Ok that sounds logical to me. Thank you sir

 

Lowering the rear that much may need a center support bearing shim to raise it up a bit.

 

I'ved had to put the McGaughys bearing carrier kit when I dropped mine. (DJM3/5 kit)

 

Added some info on Michigan Metal Works bumpsteer kit, I don't know for sure but sounds as if that might be an alternative to cutting tie rods. But mainly it will eliminate bumpsteer for those lowered more then 3" without a spindle

 

I've got an 05 F150 FX4. It's got a 8" lift and 37's. I want to lower it. I want it as low as it will go without having to do anything too dramatic to it. Anyone have any pointers?

 

Check out Swayzecrazy's post on the second page. He is a 4x4 that is safely dropped to 2.5/4 (those are 2wd numbers, going from a 4x4 to 2wd parts will get you another inch in the front and 1.5 in the rear). So that would be 3.5/5.5 lower than your stock height. He did struts in the front and a flip kit in the rear, both are fairly easy to do if you know how to work on a vehicle.

 

Thanks bub.

Pops and I put the lift on ourselves, so I know the where-a-bouts of what I'm doing. Will be looking into it.

 

I have a 2006 f150 on 26" wheels it sitting on a height of 37.8 " in the back and in front it's sitting at 37.5". Ordered the rear shackles to drop 2 more inches but having trouble figuring out what to order for the front since its sitting on 26s.

 

rim size doesn't matter. I lay frame and I done it so I can fit 26" in there (32" tall tire)

tire height and "poking" is the most important.
poking: does the rim/tire extended more to the outside then the stock one?
Give us :Tire size and wheel width and offset and we can figure it out.

Anything that is more to the outside and you won't be able to drop more then 2" on a 2wd.

 

You are already level, what does it currently have on it?

 

so after 7 years, my 2" drop springs on the stock struts are sagging says the Allignment guy. I have a '05 2wd crew.
My question is what is best way to get back to same drop and get my Allignment back in check? New struts and drop springs or a full replacement strut and 2" spindle. If I read right once you do a drop spindle you can't run the factory wheels any more??
I am currently running a 305/45/22. Just kills me my new tires are wearing bad on the inside, but I know the 10 year old struts prob need replaced.

Any pointers?

 

Spindle is the absolute best way to lower these trucks, but yes, it needs 20" wheels or larger. Doesn't seem to be an issue since you have 22's. But these are expensive and you would still need struts.

Now I assume you still have the stock springs. If that's the case, your best option (price wise) is to just get the belltech adjustable struts with the stock springs. They don't cost much more than factory replacement struts, and you can go from 1" lift to 3" drop on them (if I remember correctly).

 

100% agree with AZ. I have the drop struts and truck isn't riding very good. It did at first and I replaced my drivers side upper Control arm and decided to install a camber kit and get it aligned fully to get rid of the negative camber. Big mistake. I went through 3 shops and ultimately went back to the ford dealer. It rides hard and I think something is wrong with how it all is aligned. Tie rods probably need to have threads added as well I'm not sure if a shock was damaged as NTB didn't tighten the LCA bolts and the truck slammed out of alignment when I hit a bridge on the highway. I head a squeaking from the shocks until it was aligned somewhere else.

Needless to say I regret the struts because unless you have a really good shop around that will get it spot on, you run the risk of what happened to me.

I'm going to go with the Belltech Drop Spindles, Eibach pro dampers and the belltech rear leafs when I change it out. I like that they keep the factory geometry. And Stylin Trucks always sends me coupons for 15-25% off and Belltech is not on their "can't use coupon" list. They $399 now.

 

No I don't have the original factory springs. So I will need to buy full strut/spring replacement.

I was hoping to keep it where I could run factory 17's and the 22's as winter time I like to put on the factory's with a bit more winter tread.

Either way I have to buy struts and springs..... I didn't have these issues till I replaced factory control arms due to bad ball joints. Then the Allignment shop says well too much camber and not enough adjustment. Says the springs must be sagging. Not sure brand but they were cheap like under 200.

So with that info any change? I just want the camber issue fixed and decent ride. Without wearing out front tires in 6months.

 

unless you have 100K on your drop spring and your strut are shot, I would just elongated the factory slot like belltech ask to do when installing their drop strut. then have it aligned (Forget about camber bolt their are not needed for our truck). Any drop more then 2" drop with strut or spring need the slot elongated!
This have a plus: when your shock will be toasted: You would be able to swap them for belltech adjustable drop strut and stock spring.

Though: 7years stock strut with 2" drop spring: the strut must have some use :|

Spindle are great, but 20" minimum will cost you quite a bit to have your 17" winter changed for 20" (Ask me how I know )