Rotor/Hub Assembly Question?
 

The rotors on my '95 F-150, 351w, 4WD, RABS, pre-04/95 build, are worn below spec & must be replaced. My question is: do I need just the rotor, or the entire rotor/hub assembly? Auto parts houses show both for this series but they seem to be about the same price for either the rotor alone, or a rotor/hub assembly? The Ford manual I have does not seem to address this issue but it does not show a separated hub:rotor.

Are all F-150 4WD front hubs 2-piece, or is the hub integral with the rotor on some? Does the rotor easily separate from the hub?

I hate to tear the whole front end apart & then find I have the wrong assembly. Would be a long hike to parts store.

Thanks in advance for advice.

Jerry

I have seen them both ways. my 95 150 has the one peace ones. when it ever comes to be time to change them I will buy new bearings and seals also. just pop the wheel off and check before you order the parts.


:bandito:
Bruce

You only NEED the rotors & inner wheel seals, but it might be cheaper/easier for you to buy the assembly. Click my signature link & look in the Brakes & Hubs album.

Many thanks Steve & Bruce.

Yes, I did check your photos Steve (I ALWAYS do that first) but I was afraid (based on folder headings) the split hub/rotor depicted might be from an 83 (or some other non 86-95) FSB & might not be applicable to a '95 F-150. Also the one depicted included a tone ring indicating 4W ABS of course. So I was still not sure after reviewing your excellent guiding pics.

Per advice, I will probably buy the assembly since I'm not sure I can effectively separate hub/rotor without destroying hub or lugs. And there's apparently minimal difference in cost. Plus, I don't know what my bearings look like, but the assembly comes with new races so if my bearings/races are bad & have to be replaced, I'm already ahead by that much.

I just did this to my pickup last weekend. Ours are pretty much the same except I have a 302. I purchased the rotors only ($96 street, $68 web, $50 for me, a piece at NAPA) and got ones made in Canada. Premium grade rotors are either USA or Canada made. I highly suggest going with these. There are other variations which include the rotor and hub assembly as a two piece to replace yours, and a one piece assembly as well.

When you get down to the rotor, hammer out the lug stems and then the rotor and hub assembly will come apart. Make sure the surface of the rotor and the back surface of the hub assembly (it will be rusty) is smooth and clean. When you pound the lug stems back in, I'd cover the hole where all of the grease is so rust dust doesn’t fall in as you are pounding. Make sure that you pound those in there really good and that there is no play and looseness on all stems.

If you get one piece rotor and hub assembly, you know you wouldn't have to worry about if your hub assembly and rotor are properly flush against each other. Yet, I don't know how tight I have my stems in. This is why I get the rotors only. Along with the added security, you save some money from not purchasing the unnecessary hub assembly and you also get better metal.

Repack the bearing and lube up everything very nicely. Be very sure to follow the torque specs on the locking nut to have the rotor properly sit and not have too much drag. The rest from here is to put everything in, lube well and test it out.

I hope I was able to give you some good information. I will tell you I learned the hard way getting China made metal as my truck loves to eat these rotors!

Csonka, excellent advice, & much-appreciated tips. Will heed.

I, too, have had a serious problem with rotor warpage on this vehicle & I suspect it is because, being a foolish cheapskate, I've taken the truck to shade-tree guys to get a job done cheap, & ended up getting a cheaply done job. Complete with flimsey overseas rotors that warp quickly. This is the first time I've undertaken to do it myself. Plan is to purchase either FoMoCo rotors, or NAPA, & stay away from the cheap stuff.

Thanks again.

JLF
Other than the freaky '87-early 88 w/factory manual flange-style hub locks, all '80-96 Broncos & F-series use basically the same brakes & hubs. It only says "Steve 83's 1983 Bronco" at the top of every page because that's the SMN registry that the photos & diagrams are uploaded into. That has nothing to do with the content.

Check auto zone, the rotors for a 79 were $26 and the hub/rotors were $25:banana: and that might even be the same ones that you would need.

separating the hub from the rotor is easy, just pound the studs out (if you are going to reuse the studs put a nut on them first.

I think I would check those out real close to see where they come from and who makes them . why go to all the trouble to do a good brake job only to see it last a few months. and it is the safety of your self and even family and friends that you are betting 50 dollers on.

if that price is for good USA made rotors buy them and let me know I will be up to get a truck lode. if they are chinese Ill pass and you should also.

we get way to much of that stuff down here in Mexico


:bandito:
Bruce

I guess I'll never know. I purchased a set of hub/rotor assemblies from NAPA for $102 each. Little pricey perhaps, but they are good Canadian-made products that seem to have a lot more meat on them than some cheaper ones I looked at from Advance. I'm hoping these won't warp within 18 months like the last set. I'll let you know in a couple of years.

Since the most recent Supreme Court ruling forcing the USEPA to enforce greenhouse gas emission limitations on the auto industry, I'm determined to hang on to this truck till I croak, because we'll never see its likes again in this country! Thanks Al Gore.

Many thanks for everyones helpful suggestions. Much appreciated.

Jerry

Since those are on my wheeling rig I am running them! It rarely gets above 20 mph. I know a lot of people who are running them on their daily drivers too. They are not worth turning, though.

Don't hope - read the caption of this:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/...4lugtorque.jpg