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Designing a set up for '04 S'crew
Ok - here's what i'm thinking so far:
HU - Kenwood DDx7015 (have already) AMP - Kenwood KAC-9103D d class -1800w/500w@4ohm-.5%thd (est$200) Subwoofer - HELP - having a hard time finding one that will fit!! (Est $150) Enlcosure - Supercrew Sound Single 10" - .6 CU and 5.25" clearance for sub (est $150) Suggestions for the doors? (est. $200) Sound deadner, cable etc - (est. $200) Want to keep this around $900 total, but willing to shift money around. Some of these estimates are high - but freight to Hawaii is high - Paradise tax! Also, phase 2 would be electrical - looking to switch to a 2 Optima (red and yellow) battery set up - which control set up should i use? Want to use the 1/0 cable, and set up the "Big three". (est $500) Enjoy loud music once in a while, and OEM isn't cutting it - esp after hearing my daugher/boy friend's set up. Also, tired of having to listen to someone else's loud music - would like to let them know that their loud music is bothering me.:devil: Thanks guys! |
Subwoofer: For that price range I would suggest RL-i, TC-1000, Polk momo10, IDQ 10 if you can find one.
Personaly I would go with the Tc-1000 myself. Enclosure: Can't go wrong with supercrew sounds, I have a 10'' with extra mounting depth that I might be selling. Upgrading to SI BM :thumbsup: Doors: Rainbow SLC 265's. Throw a PM to 6spdcoupe. Right in your price range, just a few dollars more. Sound Deadener: Secondskin or raammat. 80sqft of secondskin covered all my doors of my Supercab and back wall. Still have a good amount left. Wires: Knukonceptz Karmawire. I have 16ga but would recommend 12ga. Krystal RCA's 1/0ga Kol Amp kit if you can swing it but 4ga should be fine. Grab some extra runs for your big three. Don't think your going to need a new battery, but I'm not a sound guru so take what I said with a grain of salt. -Ben |
For that setup
I don't think you need that much amp, particularly if you are using one 10" such as the IDQ 10" that can be ordered with the box from supercrewsound.
It's optimum band is at about 100 to 200w. I'd suggest looking around for a class A amp with a little less power that can be bridged to send 100 W to the single 10 inch sub. Particularly since you are trying to keep to a budget. Here's a very good used Macintosh Class A amp, .005% THD, for $500. 4 channel, as example: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...light=Mcintosh MacintoshAugs |
that KAC-9103D is only 900w rms @ 2 ohm and 500w rms @ 4 ohm, so if your dead set on that amp pick a sub to match
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Revised Design?!?!
Ok, heard ya - i think!?!?
do a better job of matching up equipment. Start with the box ($200) - .6 cf with a max depth of 5 7/8" (5 1/4 + 5/8 extra) I understand they cut an opening and cover it with 1/4 MDF - that ok? Maybe build the one that 051fdrof/Dupuis posted? Looked great! Speaker i found was JT audio 10w3v2 ($155), 600/300 w, 5 6/8 depth, and needs .6 - .9 cf - if i add baffeling - should be ok? Then the amp - Bridge a JL 300/2 ($300) - 300 w @ .03 thd with s/n ratio of 108.5. Thought about the 250/1 - but this has better thd and s/n - right? Front speaker - stick with JL - cannot afford zr, so xr570.csi ($300). Rear door - seems like most of you leave this out, but what the heck - i'm on a JL roll, JL tr570.cxi ($100). To drive these looking at the JL (of course!) 300/4 ($345) - same specs as 300/2. Better job this time? Over kill? this looks to be about $1,400 - a little more than the budgeted $800, so jump in with good alternatives. |
narrowing it down
Yeah, you got the idea with the amp. Match it to your drivers.
If you are just going with one 10inch then I think you can get a supercrewsound 10 inch box for under the rear left passenger seat with an Image Dynamics 10" packaged with it for less than your budget amount of $355. The IDQ-10 is a great dual coil that you'd have to either run at 2 ohms in parallel or drive it at 4 with two channels, so you'd want to be sure the JBL is stable into 2 ohms. The IDQ 10 inch is spec'd to run optimally at around 100 to 200w according to it's chart. You didn't mention crossovers for your front components. So I suppose you'll drive them off your Kenwood HU, right? Do you have tweets? As per rear doors, most I know don't worry about the rears as we want to create a sound stage centered up front, similar to listening to a band. I run the OEM 5 x7's off the head unit, but fade the HU all the way to the front and run my front components and sub off the amp. I wouldn't spend your budget on new rear door drivers. If you want to get a little better midbass from the OEM rears, and you have mat left over front the fronts, do the rears similar to this. https://www.f150online.com/galleries...755-190536.jpg |
Thanks TBDAugs!
I acutally priced the Supercrewsound 10" box - shipping to Paradise is $60 pushing it up to $200. Maybe build the box - should be able to do better cost wise and not have to worry about the box being damaged in shipping. Only problem would be the matching carpet. Know a source? The IDQ10 looks to cost about the same as the JL ($159 vs $155 incl shipping). The IDQ10 is dual 2 ohm, and the JL can come either dual 2,4 or 6 Ohm. The amp can go either 150w x2 or the 300 x1 so it'll work with either. Just got off the phone with a distributor, and they are saying that the JL10w3v2 is discontinued now. Maybe that made the choice easier. The front JL XR570-CSi is a split system, and do come with crossovers and tweeters. The matting looks great. Maybe you can clarify something - the dampening reduces the vibrations/sounds - couldn't we achieve the same/improve by bracing up the doors like they do in speaker boxes? thanks!! |
Originally Posted by Banzai83
- couldn't we achieve the same/improve by bracing up the doors like they do in speaker boxes?
thanks!! ya if you don't want to rool down your windows |
Interesting - a nice challenge! Brace up the door, but still be able to roll down the windows!:)
But that is the theory right - reduce door vibrations? |
Originally Posted by Banzai83
Interesting - a nice challenge! Brace up the door, but still be able to roll down the windows!:)
But that is the theory right - reduce door vibrations? |
Originally Posted by styxnpicks
grab ya som sound deadener and go to town, trust me it makes a HUGE!!!!! difference
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Originally Posted by anaheim_drew
How much of a difference?
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Originally Posted by styxnpicks
my f150 rides about as quiet as my bros bmw...... ok maybe not THAT quiet, but it does lower the road/wind noise a good amount
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Originally Posted by anaheim_drew
What about sound quality compared to without it?
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Jl audio is definantly the way to go for subs in an 04 and up supercrew. I have 2 10w3v3's and they are amazing. As for door speakers I would reccomend the infinity 682.7's for front and rear. Tip buy them from ebay I think I paid $70 for mine so 140 total is a great deal!!! Top of the line speakers. I have a P450.4 Fosgate Punch powering those. It sounds like a concert in my car amazing sharpness and sound quality.
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