Rusted
 

Been staying busy working on the truck since i got it, tomorrow i'm doing the rear shocks. I was going tonight but everything is rusted solid. What would be the best way to get the nut off (haha) without risking breaking the bolt,(upper shock mount). Not really trying to put new brackets on too. Then changing out the rotors in the front.....any advice? Looks like a chore

And while im at it, how hard is it to change out the ball joints with only a tool set and floor jack? haha, or should i just pay the dude 350 for left and right side, upper and lowers.

Rotors are going to be a little more involved, but nothing too crazy, just gotta pack the bearings at the same time. You'll need the bearing seal when you do the job too, so make sure you buy them(~$1 each). The seals go on the back of the rotor, you'll ruin the ones you have now when you pull them off the old rotors (to get to the bearings). If you need more info on packing the bearings lemme know, I just did mine and it's easy, it was just a new thing for me, but way easy. Spray PB blaster on the nuts for as long as possible before you take the shock bolts off. I don't mean literally constantly spray them, but soak it, wait 30 min to an hour, soak it again, etc. The more you do this, the better (I live in AZ so I don't really need to do this much, but I've read of stories where people have done this for weeks!). I've never personally done the ball joints on these type of trucks, but I'd never pay 350 for a job. Do it yourself and learn more, and trust me, you'll understand so much more abnout how your truck works. You will most likely need a ball joint press (looks like a c clamp on steroids), Autozone or checker normally rent them to you for free (you front the money to buy the tool, then when your done you return it for a full refund). An impact wrench will be your friend, but not NEEDED...if there's a harbor freight around you go buy an electric impact for $42. Seriously the best money I ever spent on tools. I know harbor freight is crap and you get what you pay for, but you\me aren't a shop, for how much we use them, it'll work just great(I've had mine for 2 years with no problems, it's taken everything I throw at it).


Edit: and I just realized you have a 4x4!...mine is a 2x4 so I'm not 100% sure how the rotors are gonna go on yours....sorry lol

Haha, well, took a look at steve's diagrams, and some his photo's, and it looks like i'll be repacking the bearings. Another question i have, 4x4 related; can i replace the universal joints in the front axle shafts? They're done. If i cant, where i can i find replacement axles for a decent price?

The upper shock mount has a stud welded in - not a bolt. And I've never heard of one breaking, but use penetrating oil, just like with any other rusted fastener. Then use anti-seize lube when you put it back on. If you do manage to break one, they're not expensive or difficult to change.

Everything about changing TTB rotors is in that Brakes & Hubs album.

Ball joints are virtually impossible to change without a GOOD ball joint press. The craptastic ones Harbor Freight sells (and that most parts stores loan out) aren't worth the hassle since they usually bend on the first use, and never line up after that. I went all-out and bought the Snap-On press, which is in the Front Diff album.

You can also use a BJ press to change u-joints, including every u-joint on these trucks.