I’ve been a member for sometime now not posting much but always gaining information from all the great people in this community. So over the past year I’ve redone the cab rust, chassis, suspension and drivetrain. Still need to do the bed, interior, and paint the truck. So now I introduce my pride and joy. 1995 ford f 150 xlt lariat 4x4 5 spd, Shorty headers, cat back flow master exhaust 2 1/2” pipes super 44 muffler 3 inch rolled stainless tips, with a fresh rebuilt 351w ( entire motor rebuilt forged pistons, chromoly rings and connecting rods, forged crank stock cam, heads were redone etc etc. transmission is 2 years old. I’ve had the truck for about 10 years now. Slowly I would do things as they broke or started to fail. 8 years ago the 302 failed overheated and seized up. So I swapped in a 351 out of a 1995 e250 van. The body was in good shape up until 2 years ago the cab corners started to really go to the rust God’s. You could see outside from the inside.

April 2017 I laid the old beast up. And started pulling it apart. Before I knew it the truck looked like it went through a chop shop. The bed was off, motor was on a stand, the truck was up on 4 industrial jack stands, tires off and the frame stripped bare of gas tanks, fuel lines, brake lines, every harness, you name it it was off.

Brought the motor to a machine Shop that a friend suggested. If anyone lives in nj I highly recommend bison engine and machine. Rich was amazing and had no problems talking my build over with me for almost a month. As my truck is speed density we decided to keep the build as stock but add forged pistons and crank. Took about 2 months for the motor as he would let me pay him in installments then do more work.

Over that time I replaced broken/rotted suspension brackets and every aping and shock. cut out a rotted section of frame and welded it back in. Needle scaled the entire frame and wire wheeled it. After much research I decided to go with a product from magnet paints called chassis saver. It inbeds itself in the rust and sucks the moisture out which neutralizes the rust followed by a top coat of there enamel black each coat applied one on top of the other doing a combined total of 9 coats. Added polyurethane bushings everywhere, redid every brake component front and back, all wheel bearings, stainless brake lines, new fuel tanks, you name it right down to the washer fluid pump.

Once I picked my motor up I started the process of painting it and assemble. Added a high flow water pump from flow kooler, upgraded to a dual row radiator, eliminated the air pump , plugged the cross over pipe ports in the back, removed the egr added my own homemade block off plate, removed the ac system as the condenser and pump were no good, added a 250 amp alternator with the big 3 upgrade. Used all 0 and 4 gauge wire throughout. Put the Shorty pacesetter headers on with stage 8 locking bolts. Changed all the interior bulbs to blue in the cluster and temp control console. Added a 6 gang rocker switch with 2 usb charger ports and a 12v power supply for none usb devices. Custom llc grille. Added lights behind the grille and a ford emblem off of a very old Big Big truck. This emblem is heavy. Smoked out front lights minus the headlights kept them clear. Led upgraded lights in the entire truck. Added under dash blue lights and I connected one led pod on each side of the under the door to the door jamb switch so when you open the door it lights up the ground under neath.

2 weeks ago I finally got the truck back on the road. And it feels amazing. Has it’s little issues with idle but that’s it. Drives like a brand new truck on the highway and sounds awesome. I’ve done so many more upgrades I just can’t think of them all.

For all that took the time to read thank you for taking a little insight on my long journey.

 

You've done a fantastic job! I moved your post to a forum where it should get a lot more attention.

 

Take it easy on that transmission - the M5OD from the 4.9 and 302 wasn't built to handle the torque of a 351.

 

Thank you blue jay.

 

Yea I know glc. I’ve been researching for a while trying to decide what trans I wanna get next. I’ll tell you what though I got this one 2 years ago from smart parts auto and they claim to beef up the weak spots on there transmissions before they send them out. I know there’s no mods for the m5od but they made the syncros out of a different material and I have no complaints.

 

If it does go out on you, look at a ZF swap.

 

I’m always lookin to see if I can find one at a good price. There about 1300 new