Happy Thanksgiving To All

Well I finally had some time the other night to start installing my new Powerdyne kit.
The new coil pack bracket, DPFE bracket, and pulleys went nicely. I split the wiring loom and rerouted wires, retaped, etc, and that looks O.K.
Then I installed tha new air filter and housing ........ well it's in there at least. What a bad fit. The housing is an inch too wide.
I had to cut off one back lower corner to not cut into main headlight loom, loosen the degass bottle, and the lower cruise bolt is still a good 1/2" from it's correct location. I fix.
I think I can get a better fit by moving the degass bottle forward a little more.
You shouldn't have to make a choice between deleting the cruise or the degas bottle.
At least I got started with this project, finding the time right now is harder than finding the parts.
I also designed a support bracket for my intercooler - behind the grill & bumper, and have a local shop fabbing it next week.
I sent new CWP's to Troyer so .......... maybe by Xmas I will be at
6#, intercooled, with a good starting tune.

By the way, I think I know the answer to " what truck is this kit supposed to fit? " - 72 Toyota

 

I believe that i cut off an inch from that upper left bracket on the air box and drilled a new hole in the center of it and then it fit like the picture shows. but in it's origanal codition, no way. I'm not so shure that I woulden't change to a set up like WLF uses much more direct and easier to get to the filter etc. and then you can use a much larger filter, I don't think that the stock powerdyne flows enough air, I don't have any datta to back up that statement but it seems a little lacking to me.

Glad to hear that things are moving along, did you have the fun of removing the long powersteering reservoir bracket yet, Those bottom bolts faught me all the way.

 

Hi chucks bp-
I looked at WLF's air filter set up, and it looks like a great improvement.
I think the OEM air filter bracket could be removed to make more space for larger filter and housing.
I have access to a friend's sheet metal shop, so fabbing a new box isn't out of the question...... like I need one more project.
I'll survive with this one for a while.

 

I'm not sure if the same thing is on my 98, but I moved my cruise unit to the firewall fender corner behind the electical box. That gave me plenty of room to get my air filter in, and I just decided not to use that big air filter box it came with. I had an intake before, so I just cut down the adaptor that came with it to make it work.

 

98Navi-
Thanx for the pics and info.
I popped the hood, and yours looks very similiar to mine, but I don't see a spot to move the cruise to.... I'l look again, and ponder.

 

It was quite the tight squeeze, and I only put one bolt in it to hold it down over there, but I didn't have any problems out of it. Of course, non of that really matters since Ford disconnected it.

 

Well I had a little time this morning so I thought I'd install the s/c.
I opened the package of hardware with the s/c bracket, and found all the bolts for the Windsor motor, and only one Bolt for the Pierre motor - sure, I've got the Pierre.
Try to find hardware on Black Friday!
Any how, I checked again for Navi's cruise relocation spot, and it is taken by the horn for the security system. I think I can tweak the air filter housing to get the cruise back in..... I've added it to my list of things to do. Thanx,

Question for chucks bp-

You clocked the snail to line up with the cooler. I would like to clock mine to point down, so I can run air pipe just over the upper control arm and forward past the p/s pump.
It doesn't need to be exactly vertical.
A friend of my son's does custom mufflers, so a couple of kinky bends would eliminate 120 degrees of elbow,etc.

Thanx, Burns

 

The snail can be positioned anywhere you want, they use several clips that use two bolts for hold downs and one washe with a bolt. To reclock it first I would use a sharpi to mark where it is now just for referance. remove all bolts and clips the snail may fall right off but most are an interfierance fit just tap it with a soft hammer or mallet or block of wood and reposition it where you want then re install the hardware in the appropiate places, after they are snug I tap around the snail to be it is seated and then retighten. just be carefull not to damage the impellar. when finished spin the supercharger by hand to be shure it is free and centered. As I said the snail can be in any position.

My kit also had no smaller bolts for the romeo engine, I was able to get them in a hardware store. I diidnt like that they fit so loose inside the spacers, so I installed the flat washers and then slid brake tubing over them to bush them up a litttle larger. also after installing the three bolts and spacers there was one more hole that lined up with a threaded hole in the cover or head ( can't remember which one) and I installed a bolt in it for added support.

Also when you have everything mounted and finished, I made a support bracket that went from the aluminium bracket at the very top to one of the bolts for the fuel rail hold down, or what ever has a streight line hold. I found that at high RPM that the belt pulls so hard that the bracket bows forward and makes the belt walk on the idler pulley. I noticed this when on the dyno.

After you get everything mounted and operating open the trottle up to about 2500 rpm and see if the belt stays in the center of the idler You may have to shim the idler to keep the belt in the center otherwise it will wear the belt on the edge very fast. The idea is not to just shim it out but you will probably have to angle it, I have a large flat washer under the bracket on the bottom bolt and two small shims on top, and as I changed supercharger pulleys that also changed.

 

Oops! I meant Romeo..... Pierre? HaHa

Thanx,
I noticed the smaller bolts would be too sloppy in the bracket and spacers,
some sort of sheaves should be provided with the package, oh well.
I've got a great industrial hardware store near, I'll check there.
The fourth bolt and bracket are a good idea.

 

Call it what you want, I got the idea. The kit just keeps on getting better doesent it?? And you can't even imagine the fun you could have if you called tech. I bet they still never ran into such a thing. I felt better about the sleaves over the bolts. Not any stronger but kept everything lined up. Put a little thread locker on the bolts and be carefull not to over tighten and brake them, they are a long way in there and probly be difficult to remove.

 

Anyhow-
I found the correct 8mm bolts to mount the Powerdyne bracket including the 4th hole, and modified some sheaves to take up the slack between the mounting bolts and plate.

An observation:
The way that this whole gizmo mounts is over and through a cam chain cover, and that is why the plate will always flex. Maybe a stepped billet spacer from the back of the mounting plate to the actual cylinder head & block woud be an improvement, at least for the three 100 mm bolts........ maybe the thin bolts are needed to not interfere with the chain or tensioners....

I got the s/c bolted up and installed the idler, and guess what ....... the idler is nearly 1/2 inch too close to the s/c mounting plate. I checked the alignment with a straight edge, and the drive pulley and s/c pulley are aligned well. Go figure..... idler was probably for a 91 Buick.
Temporarily I will use my new stack of washers under each of my new longer bolts for adjustment, and find some better blocks later.

It looks like the 3" air pipe will fit under the s/c and through the gap to the front of the engine o.k..... I need to clock the snail.The disassembly of the s/c looks pretty straight forward, But I'm not sure if the pulley bolt is rh, or lh.
My guess is that when looking at the front of the s/c, the bolt turns to the right to remove..... cw and lh??

I picked up my intercooler bracket from the fabricator, and started laying out and drilling the bolt holes...... it looks like it'll work o.k..... trying to work under a lowerd truck with a tall air dam makes it a challenge...... I cut the 90 degree pipe which will connect to the TB and layed out the locations for the iat, etc... need varous sizes of aluminum tubing for outlets.

I had to send my XC2 back to Troyer for Firmware updates along with my new s/c tune ....... tuned back to stock, and reflashed with my old Evolution Tuner...... like eating burgers instead of steak........ got my 90mm in the mail, 42#'s this week.

I'm enjoying my slow progress, but please, someone make the hardware store visits stop

 

The pulley bolt is regular right hand thread, so you will need to turn it counter clockwise to remove, It has thread locker on it so it will be tight to brake loose. The easiest way to loosen it when it is on the truck is while the belt is tight remove the bolt ,then loosen the tensioner and the belt and pulley. The pulley will slide right off just be aware of a loose fitting piece of key stock, don't loose it. To re install I use some blue thread locker and again use the belt to hold the pulley, I tighten it as tight as I can with a wrench.
If not on the truck you can use a strap wrench. Don't use anything that will mark the surface of the pulley as this will cause belt wear. You can also use an Impact wrench if you have one although I woulden't get carried away with it on the install. i like to hand tighten things so I know they are correct.
Later i will try to measure that pedestal mount to see where the problem is they may have sent the wrong piece. The stem that is weldedto the bracket is offset to one side so depending on how much adjustment you need you can reverse it. you may also remove the idler and see if it is offset. I have a spare pulley when I go out to the garage I will take a look.

 

I went out and did some measurements, the pulley is centered so it will not make a differance other than a few thousanths. The stand that the pulley is on should be app. 1 and 7/8 inch tall from the rear mounting surface to the pulley mounting edge where the bearing would stop. I didn't dissasemble to measure but this should be fairly accurate give or take a 1/16 Just a thught, did you have the 3/8 halfmoon spacer between the back of the mounting plate and the front of the supercharger??

If you do have the wrong pulley assembly I would call Powerdyne and have them send the correct one. You have to do enough shimming without having more to deal with. And believe me you can not believe how incredably tight the supercharger belt has to be to eliminate belt slip especially when you go to smaller pulleys.

the problem on the 4.6 is that after any belt wear and stretch the inside surfaces of the belt will almost be touching, I made a second tensioner to seperate the center using a 6 rib idler to go on the long backside belt surface, but I haven't had to install it yet.

Hope the rest goes smoother. it realy can be installed in 4 hours if you had the right parts and didn't have to make everything fit. After all the messing around one becomes a powerdyne engineer. What can you expect for the money??

Just remember it will all be worth while

 

I also had to shim my tensioner out when I did the install - other wise the belt would have been riding on the pulley lip. I put a couple washers behind the pulley.

 

Thanx chucks bp and Shane-

I clocked the snail to about 7:30 - 8:00 ...... it turned very smoothly and bolted
back up nicely...... was looking for 6:30 or so, but the bolt pattern was such that my best choice was a little to the left.
The 3" pipe is looking bigger and bigger...

I still don't understand the tensioner not aligning.
I had half moon spacer in correctly.My son held a reliable 4' straight edge across the face of the drive pulley and up to the s/c pulley, and the line ran about 1/16" over / into the the s/c pulley.For the distance it seems o.k....... I held the tensioner in my hand and measured 1 1/4" from back side to pulley bearing, which is about 7/8 - 1" per chuck's measurements....dunno.

I pulled the cover off of the front of the s/c to have a look, and to try one of my two new strap wrenchs. ( $ 15 - large & small - too cool )
It looks straight forward enough. I could replace bearings and belt if necessary.The smaller bearing looked like a newer sealed version, and the larger one looked like any other industrial bearing.......go figure.

I planned to use the stacked washers temporarily to get close, and the use a billet piece like the spacers for the mounting plate ...... found many different sizes available.

My son is going to a big auto swap meet in Pomona, Ca. tomorrow and he swears he'll find a new tensioner that will be perfect........... even after I showed him a picture of the monster that WLF had tried, and abandonded...... LOL kid... I told him to take the old one with him and throw it through Powerdyne's front window ...... only a mile or two out of his way ..... guess he forgot it.