Hello all,

I'm hoping someone will be able to help guide me in the right direction towards getting my truck running again.

I'm currently having a no spark issue. It has a very strong start, just doesn't crank. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination.

I bought the truck from a friend two months ago. There have never been any problems with it in the past. It ran great for the first 3 days. The 4th day, I got in my truck to go to work and it started, cranked, trembled and shook, then shut off. Now it no longer cranks. Strong start though.

Here is what I have replaced:

-New dist. cap.
-New dist. rotor
-Known working distributor (pulled from a friend's truck that was working)
-New battery
-New Ignition Coil
-New Spark plugs and wires
-New ICM (TFI)
-New Fuel Pump in rear tank
-New fuel filter

Here is the results from my testing:

When turning the key to the ON position, I can hear a click, but no other noise from either fuel pump. The old fuel pump i pulled from the rear tank when I replaced it. But it tested good once I had it out. So I don't know why they are not priming, there is nothing wrong with them from what i can tell. it would be odd for both of my fuel pumps to go out at the same exact time too.

I have power going to the Coil, coming through the coil wire to the distributor, but nothing coming out of the distributor at all. I took the cap off when trying to crank and the rotor rotates. i was told that means the timing is ok.

I've hooked up an HEI spark tester to each plug wire and have gotten no spark.

I've sprayed starter fluid directly into the intake while trying to crank and nothing changed.

I've checked all of the fuses in the fuse box in the driver compartment and in the engine compartment. They are all good.

I hooked up an LED tester and confirmed that I am getting the Switching Signal sent to my Coil. ( I think I did it correctly. The LED blinked whether i was trying to crank the truck or not, but I was told the only part that mattered was what happened when trying to crank anyways.)

I have been told that it could be the PIP, but my understanding is that is part of the distributor assembly. I replaced that with no changes.

Radio, Interior lights, headlights all work when they key is in the ON position. The ignition switch where the key goes in seems to spin freely (The silver/metal outer ring. The actual part where the key slides into does not spin).


I have been researching, testing and replacing for 6 weeks now with absolutely no luck. This is starting to get frustrating


UPDATE: I replaced the PCM and now my fuel pumps can be heard priming. However, I still have a no spark issue remaining that I can't seem to figure out. Where do I go from here?

 

Sounds to me like it's cranking but not starting. Gotta watch the terminology.

Now that you hear the fuel pumps, have you confirmed you actually have fuel pressure at the rail?

 

I'll need to make a trip to the parts store to get a fuel pressure tester. I hook it up to the valve stem on the fuel line under the hood, right before it hits the fuel injection loop right?

And yeah, I'm sure I have, and will probably do again, used the wrong terminology to describe something. Just figuring this stuff out as I go.

 

Before you go get a tester, you can see if it has any pressure at all just by momentarily depressing the core with a screwdriver.

 

Can i do this with the Key in the ON position, or do I need a helper to be trying to start the truck when i depress it?

 

no key on. and holy have you been wasting money throwing parts.

You need to find out if you have spark or fuel.

 

Just turn the key on and depress it after you hear the pumps stop priming.

 

Alright, i pressed in on the valve stem and it shot fuel out about an inch past the valve stem. Sorry for taking so long, we had a bad storm come through and knocked our internet out for nearly a day.

 

Okay - you can rule out fuel, unless the injectors aren't firing. You could check them with a noid light.

 

I have a test light. Can I use it as described in this picture? Or will I need to go purchase a noid light specifically for this.

 

He said that there is no spark.
You need to test everything that has to do with spark....

 

I know what he said - but it wouldn't hurt to see if the injectors are firing. If they are, be careful you don't flood it. If they aren't, it may or may not be related and it might help someone more familiar with the system with the diagnosis.

 

Just trying to keep him in the right direction

 

Alright, I have tested all of the injectors, and they passed. What is my next step?

 

its something with distributor. if coil is truely sending a spark and distributor isn't distributing the spark there's something wrong there. Hopefully someone with knowledge of steps can step in...