman puller and it busted on me. Rent a heavy duty one and maybe run some PB Blaster or AeroKroil...not sure it will help, but I remember it being a bear to remove.

Good luck and post back.
 
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:01 PM
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It's not difficult you just need patience. The balljoints will probably be a PITA to get out, but much easier to put back in. Idler/pitman arms + tie rods are relatively easy though.
 
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:47 AM
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Manuals are vague and flawed

Originally Posted by mdhawkin
May I suggest going to your local parts store and getting a Haynes or Chilton manual for your truck. Will run you $15 to $20. As far as I know there should not be any special tools required, but the book should list everything that is needed for the job and step by step instructions. I have used them for electrical and mechanical troubleshooting/repair, it paid for itself first couple uses.
With all due respect, the manuals are often time too vague, lack many details and in some cases have the information wrong. Example: the Haynes book advises that the lower ball joints for my truck are a part of the lower control arm and cannot be replaced separately. This is SO wrong. The uppers are part of the control arm, not the lowers. So this is why I come here....to get real info and details.
 
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:55 AM
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Johnex1 thanks for the feedback on the manuals. I have had pretty good luck with them, but will make sure to be careful if and when I may use one again. I agree 100% this is the right place to come to for detailed first hand experience/information!!
 
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:13 AM
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if you rent the tool from autozone for the lower BJs, set it up backwards for instalation, and you dont need it for removal, just take the snap ring out and tap it out with a hammer.

The pitman/idler is very easy, just need a couple of large sockets and a puller.

UCA are pretty simple as well, just make sure if you have camber alignement bolts, or the factory alignement plates that you get it set up exactly like it was or your alignment will be out. I suggest using white out and marking a couple of spots on the plate/cam washer and on the UCA mount to make sure it gets put back the way it was.
 
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:13 AM
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Thanks for all of your help

Did the job in 4 hours on Saturday. All went well except for the item that was supposed to be easy, the pitman arm. Even with a Pitman Arm puller, it took me 45 minutes to break the old one free.

The upper arms were very easy and the lower ball joints were a little more difficult.

Yes, a heavy sledge hammer is very necessary for this job.

Thanks again.
 



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