Need help 94 f150 wont start no fire and no fuel
#1
12-21-2017, 04:15 PM
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Need help 94 f150 wont start no fire and no fuel
I have a 94 F150 with the 300 6 cylinder I bought it wasn't running I replace the starter the alternator position control module PCM the distributor the coil cap rotor button wires and plugs but yet still no fire and no fuel can anybody help me
Last edited by Jasoncarden; 12-21-2017 at 04:19 PM.
#2
12-21-2017, 06:04 PM
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#3
12-22-2017, 01:59 PM
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I tried all that still no fuel and no fire i bought a new computer but my check engine light is not coming on plus i went to a junk yard and bought a used computer the check engine light would come on but it wouldnt go off but now with the new one it wont come on and i tried to do the jumper wire to check the codes it wouldnt work. For some reason when i check to see if my coil has power going to it it has power going to the positive and the neg and the condenser on the side of the coil
#4
01-04-2018, 10:54 AM
Jason - I deleted the new thread you started on this problem in a different section. This is the correct section to get help. Please don't create multiple threads on the same topic - it causes confusing responses that can waste your time and cost you money.
My post here has brought this thread to the top. Hopefully, you'll get someone who understands your problem to offer help. My gut feeling is you need a shop with good diagnostic tools to determine what is wrong.
- Jack
My post here has brought this thread to the top. Hopefully, you'll get someone who understands your problem to offer help. My gut feeling is you need a shop with good diagnostic tools to determine what is wrong.
- Jack
#5
01-07-2018, 04:07 PM
I tried all that still no fuel and no fire i bought a new computer but my check engine light is not coming on plus i went to a junk yard and bought a used computer the check engine light would come on but it wouldnt go off but now with the new one it wont come on and i tried to do the jumper wire to check the codes it wouldnt work. For some reason when i check to see if my coil has power going to it it has power going to the positive and the neg and the condenser on the side of the coil
As long as power is going through, the coil builds energy.
When the circuit is broken (by the PIP) all that built up energy in the coil fires out the top.
The PIP acts the same as ignition points used to, way back when.
You can test the PIP with a test light but you would need an LED test light because a standard one isn't capable of flashing fast enough - it would just stay lit.
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01-07-2018, 06:55 PM
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Help
It should have power. The power goes through the coil and back to ground at the PIP inside the distributor.
As long as power is going through, the coil builds energy.
When the circuit is broken (by the PIP) all that built up energy in the coil fires out the top.
The PIP acts the same as ignition points used to, way back when.
You can test the PIP with a test light but you would need an LED test light because a standard one isn't capable of flashing fast enough - it would just stay lit.
As long as power is going through, the coil builds energy.
When the circuit is broken (by the PIP) all that built up energy in the coil fires out the top.
The PIP acts the same as ignition points used to, way back when.
You can test the PIP with a test light but you would need an LED test light because a standard one isn't capable of flashing fast enough - it would just stay lit.
Last edited by Jasoncarden; 01-07-2018 at 06:58 PM.
#7
01-07-2018, 07:31 PM
You would find that on an XLT with remote keyless entry. If you open the door without unlocking the door (key or remote) the disabler engages.
But the disabler would not allow power to the coil; so probably not your issue.
There is a ground to the rad saddle in front of the washer bottle; I know that if you unhook that the pumps won't run.
After checking that you'll have to see if you're actually getting power from the ecm to the f/p relay for a couple of seconds when you cycle the key from on to off to on again.
That will only happen for about 2 seconds (prime) then nothing unless the ecm gets a signal from the ICM showing that the motor is running.
The signal to the relay will close the relay and send voltage (through the other 2 contacts) to the pump. Before it gets to the pump it has to go through the inertia switch and the dash tank selector switch (if equipped). You can check for power there with a test light or meter to see if the circuit is delivering power that far.
For ignition, if you have power to the coil and the PIP breaks that power circuit, you should get a spark if all the ignition components are good.
I see you replaced all the parts except the ICM which is below the driver's hood hinge. That could quite possibly be the issue. Take note that 94 and later systems require a black ICM; not a grey one.
After all that I personally would be looking at the computer at that point. A computer from a junkyard truck is always suspect unless you heard the truck it came out of running; there's always a reason why trucks are parked there.
With all the new ignition parts the ICM or a connection are prime suspects for no spark.
No fuel, you have to go through the whole f/p circuit to make sure power is getting where it belongs and back to ground - after that the pump becomes suspect.
Bear in mind that sometimes brand new parts are NFG right out of the box; don't eliminate something as not possibly being the problem just because it's new.
But the disabler would not allow power to the coil; so probably not your issue.
There is a ground to the rad saddle in front of the washer bottle; I know that if you unhook that the pumps won't run.
After checking that you'll have to see if you're actually getting power from the ecm to the f/p relay for a couple of seconds when you cycle the key from on to off to on again.
That will only happen for about 2 seconds (prime) then nothing unless the ecm gets a signal from the ICM showing that the motor is running.
The signal to the relay will close the relay and send voltage (through the other 2 contacts) to the pump. Before it gets to the pump it has to go through the inertia switch and the dash tank selector switch (if equipped). You can check for power there with a test light or meter to see if the circuit is delivering power that far.
For ignition, if you have power to the coil and the PIP breaks that power circuit, you should get a spark if all the ignition components are good.
I see you replaced all the parts except the ICM which is below the driver's hood hinge. That could quite possibly be the issue. Take note that 94 and later systems require a black ICM; not a grey one.
After all that I personally would be looking at the computer at that point. A computer from a junkyard truck is always suspect unless you heard the truck it came out of running; there's always a reason why trucks are parked there.
With all the new ignition parts the ICM or a connection are prime suspects for no spark.
No fuel, you have to go through the whole f/p circuit to make sure power is getting where it belongs and back to ground - after that the pump becomes suspect.
Bear in mind that sometimes brand new parts are NFG right out of the box; don't eliminate something as not possibly being the problem just because it's new.
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#8
01-07-2018, 07:45 PM
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You would find that on an XLT with remote keyless entry. If you open the door without unlocking the door (key or remote) the disabler engages.
But the disabler would not allow power to the coil; so probably not your issue.
There is a ground to the rad saddle in front of the washer bottle; I know that if you unhook that the pumps won't run.
After checking that you'll have to see if you're actually getting power from the ecm to the f/p relay for a couple of seconds when you cycle the key from on to off to on again.
That will only happen for about 2 seconds (prime) then nothing unless the ecm gets a signal from the ICM showing that the motor is running.
The signal to the relay will close the relay and send voltage (through the other 2 contacts) to the pump. Before it gets to the pump it has to go through the inertia switch and the dash tank selector switch (if equipped). You can check for power there with a test light or meter to see if the circuit is delivering power that far.
For ignition, if you have power to the coil and the PIP breaks that power circuit, you should get a spark if all the ignition components are good.
I see you replaced all the parts except the ICM which is below the driver's hood hinge. That could quite possibly be the issue. Take note that 94 and later systems require a black ICM; not a grey one.
After all that I personally would be looking at the computer at that point. A computer from a junkyard truck is always suspect unless you heard the truck it came out of running; there's always a reason why trucks are parked there.
With all the new ignition parts the ICM or a connection are prime suspects for no spark.
No fuel, you have to go through the whole f/p circuit to make sure power is getting where it belongs and back to ground - after that the pump becomes suspect.
Bear in mind that sometimes brand new parts are NFG right out of the box; don't eliminate something as not possibly being the problem just because it's new.
But the disabler would not allow power to the coil; so probably not your issue.
There is a ground to the rad saddle in front of the washer bottle; I know that if you unhook that the pumps won't run.
After checking that you'll have to see if you're actually getting power from the ecm to the f/p relay for a couple of seconds when you cycle the key from on to off to on again.
That will only happen for about 2 seconds (prime) then nothing unless the ecm gets a signal from the ICM showing that the motor is running.
The signal to the relay will close the relay and send voltage (through the other 2 contacts) to the pump. Before it gets to the pump it has to go through the inertia switch and the dash tank selector switch (if equipped). You can check for power there with a test light or meter to see if the circuit is delivering power that far.
For ignition, if you have power to the coil and the PIP breaks that power circuit, you should get a spark if all the ignition components are good.
I see you replaced all the parts except the ICM which is below the driver's hood hinge. That could quite possibly be the issue. Take note that 94 and later systems require a black ICM; not a grey one.
After all that I personally would be looking at the computer at that point. A computer from a junkyard truck is always suspect unless you heard the truck it came out of running; there's always a reason why trucks are parked there.
With all the new ignition parts the ICM or a connection are prime suspects for no spark.
No fuel, you have to go through the whole f/p circuit to make sure power is getting where it belongs and back to ground - after that the pump becomes suspect.
Bear in mind that sometimes brand new parts are NFG right out of the box; don't eliminate something as not possibly being the problem just because it's new.