So I've been having fuel delivery problems in my 95' 4.9 I6. I was reading in my repair manual, that you need to bleed out air when replacing fuel filters. Well wouldn't you know, but these problems started happening soon after I replaced my filter. Anyone know how to get the air out of the fuel line?? The repair book says I need a T80L-9974-a tool but I have no clue where to get that. Google doesn't help. Furthermore, I'm not certain on where the purge value, or whatever it may be, might be found.

UC

 

If it's a diesel, yes, you should purge the air from the fuel lines, but I've never had any problems like that on any fuel injected gas engine. Depress the schrader valve somewhere on the fuel rail and verify that you got fuel up at the rails, if so, you should be good to go.

 

After changing a gas fuel filter, all you need to do is just cycle the key a few times.

 

Not what I wanted to hear

The truck 'bucks' when I have the gas floored (Off the line, on the highway, going up hills). It's like it's not getting enough fuel. But I have dual tanks and it happens on both. Since they both have their own fuel pump, that can't be a problem. I hope it's not the injectors but I dont know what else it could be.

 

Plugs? Wires? Cap? Rotor? Timing?

 

Sounds a lot like dirty injectors. Does your truck ever develop what feels like a slight stumble when cruising around 35-40 mph at light throttle? Is there a non-rhythmic miss at idle sometimes? Those are two very common signs of dirty injectors. The bad news is your truck (and mine) are notorious for having dirty injector issues.

I'll tell you what I did, that both confirmed I was having injector problems, and that also helped eliminate most of the issues. I went to Kmart and bought two large bottles of their injector cleaner. I don't recall the brand name, but the bottle was gray, and came in two sizes. Anyway, I took the two large bottles and when one of my tanks got down to almost empty, I put in both bottles, and added $5 worth of gas (that would be more like $10 worth of gas at todays prices). I then drove around town for about 30 minutes, and went home and parked the truck. The next day, I took it out for a drive, and the difference was night and day. I went and filled up that tank with gas, and never had the hesitation or stumble issue again.

 

I use JB brothers injector cleaner in my 302s

Adrianspeeder

 

I'll pickup some injector cleaner when I go to the parts store here this afternoon.

PKRWUD, the answer your questions is, I don't think so.

It's probably also time to replace my spark plugs and while I'm at it, I'll test resistance on the wires and take a peak at the distributor cap. My repair manual says nothing about needing to replace those routinely or how to tell if they're bad aside from the resistance on the wires.

 

Spark plugs should be replaced if there are signs of wear on the electrode ground strap (the "claw" shaped thing that you bend to set the plug gap). The distributor cap should be replaced if there are signs of corrosin or wear at the plug wire contact tips (inside the cap), or if there is discoloration on the plug wire contacts on the outside of the cap (where you stick the plug wires on to the cap). The cap and rotor should always be replaced as a set.