'92 F150 won't start...
 

I have a '92 F150, 5.0, EFI, dual tank, five speed, 4x4, long bed, extended cab. She won't start. Starter turns, engine cranks, but won't fire up. Fuel pump works. No spark. I replaced the coil and the module, still wouldn't start, but after I grounded the fuel pump lead on the test connector and heard the relays clicking, then she started and ran just fine, went to the gas station and filled both tanks, started back up and ran fine, came home and parked... Next day, she won't start again. I tried grounding the fuel pump lead again, to no avail. I kicked the plastic panel next to the parking brake pedal, out of frustration, and after that she started, but only ran for about a minute and died again. Now she won't start back up at all. You can still hear the fuel pump running from under the truck. She isn't getting any spark. No juice out of the coil whatsoever. I'm flabbergasted.
Help!
(PS, she has 189,000+ miles, new clutch two years ago, new plugs about 5,000 miles ago...) She's a beautiful lady and I love her, I can't figure what's wrong. Could it be the EEC? Could it be a loose connection at the EEC?

Most likely your problem is the pickup coil inside the distributor. First check to see if you are getting power to the coil through one of the small wires that hooks onto the coil with the ignition switch TURNED ON.

If you are getting power to the coil go to Oreillys and get a NEW distributor, rebuilt distributors are junk. Or you could disassemble your old distributor and replace the pickup coil in it. Don't trust your luck with a rebuilt distributor.

Thanx. I'm gonna go check that now.

There's 12 volts to the hot side of the coil. I have a few more tests to follow proceedure according to the book.

Tests point to a wiring issue.

The section of the harness from the distributor to the junction block checks out, except for a grey wire with an orange stripe on it, and then there is what looks like a fusable link going into a bare wire with tin foil wrapped around it, into another fusable link. that's something I've never seen before, almost looks like a coaxial cable. Weird.

might rent a fuel pressure tester. you should have about 60 pounds if not look into a inline fuel pump it will be on the drivers side of the crossmember for the transmission

Spirit Bear has a 1992, 1989 was the last year for the inline fuel pump. Spirit Bear has a V8, I believe the fuel pressure should be about 45, the 6 cylinder fuel pressure would be about 60.

No, fuel is defiitely not the issue. It's an open circuit in a wire somewhere between the plug that plugs into the distributor, the EEC, and the ignition switch. The pain in the nuts is tracking down which wire it is. There's over a mile of wire in this truck. Stator/pickup coil is good, module & coil are brand new, fuses, relays and diode check out ok. I can't afford to pay someone else $93 an hour to diagnose it for me, so that leaves me to diagnose it myself, in between other things. It's an intermittant problem, because when I jiggled the harness a couple times, it started and ran fine, until after I let her sit an hour, then back to the same problem. At least she isn't sitting in mud up to the axles. (Gotta look at the bright side.) Sad thing is, If this was an older vehicle, before they started using computers, like, say, a '78 Bronco for instance, I would have had her back on the road already.

my apologies i was looking at differnt post, and backed it up too far.

Right now I have the distributor out, thinking the hall-effect magnet/PIP/stator may be causing the problem since the tach has not been functioning properly for some time, (Tach reads between 2000-2500 rpm at idle) and I also removed the EEC to visually inspect it. The outer case has some rust, but the circuit board inside looks brandy-new shiny & clean. How do I test the EEC with it out of the truck?