Gremlin on the loose
#1
12-24-2015, 05:08 PM
Gremlin on the loose
So I am looking for any info on testing my heater/fan circuit.
I have the usual problem with the fan failing on all but high speed then complete failure. I have pulled the blower motor, resistor control switch, and checked the fuse. The fuse has full power but the power @ the control switch and blower connector read 1.8 volts. I did a test on the switch and get continuity on only two positions. The ground resistor module looks good other than the usual patina on the surfaces. Nothing burnt, nothing out of the ordinary so it seems.
After looking over the schematic, and getting full voltage at the fuse block, I don't think the ignition is the issue as everything else that runs through it is working fine. Does anyone have any experience chasing this problem?
I did find the blower motor tight to spin by hand so I used a series of cleaners to flush the motor housing, followed with a squirt of oil to the bearing. A mechanic friend suggested drilling a hole in the nipple on the housing to lube the back side of the bearing if need be.
Does anyone know what voltages I should be getting at the plug for the speed control and if there is a test for the resistor? I read a posting somewhere that Steve83 said something about getting voltages at the switch and whether not it is the ignition switch or the resistor, but no where can I find info on how much or if there is any reason for bleed off to other places within the harness.
The blower spins with less drag and I will give it a test here to see if that did the trick. Wondering about using some jumpers in the switch plug to see if I can get lower speeds to function. These ford schematics in the DYI manuals don't offer much support info and don't even list the heater system so you have to search through the pages to find it. Clymer you suck by the way.
I have the usual problem with the fan failing on all but high speed then complete failure. I have pulled the blower motor, resistor control switch, and checked the fuse. The fuse has full power but the power @ the control switch and blower connector read 1.8 volts. I did a test on the switch and get continuity on only two positions. The ground resistor module looks good other than the usual patina on the surfaces. Nothing burnt, nothing out of the ordinary so it seems.
After looking over the schematic, and getting full voltage at the fuse block, I don't think the ignition is the issue as everything else that runs through it is working fine. Does anyone have any experience chasing this problem?
I did find the blower motor tight to spin by hand so I used a series of cleaners to flush the motor housing, followed with a squirt of oil to the bearing. A mechanic friend suggested drilling a hole in the nipple on the housing to lube the back side of the bearing if need be.
Does anyone know what voltages I should be getting at the plug for the speed control and if there is a test for the resistor? I read a posting somewhere that Steve83 said something about getting voltages at the switch and whether not it is the ignition switch or the resistor, but no where can I find info on how much or if there is any reason for bleed off to other places within the harness.
The blower spins with less drag and I will give it a test here to see if that did the trick. Wondering about using some jumpers in the switch plug to see if I can get lower speeds to function. These ford schematics in the DYI manuals don't offer much support info and don't even list the heater system so you have to search through the pages to find it. Clymer you suck by the way.
#2
01-01-2016, 12:14 AM
Senior Member