Broken SPark Plug help!!
 

So the 2nd plug back on the passenger side broke off in the head. The threads are about all that is left in it. Anyone got any great cheap suggestions?:(

in a 92 f150?

could try an easy out

yeah, the plugs hadn't been changed in about 10 years or so and the truck had been doin a lot of setting the last 5 so. It was just about rusted through and it was in there pretty good

so the nut part of the plug broke off? in that case it should be hallow if not get the porcelain out and then it should be basically like a sleeve in there and an easy out should work

I picked on up at Sears when I took the Craftsman ratchet we broke today on the plugs in. Going to try and back it out tomorrow, WD-40'd it up and yeah its just the hollow threads so hopefully no big.

well the head is coming off and heading to the machine shop

That sucks, at least these older trucks are easier and cheaper to work on

the fuel lines are being a big pain in the ass, probably won't be able to have the truck up and running til monday. sucks

yeah when i pulled the engine out of a 93 i used a sawzall worked great haha

Be sure you use the correct tool on the fuel lines: the large 4-way scissor shown here is best for the fittings at the fuel rail.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...elfittings.jpg . https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...nefittings.jpg

Push the tool into the fitting and hold it there. Then pull the large collar away from the tool. If the O-rings have adhered, it will take some force. Once you get the fitting apart, apply clean motor oil liberally to the O-rings.

Before putting the intake back on, read the TSB in this caption & if it's not done on your truck already, ask the machine shop how much they'll charge to tap a hole for you.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...il/pcvefis.jpg

So it took until 10pm, with the old Horse fighting me every step of the way with 20 years or rust and seized bolts and lines, but the head is off!! Going to see if we can get the broken plug out ourselves in the morning or if it has to go to a machine shop. I believe that while I have it this far apart will pull the other head, replace all the gaskets, and paint the exhaust manifolds and valve covers ford blue, and I may as well do the insulated intake stuff while I am here. At least with all new top end gaskets, plugs, wires, cap rotor, serpentene belt, in frame fuel filter, and the afore mentioned intake stuff she should be running like a raped ape by monday. Now for a beer and a bed.

Ouch that does suck. I hope you get the old "horse" on the road soon. BTW that's a good lookin truck! I hope everything works out. Good luck.

Don't paint the ex.man.s blue - it'll just burn, stink, flake off, and the flakes will help it rust. If you feel the need to paint them, use UHT paint after sandblasting them inside & out.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...tsmanifold.jpg

But it's really not necessary or beneficial.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...exmans9558.jpg

Make sure you have heat shields.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...tshieldsv8.jpg

shoot, I am going to have to get heat shields! Didn't paint anything yet. Still gotta do the in frame fuel filter, but she lives! The old Horse took me around the block and to the ATM to thank my neighbor for 2 days of wrenching help.Gotta adjust the timing and loosen and re-tighten the new exhaust manifold(the old one had a massive crack in it) to the exhaust got a nice leak where I tightened it up ****eyed. Probably need to change the new oil in a couple of days. Appreciate all the tips fellas.

You might be interested by the "Alignment" section of this caption:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...aust5.8l96.jpg

BTW
Ford didn't use "Ford Blue" after ~'79. Your engine is "Ford Grey", so when you paint things, that's the color to use.