I have 97 4.6L F150 XLT 2WD with 65K miles. I'm planning on getting my brakes/rotors looked at and or serviced soon. Would it be a good idea to just go ahead and get the shocks replaced? I thought that if shocks are bad or going bad, that can lead to suspension problems, uneven tire tread wear and possibly a whole slew of other problems I'm sure I'm not aware of. If I should just go ahead and replace the shocks, does it make sense to get something other than the standard factory stock shocks? I don't do any heavy hauling. I do tow a popup camper or my jet ski, if that has any bearing?

From what I can tell, replacing shocks seems pretty straight forward. In other words, a do-it-yourself kind of thing. Yes?


[This message has been edited by jefferydm (edited 10-11-2000).]

 

replacing the shocks is really easy. It will most likely take you about 1 hour to do all 4.

Basically once you drive a new car or truck off the lot, the stock shocks are worn. When they transport the vehicle down the assembly line and highway to the dealers, the shocks get a good workout. Unless you get a special version of a truck like the TRD or chevy Z71 with NICE shocks, I would replace them.

Also with 4wheel ABS, worn shocks can cause a lot of problems by not allowing the wheels to stay on the ground on rough roads and that can increase your braking distances.

 

Yes, this is a good do-it-yourself job. If those are original mileage shocks at 65K, it's time. My opinion is that there are aftermarket shocks available that are better than the factory units, and for a fair price. Many here like Edelbrocks, Ranchos, as well as others.

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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back,
3" exit Y-pipe, Hellwig rear anti-sway bar,
Rancho RS9000s.

 

If you want to put a smile on your face and feel like your money was well-spent:

Do 4 shocks, 4 tires and one carwash all the same day.

(seriously)

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Y2K™ Jim

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

Hey thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'm definitely going to change out the shocks (all four). I was reading up on the Edelbrocks IAS shocks. From what I've read thus far combined with the various posts I seen here, everything seems to point towards getting Edelbrocks. I just wonder if the it's really worth all the money ($69.31/shock) considering the kind of driving I do? The fact is, over half of my driving is highway travel with those roads being pretty good. Meaning there's not potholes scattered about. I don't do any 4-wheeling, or get into any real ruff terrain to speak of generally. I don't really haul heavy loads, just my popup camper and a jet ski. I'm not a cheap skate, but don't want to just spend money for the sake of it. Are there middle of the road brands? I haven't looked at those Ranchos or the Monroe Sensatrac yet.

[This message has been edited by jefferydm (edited 10-12-2000).]

 

$70 per shock? Wow! I'm with you, Jeff. I have been using the Monroe Gas ST. I had one M. Gas ST leak within a month of putting it in, warranty returned it, no problem with the replacement. I have been using the second or third line of shocks up from the bottom line, Monroe or Gabriel, for years. More Monroe than Gabriel, due to better availibilty of Monroe around here.
A tip, don't snip the plastic tie that keeps the shock compressed against the internal gas pressure, until you are underneath, and are aiming for (front)or hooked over the top (rear)shock mount. Then use muscle to slow the shock's expansion and guide in onto the bottom shock mount.
When I have taught people how to change shocks, they were always surprised when they clipped the tie, with what happened next. It's easier to guide it while expanding, then it is to get the leverage to recompress it if you aren't prepared. But either way, it's a good do it yourself job.

 

I recently put Monroe Reflex shocks on my 98 SC 2WD. The truck had 35K on it, and I had recently replaced my stock 2557016 Wranglers with 2657516 LTX AT tires. I think the need for new shocks was more obvious with the bigger tires. Anyway, the install was pretty easy and the new shocks are much better under all conditions. I could compress the factory shocks completely and they would take about 4-5 seconds to fully extend. I did this with the new ones, and they return in about 1.5 seconds. I ordered my shocks from Wrenchead.com. It took a few weeks to get them, but 4 new shocks for $125 was not a bad deal!

Good Luck,

Jim


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1998 F-150 XLT SC 5.4L

 

I have also heard the Monroe reflex shocks getting a lot of good press out there on the F150/expys.

They are MUCH cheaper than the edelbrocks for sure. Here is a link for you on some shock info:
http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...edelbrock.html
http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...ancho9000.html

 

Check out the Monroe Refelx Shocks. I installed them a few weeks ago and have been quite happy. (Supposedly) Similar performance and technology to the Edelbrocks, with a lower price tag. I did all four for $140. Check them out!

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1997 F150 XLT, Flareside , Moonlight Blue, 4x2, SC, Auto, 4.6L, 3:08, Cargo Cover by Century, Penda bed liner, Blue Oval reciever hitch plug, Driver Design bug deflector, Monroe Reflex Shocks, 235/70/16 Firestone Wilderness AT's, sliding rear window, captain's chairs, Valvoline Durablend Oil, Purolator Pure One Oil Filter, and 112,000 miles and counting!

 

Yesterday after work I got the Monroe Reflex shocks and would have been driving with them this morning if the D head at the shop I went to sold me the right ones! I suppose it's just as much my fault for not checking the part numbers. I had it written down at work, but of course left the piece of paper at work in all the excitement. I explained to the guy exactly what type of vehicle I had 97 F150 XLT 2WD etc... He still ended up giving me the ones for 4X4's (911133 & 911134). I need 911131 & 911132. Oh well....it's probably just as good. These people at this local shop I went to weren't very accommodating, to busy to give the time of day and wouldn't even honor what they had originally quoted me over the phone. So last night I went to Wrenchhead.com and got everything I need for $133.00. Saved myself $40 doing it online. Going to return the wrong shocks today back to that idiot place I went to yesterday.

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97 F150 XLT 4.6L 2WD

 

Man, I understand the frustration. It took me about an hour to get the right ones ordered at the place I went to. First they tried to sell me about three other kinds of shocks before I could get it through their thick skulls I wanted this particular brand and model. Then a whole bunch of screwing around to get the 2wd versions, and then the same hassle when it came time to honor the quoted price. Needless to say, I won't be using them as my primary shop anytime soon! Good Luck!

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1997 F150 XLT, Flareside , Moonlight Blue, 4x2, SC, Auto, 4.6L, 3:08, Cargo Cover by Century, Penda bed liner, Blue Oval reciever hitch plug, Driver Design bug deflector, Monroe Reflex Shocks, 235/70/16 Firestone Wilderness AT's, sliding rear window, captain's chairs, Valvoline Durablend Oil, Purolator Pure One Oil Filter, and 112,000 miles and counting!

 

Jefferydm,

I'm not sure if this will help you too much as you may have already replaced your shocks but just in case,and for anyone else considering doing it yourself,I'd like to share what happened when I relpaced my shocks yesterday.

With nearly 60,000 miles on my '97 4.2L 2wd I knew my shocks were shot but I didn't realize how desperate the situation was till I took the first front one off.(Don't anyone else wait 60,000 miles to replace your shocks!!!Replace them before you need to).
Because of the strong reputation they've earned through use on BMW's I was familiar with and really wanted the Bilstein's but I also wanted to save money so I went with the Monroe Reflex because of a discount I get through a distributor where my father is retired from.(10% over cost.Equal to about 1/2 of retail cost so the set was just under $85.00)
Part #:911131/Front
Part #:911132/Rear
The box doesn't state front or rear and the only difference is that the rear are a bit longer.

I agree with Matt90GT that it's not too difficult but there are a few things that help.
You'll need ramps to get the front shocks off.(It's not necessary to take the wheels off for front or rear shock removal even though both Haynes and Chilton say remove the wheels)You'll end up in some funny possitions trying to line up the shocks on the lower retaining bolts and I wouldn't want to do that if I were using jack stands.
You'll also need a couple of deep sockets.3/4" and 9/16" if you use Monroe.

My experience;
Grrrrrr!!!!!I decided to replace my shocks when I had to brake in an emergency and hit a small bump and ended up bounding to a stop and causing the ABS light to come on.
The front shock was tough.It took about a 1/2 hour and all of my strength to remove the nut from the retainer.When I finally got the nut off and removed the shock I found that the upper retaining bolt was bent at a 35 degree angle.On the other side it only took about 10 turns before the upper retaining bolt actually broke off.(Still havn't found it).After I removed all of the retaining bolts I drove up on the ramps and the shocks simply fell out.
Getting the new shocks on is a breeze.If you have problems with leverage when compressing the new shock just use a freind,or relative.(I wouldn't advise asking your wife or mother however)I used a brother and my father's cane as a lever to hold the shock up while I put the lower bolts on.
The rear shocks are difficult only because it's harder to get the leverage needed to remove the upper retaining bolts.Again,it's not really necessary to remove the wheels.

All in all,I don't think I would recommend the Monroe's if you want a truley spectacular ride.The body roll is definately a very noticable improvement but I still feel the full effect of every little road bump just as I did with the original shocks.
I'd say that Monroe's up front to save a little money would be acceptable but in the rear I think I'd be much better of with a pair of Edelbrock or Bilstein.

 

Gotta love the affect of the salt, don't ya! I had the same thing happen on my replacement, where the mounting stud broke off. At least it was easier than threading it off the whole way!

If you do the replacement on Jack Stands, there is no need to recompress the shocks as the suspension will already be at full droop. On the rears, simply leave the restraining straps on until you have the rears bolted in on the bottom. They were already at just about the right length!

Still happy with the results...

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1997 F150 XLT, Flareside , Moonlight Blue, 4x2, SC, Auto, 4.6L, 3:08, Cargo Cover by Century, Penda bed liner, Blue Oval reciever hitch plug, Driver Design bug deflector, Monroe Reflex Shocks, 235/70/16 Firestone Wilderness AT's, sliding rear window, captain's chairs, Valvoline Durablend Oil, Purolator Pure One Oil Filter, and 112,000 miles and counting!