Tie Rod Install Question

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I'm going to replace my tie rods and after looking over the procedure, it seems pretty straightforward. I have a few questions:

1. Do the wheels need to be straight when doing this, or can I turn the wheels slightly to get better castle nut access? Will turning the wheels make it harder to mount the rods?

2. Should the tie rod ends be exactly equal as far as the number of threads coming out of the adjuster sleeve? In other words, must the inners be symmetrical in length to the outers?

3. The inners are perpendicular to the ground, the outers are parallel. Should I assemble my inners/outers this way prior to mounting? If so, when should the jam nuts be torqued (prior to mounting the assembly or after the castle nuts are re-installed and fixed with cotter pins)? For that matter, should the ends be mounted first and then the overall length be adjusted by turning the sleeve and tightening the jam nuts after the ends are attached?

Any help is appreciated. I am aware that I should match, as closely as possible, the overall length of the tie rod assembly I am removing. I will get the truck aligned after the new tie rods are installed.

Mike

 

OK here is what I know:

1. Do the wheels need to be straight when doing this, or can I turn the wheels slightly to get better castle nut access? Will turning the wheels make it harder to mount the rods?
ANSWER: Before you start, measure the length from inner pivot on each end out to the tie rod ball stud. You can use a piece of string to keep distance as well. You will need this later to set up a crude alignment. AFTER that, you can position the wheels where ever you want to gain access to the jam nut and ball stud nuts.

2. Should the tie rod ends be exactly equal as far as the number of threads coming out of the adjuster sleeve? In other words, must the inners be symmetrical in length to the outers?
ANSWER: Number of threads do not matter. The new tie rod does not match your new one anyway. Side to side may vary as well. Remember step 1 above. Out ball to inner pivot dimension is what matters.

3. The inners are perpendicular to the ground, the outers are parallel. Should I assemble my inners/outers this way prior to mounting? If so, when should the jam nuts be torqued (prior to mounting the assembly or after the castle nuts are re-installed and fixed with cotter pins)? For that matter, should the ends be mounted first and then the overall length be adjusted by turning the sleeve and tightening the jam nuts after the ends are attached?
ANSWER: Again the set up length in step 1 is key. Assembly sequence should be laid out in you manual. GET the length correct and you8 should be OK.

I would still recommend an alignment at a qualified shop afterward.

Good luck.

 

X2 on the alignment. I would do the repair as close as I could to the alignment shop as I could get. Not a hard install at all, but if you are off a little bit, you will be buying new tires shortly.

 

Thank you for the information. Yes, I intend to get it aligned, so that isn't the issue (the shop is about 18 miles from me.)

Jdrozdow, what do you mean by "pivot" when you say to measure from the inner pivot on each end out to the tie rod ball stud? Shouldn't the overall length of the new assembly (end-adjuster-end) match that of the old? I am replacing both ends and the adjuster sleeve on both sides (all new), so measuring to an arbitrary point on the old assembly won't match anyway.

 

The pivot points on the center link between the idler arm and steering arm. But like you said the new components are un-worn so the dimensions will only get you close. A true full alignment would be advised.

 

Roger that. Everything is replaced and the vehicle is aligned properly, thanks again for the info.