Pre-1997 Models

Fuel Pump Slide Connector

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Old 04-13-2011, 09:28 PM
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Fuel Pump Slide Connector

Ok, I bought a new MotorCraft PF4 fuel pump. It comes with 2 different size slide terminals, one is 1/4" (grd) the other is 5/16" (pwr).

One of the previous owners cobbled the pigtail, so I went and got a new Ford pigtail, but it came without the terminals.

Anyone know where I can get a 5/16" slide receptacle for 10 guage wire?

88F150 4.9L
 

Last edited by 5Rangers; 04-14-2011 at 12:38 AM.
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Old 04-15-2011, 10:18 AM
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Junkyard, electronics store...

But if you're talking about the frame pump, you'd be better off just soldering the wires to the pump terminals - there's another connector a few inches away, and eliminating connectors eliminates resistance.
 
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
Junkyard, electronics store...

But if you're talking about the frame pump, you'd be better off just soldering the wires to the pump terminals - there's another connector a few inches away, and eliminating connectors eliminates resistance.
I went everywhere looking for the "5/16ths faston" connector, I could get one but would have to buy 10,000 from TYCO, so I made it better then factory. I enlarged the postioning hole on the 5/16 tab to accept a #6 screw and crimped a ring terminal on the power wire with shrink tubing to cover it, crimped a .250 faston connector on the ground wire with shrink tubing and all is good.

Now I need to run a tap in the mount holes as some previous cobbler stripped them out. Ah the joys of buying a 22 year old truck.

I will soon have fuel up to the engine bay and it will be time to fire it up.
Hopefully then I'll be able to get it in the garage and then I can give the forward tank the once over and not be in the street with my legs hanging out. A little at a time...

Ok, good news today, got the pump mounted, had to use some nut clips. Hooked up the fuel lines and fired it up. It ran a good long time and I even drove it for about an hour. Drives pretty good. Lot's of torque in that 6. When I shut it down I tried to start it under its own power without the battery charger to no avail. Slow intermittent crank. I got to looking around and found the bat positive cable attached to the solenoid pretty heavily corroded and very very hot. High resistance anyone? So I got a new batt cable and solenoid and will change in the morning and verify the grounds. Then I can get it in the garage and do the front tank.

I got the new solenoid and pos wire from napa but the solenoid was chinese and the wire was usa but didn't seem right, so I took them back and have both parts FoMoCo inbound, I took out the battery tray and bracket out and getting it sandblasted for paint. I got underneath and cleaned the main grounds and the pos wire going to the starter. Will do some wire repair as there is a wrong wire guage size ring connecter crimped right on the fusible link going to the solenoid, so I'll replace the link and put the correct ring connector on and replace a couple of other crappy looking splices in the area off the negative cable one going into a bundle and the other going to ground.

I replaced the fusible link, crimped a new ring connector and replaced a couple splices on the grd side, with shrink tubing on all repairs. Got the battery tray and bracket sand blasted, then painted and installed it with upgraded hardware. Replaced a couple of vacum lines that were cobbled up. The battery tested good so I installed the new solenoid and new posi cable, hooked the business up to the solenoind, turned the key and it fired right up. Put it in the driveway since the HOA was sending me love letters about it being in the street. Time to get the dash back together with the new F/R tank switch, get the new fuel pump relay socket in and mounted and move on to dropping the front tank for pump replacement.

I ended up pulling all the bezels off the dash pulling the radio, glovebox, ashtry,cleaning it all up, straightning out
and inspecting wire bundles and pulling out other cobblers aftermarket wires. Installed a new bushing on the neutral safety switch, pulled the cluster out and replaced blown missing bulbs, found the yellow check eng light bulb missing so now I have to track down the fault at some point because the light stays on all the time when running.

I pulled the front tank and got it all cleaned up and ready for paint, found that when I ran the engine the selector valve is bypassing fuel because fuel is dribbling out the front tank supply line while running, so new selector valve on order. My next task is to clean up and paint inside the frame rails where the tank mounts and get the area ready for reinstallation of the tank. I will have basically rebuilt the entire fuel supply system. Then is on to replacing the broken front emergency brake cable, looks like I have to remove the actuator with 2 nuts at the firewall and one bolt in the cabin.

Got the new selector valve today and installed it, problem solved. No more unwanted transfer. I was also cleaning inside the frame rails for painting in the area of the front tank. So I'm using easy off oven degreaser, the stuff works great. Next thing I know a city code enforcement guy pulls up and tells me I need to clean the waste water out of the street gutter. Pretty soom 2 police units. We all have a talk, needless to say, there I was with the wet vac, sucking up the water or face a $2k fine. Unreal. Pretty soon a fire truck shows up and they spray some stuff on the residue while I scrub with a brush. Guess I'll have to do my cleaning at night.
 

Last edited by 5Rangers; 05-05-2011 at 10:14 PM.



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