Should I Purchase This '93 F-150?
#3
First check the frame paying particular attention to the steering box mounts, rear spring mounts, and cross members. Check the front spring coil towers and the radiator support for rust. The cab supports are another area that tend to rust.
That being said the truck looks decent and it would probably be a good learning experiance since Ford parts are relatively cheap and most body repair is labor intensive but not real expensive.
Calculate what it will cost you to get the truck on the road and decide if you can afford it. Back in my day when I was 17 in 1968 I had a Sunday paper route and cut lawns to get my 48 Chrysler on the road. Biggest expense was insurance.
The price of $400 is fair but it can't hurt to barter or even work out a sweat equity payment.
Good Luck
rikard
That being said the truck looks decent and it would probably be a good learning experiance since Ford parts are relatively cheap and most body repair is labor intensive but not real expensive.
Calculate what it will cost you to get the truck on the road and decide if you can afford it. Back in my day when I was 17 in 1968 I had a Sunday paper route and cut lawns to get my 48 Chrysler on the road. Biggest expense was insurance.
The price of $400 is fair but it can't hurt to barter or even work out a sweat equity payment.
Good Luck
rikard
#7
As far as the truck, if he's asking $400 try $300 or $350. If he doesn't accept, pay $400.
If the engine and tranny are good, go for it. Then get a new bed, fenders and bumper. Check the frame and all of the suspension to make sure they're not rusted thru. If it's just surface rust, paint it with POR 15.
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#10
save your money and get something that gets better than 12 mpg. fuel injection thats been sitting for that long could turn into a nightmare and cost you a small fortune. and learning about a older fuel injection system wont have any benefit done the road, seeing as they have improved so much.