Hey all. I hope this isn't a repeat but i have searched on here for a while and dont seem to find my answer in whole. Ive been getting the misfire on my truck starting this time last year and had 1 coil and plug changed. All was good until now, when I'm getting the same issue. After researching here and Youtube I'm seeing the reasons behind the stutter/misfire with the buildup in the intercooler. So my question is, should i go ahead and drill the hole AND add a catch can? I only have 54k on the odometer, so is it a good idea to change plugs at this time and/or coils to get a fresh start? Its frustrating to deal with this stuff but its much better than dealing with worse issues.

Any input appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Drill the hole, change the plugs spend the catch can money on beer.

 

Plugs should be changed every 40k. Coils only need to be changed when they start misfiring.

 

ok, so last night i drilled the hole and recovered just enough oil to fill the bottom of a water bottle. It was just enough that you could swirl it around but that was it. Testing it on my way to work this morning i still feel some misfiring going on. Is there a chance that a coil is bad, or do you think changing the plugs will remedy the issue? I will change plugs one evening this week when i get some free time. Also, i think i recall someone stating that .028 should be the optimal gap for the ecoboost. Is that correct or should i go with .030? Stick with Motorcraft or is another brand better for this motor?

 

Motor crafts at .030" and you're set. The iridium Motorcraft plugs aren't supposed to have the gap adjusted either, they come right out of the box. The inner electrode is pretty small, it doesn't take much to damage it. A smaller gap is only for a highly modified engine.

What year is your truck? The 2011's had factory gaps all over the place. I had some time were around .045" after 40,000.

 

My truck is a 2011. The odd part is when i bought the new plugs, the computer at the store showed .035 is where the factory gap is, but the plugs measured closer to .030. I had to adjust 1 or 2 because they were not gapped the same. I did learn that the iridium plugs need a different gap tool because of the sensitive electrode.

So here's what i have done, for future reference and for someone else searching the same thing. Last year I had the same problem and i didnt know what i know now. When it started misfiring i kind of made it throw up a code so i would know how to attack the repair. Now after realizing it was the plugs causing it, i am the one who ended up ruining the coil on cylinder #4. If i knew everything i have learned the last couple of weeks, i would have changed the plugs and saved myself the other $200 it costed me to get the diagnostic done to see which coil was bad, and to change the one coil and plug. Here is the list of items i did and the solution worked, no more misfires:

1. Replaced every spark plug (Motorcraft SP-534 gapped at .030) and applied anti-seize to the threads.
2. Replaced coil boots on all 6 coils (Motorcraft WR-6135) and applied a little dielectric grease to each one.
3. Cleaned 2 mass air flow sensors. 1 in the center of the intake and the other one located in front of the radiator with mass air flow cleaner (dont rub anything inside the sensor to clean it -NO TOUCH! - Let air dry before re-installing.
4. Drilled 3/32 hole in intercooler on drivers side, facing the front fascia.

All this for around $80 and less than an hour of my time. Problem solved, trucks idles much smoother, and i feel my horsepower returned from what i remember it when i first bought it. My next step will be the catch can because its a piece of mind for me because I'm keeping this truck for a while, maybe until it finally lays down on me. I am at 56,000 miles right now, so all is good and it was due for a service anyways.

So for anyone who may be searching in the future for this issue, hopefully this helps. If the check engine light is not on, then likely its not the coil. At least in my situation it wasn't. The plugs had carbon build up and sensors all had oil coating them. With just a slight refresh for minimum money its made a world of difference.

Thanks to everyone for the input and help on this. I really do appreciate it.

 

Good deal!

​​​​​​As a technical note, the Ecoboost doesn't use a MAF sensor. They have a series of temperature and pressure sensors as they have a MAP based system. But, if they get dirty it throws the mixture off too.

 

Thats an oops on my part on the MAF .I thought i read somewhere that someone called them that but maybe i saw MAP and converted it in my mind when typing. Thats good info to know .Thats what i like about this board even though im not on here much .Thanks again all!!

 

The 2011 trucks use a MAF housing with a temp sensor in it. That was changed the 2012s. The original design confused people because it looks just like a MAF.