looking at replacing my spark plugs
#1
looking at replacing my spark plugs
Looking @ replacing my spark plugs, what are the best plugs to use?
I assume I need anti-seize
have heard rumors of them becoming loose, and blowing out, thus destroying the threads in the head?
what motor do I have? have been seeing 5.4L 2V, 3V, or 4V?
My truck is a 2001, F150, 4x4, XLT, Supercab, 5.4L motor (L code), 4R70W trans.
Looking to order these TODAY
TIA!
EDIT: just found this thread, lol
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-xlt-5-4l.html
trying to confirm a few things right now, then off to amazon
what about the best tools to use for the job? anything work better than another method?
I assume I need anti-seize
have heard rumors of them becoming loose, and blowing out, thus destroying the threads in the head?
what motor do I have? have been seeing 5.4L 2V, 3V, or 4V?
My truck is a 2001, F150, 4x4, XLT, Supercab, 5.4L motor (L code), 4R70W trans.
Looking to order these TODAY
TIA!
EDIT: just found this thread, lol
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-xlt-5-4l.html
trying to confirm a few things right now, then off to amazon
what about the best tools to use for the job? anything work better than another method?
Last edited by jimbo74; 05-22-2018 at 08:17 AM.
#2
Use Motorcraft spark plugs. The common advice is to not use anti-seize and torque the plugs to 28 ft. lbs. However, when I replaced my plugs I did use anti-seize on the threads. This was 30k miles ago. I bought my plugs from Advance Auto Parts for less than $3 apiece. They are a pita to replace. Just take your time and you can do it. I did have to pull the fuel rail on the driver's side to get to one plug. I did not need a universal joint or socket that had a universal built in.
#5
#6
Q: Why do you prefer 28 foot lbs torque instead of the factory specification?
A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with 10 other Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 28 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure.
Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs?
A: No, we always use Motorcraft nickel plated spark plugs to stop any issues with electrolysis.
YES, I'm POSITIVE that's the right part number or I wouldn't have posted it. Sometime in the past 17 years, Motorcraft changed all those "A" part numbers to "SP" numbers. Gap .054.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...park+plug,7212
MOTORCRAFT SP479 {#AGSF22WM, AGSF22WMF4, AWSF22E} Platinum-Nickel Plated Shell
Platinum; Gap: .054
$2.50
A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with 10 other Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 28 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure.
Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs?
A: No, we always use Motorcraft nickel plated spark plugs to stop any issues with electrolysis.
YES, I'm POSITIVE that's the right part number or I wouldn't have posted it. Sometime in the past 17 years, Motorcraft changed all those "A" part numbers to "SP" numbers. Gap .054.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...park+plug,7212
MOTORCRAFT SP479 {#AGSF22WM, AGSF22WMF4, AWSF22E} Platinum-Nickel Plated Shell
Platinum; Gap: .054
$2.50
#7
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