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-   -   1988 AOD Shaking in third gear (https://www.f150online.com/forums/pre-1997-models/488357-1988-aod-shaking-third-gear.html)

zjnovak 07-09-2013 03:11 PM

1988 AOD Shaking in third gear
 
I just recently purchased an 88 F150. It's the XLT with the 5.0L V8 and automatic trans with overdrive. Just recently my truck started shaking violently in third gear. I believe I have the AOD trans (4 spd w/over drive). The shifter was feeling sloppy, and it would shift from park to reverse with the engine off and the keys out. Additionally, the engine would not start in neutral. I had went under the truck and adjusted the shift linkage going from the steering column down to the drivers side of the transmission. I tested it out and it worked perfect. It would shift from "park" down to "1" without any issues. I could also start the truck in neutral now.

Just last night when my sister was driving the truck I had noticed a huge shake around 25 mph. We got home and I took it around the block to see if I could get it to start shaking again. As soon as it hit third gear, around 25 mph/ 1200 RPM it would start to shake badly. If I gave it more gas, the shaking would go away. If I coasted, the shaking would just go away again.

This morning I reversed my adjustments and it appears to still be shaking. Not as bad, but its still there. I also tried adjusting the TV cable exactly how it says on youtube (the video that everybody seems to recommend).

Truck info:
1988, 302 5.0L
137K on the clock
Engine and trans both gone through at 110k/December of 2011
Only new parts were a power steering pump/lines and a new master cylinder for the brakes.
Prev. owner says new fuel pumps and filter put in with the rebuild.
The current spark plugs are autolite's, so I dont know if they were changed when the engine was gone through.

Any suggestions are appreciated. I plan on doing plugs/wires soon but the plugs are rusted in so it will take some time.

glc 07-09-2013 06:29 PM

If the plugs are rusted in I'd say that they are way overdue.

zjnovak 07-09-2013 06:52 PM

I figured that's part of it. I ran a test for codes and came up with 67,47,31,46, and 24

Need4racin 07-09-2013 07:59 PM

if shift pattern is sloppy check the cable for damage. Or a bent shift arm off the column on the engine bay side near firewall. A heat gun is best way to remove the bushing. shaking may not be the trans. Btw fluid needs changed every 30k, and make sure it has atleast a 11x7 trans cooler. Considering adding a remote filter setup for the trans. Will keep the fluid clean and make the trans last 300k+ miles.

zjnovak 07-09-2013 11:46 PM

Shifter is nice and smooth, and easy to shift. The bushings appeared to be OK, but I could be wrong.

What's the best filter and trans fluid to use? I'm assuming a good brand fluid and a Motorcraft filter?

I'm going to order a Haynes manual, but until it arrives I'm doing my best using the internet and forums. I am pretty good with engines (work on motorcycles and do oil changes, brakes, etc.) but have never really had to diagnose a problem like this one.

zjnovak 07-10-2013 12:09 AM

Forgot to ad this in the last post. But what's a decent remote filter kit? I see them online for +/- $40. I'm looking for one preferably with the temp gauge.

Need4racin 07-10-2013 07:01 AM

internal filter really never needs changed. I wouldn't even drop the pan. syphon the fluid out with a harbor freight suction pump.

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4970/17326 use a fl1a

glc 07-10-2013 07:18 AM

The torque converter should have a drain plug. I'd drop the pan and drain the TC.

zjnovak 07-10-2013 09:41 PM

Fixed the issue. It was cyl #4's plug wire shorting out on the exhaust manifold. New motorcraft plugs and wires put in today. She runs great!

As for the trans filter, there was a B&M kit that I was looking at for $35. If I tap into the return line, what else will I need to buy along with the kit? Thanks


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