I have a 2007 F150 5.4 3v with trans code Q which is the 4R75E. I’m trying to figure out if the rebuild kit for the 4R75W is the same? My reverse went out and I’m not going to pull the trans to fix with out going ahead and doing a rebuild since it has 217xxx miles on it. Can’t get a straight answer anywhere on the web, hope someone can help please and thank you!

 

Officially, Ford never used the 4R75W name... 2006-2014 are 4R75E transmissions. rebuild kits for 2004 and newer are the same. Make sure you get a new reverse band, since yours is most likely broken. Every truck transmission I have rebuilt with no reverse had a broken band.

 

Thanks! That’s the info I needed, rebuild kits I find say 75w so I was just making sure it was the same thing. They don’t come with a reverse band so planned to get one also!

 

That's not right. Ford absolutely used the name 4R75W. I know a Ford engineer that helped introduce it. Here are a few examples from the 04 factory service manuals since I have that DVD in right now.

But, it is correct that the kit would be the same from 04 on regardless of 70 or 75 or what letter comes after the 70 or 75.


Panther platform

SN95 platform

 

Very neat info. Thanks for sharing Darrin.

 

why does it matter what the transmission is called? or who's right and who is wrong? 2006 and up is a 4R75.. kits are the same..

 

Look, I'm just not one to offer information that isn't factual. It's a HUGE pet peeve of mine. I do what I do to try and help people, not misinform them.

I expect to be challenged on what I say because it's all part of it. The key is to work very hard to know what you're talking about and not say anything you can't positively prove. There is no point in it. It definitely doesn't help anyone and it actually, honestly hurts everyone that reads it by arming them with nonsense.

You didn't need to include what you said in your original post. The bigger question is why did you do that if what the transmission is called doesn't matter? If you hadn't have included that then we wouldn't be discussing it. Still.

But whatever.

Here's another thing I learned a LONG time ago. It's NOT about me. So, when I'm wrong, I admit that I'm wrong and almost always thank the person showing me my error for helping me learn something so that I can more accurately share with others. But, that's just me.

D

 

mitrymerc/Darrin, why did they make the 4R70 and 4R75? I see that they are both made at the same plant too; Sharonville/Livonia?

I remember reading a while back that it was just electronics to make it "shift smarter" and a better torque converter?

 

There were differences within the valve body and vehicle calibrations. No question about that.

Torque converter wise, on the passenger cars there was definitely a difference with the 4R75W. They had furnace brazed fins and a larger sprag. Those things I have seen personally.
I cannot verify this, but I was told that the converter in those had a thrust bearing instead of a thrust washer. Then, the other day I was told that this was incorrect. So I don't know. They may have still been built with a thrust washer. I haven't been able to positively verify that either way and I have exactly zero personal experience internally on them to know firsthand. Torque converters are not my thing, so I have to rely on secondhand info at best here. If I find out for sure then I will update.

As for the internals, if you took all the internals out of a 4Ranything built 04 and newer and gave them to a builder they wouldn't be able to tell you what the factory called it.

D

 

The 4R70 has 700 lb-ft of torque capacity after the torque converter multiplication. The 4R75 has 750 lb-ft capacity.

Also, Sharonville and Livonia are two different plants. Sharonville is in Sharonville, Ohio, a suburb of Cincinnati. Livonia is in Livonia, MI, a suburb of Detroit, I worked at this plant for 19 years.

 

Interesting.

Sorry, the way I worded it, I mean to say it the opposite: the are both made in different plants.

Thanks for the info. Very neat.

 

Just joined the group so I'm a junior member but an old fart! Maybe Darrin Burch or mitymerc can help me out. About 2 weeks ago trans. stopped working in reverse ,but works & shifts fine in any forward gear. I removed the trans.as I figured it needed to be rebuild w/200 plus miles. I was looking to find a broken band or damaged reverse servo . I couldn't find any damage at all that was noticeable. All clutch packs & both bands look good, (a nice orange color), reverse rings on the input shaft, case looks good inside. Nothing but normal wear as far as I can see. I am wondering if it is a electronic control issue? I have been a mechanic for 50 some years, mostly heavy equipment & heavy trucks, have rebuilt all manner of Road Ranger trans & Allison automatics. That being said, I am greener than the grass when you throw in computer & electronic controls. I notice what looks like pressure port plugs (1/4 in. NPT) on the outside of the case next to each servo & accumulator. Does the a manual state the value reading on those ports when shifting shift lever to different positions?

Thanks in Advance for any replies;
Skidlid, Ed Randolph

 

Buenas tardes, recién me uno al grupo, me parece muy interesante y me disculpó de antemano. me gustaría hacer una consulta. Tengo un Lincoln town car 2006 y hace poco adquirí un Crown Vict 2011 sin transmisión, hice el intercambio de la transmisión del town car 2006 pero al conectar el plug del lado derecho, lado del pasajero no es igual. Hay manera de solucionarlo o definitivamente no lo puedo usar?Good afternoon, I just joined the group, I find it very interesting and I apologized in advance. I like to be a consultant. I have a 2006 Lincoln town car and I recently purchased a 2011 Crown Vict without transmission, I did the exchange of the 2006 town car transmission but when connecting the plug on the right side, the passenger side is not the same. Is there a way to fix it or I definitely can't use it?

 

I have the same in twin f150s, 07 and 08. The vin makes it a 4sR75E built in Lavonia. My torque convertor is starting to shudder and bump so Im removing it. my question is what brand or type of convertor is recommended. I called Autozone and found one for $158 and wondered if it would be worth the work to install it or look for something good for the long haul as my son has already claimed the twins for his inheritance. Thanks.

 

Are you sure it isn't misfiring? A low grade misfire can feel like TC shudder.