'07 CV Shaft Replacement
 

Hey All,
Have 106K and my driver CV shaft needs to be replaced.
I have a set of FOX 2.0s on there now.
Do any of you guys have a recommendation on a replacement brand.
Will the lift effect the lifespan of the CVs?
Thanks,

Yes, a lift can be rough on CV's.

For quality, OEM Motorcraft is hard to beat. but those are $250+ per axle. Considering you can get a reman with lifetime warranty for 60 bucks I might go that way, knowing you will be changing them out from time to time.

Thanks,
I have about 80k on it since the spacers. I had a 2" hell bent spacer then the Fox units about 15k ago.
The boot split first. Is that impending doom when that happens? The driver side is still ok as far as the boot is concerned. Should I replace the passenger just because of the boot?
Can I "double boot" the new one?
Any thoughts on ball joints? OE or aftermarket? Does someone make a better than stock joint?
Should I replace the ball joints while doing the CV?
Thanks,

Once the boot splits, it's done for. Contaminants are going to get in there and it's only a matter of time before it will start clicking. You can't double boot them.

I wouldn't necessarily replace the ball joints till they show measurable wear. When you do, I'd use Moog greaseable joints.

Thanks.
Just picked up a fuel pump drive module at a dealer for 137.76 with our 6.5% sales tax.
I was quoted $332 plus tax for a new Motorcraft CV shaft.
Does that sound reasonable? It is pretty far off from $250. Should I look online for it?

Rockauto.com, stay out of the dealer.

Why not get a $60 lifetime warranty reman from Oreilly?

Ah ha!
O'Reilly has a $65 refurb and a $75 new made by Precision (she said they are American made) with a lifetime warranty.
My mechanic said that the aftermarket stuff has a softer less durable boot than that of the Motorcraft part. Any truth to this? Especially w/the leveling kit that keeps the shaft at a tough angle all the time. With a $250 dollar savings I guess who cares right.

Go over to O'Reilly and see if they have both in stock - if they do, look at them carefully and see how they feel and look. If they have an OEM in stock, compare that one too.

Yo mean a refurbed OEM?
Will it have FoMoCo on it somewhere?

Ok, so the clicking has begun. With the wheels straight and the brakes on, i hear a clicking almost like a horse walking on pavement (a hollow sound). If I get under the truck, will I be able to move it around w/my hands?
Do these ever "let go" and come apart while driving????? What a mess that would make.
Any thoughts.....

Change it NOW, it's time. Yes, they definitely can come apart. Grab and wiggle and twist.

So I crawled under the truck this morning and the shaft (pass side) w/the ripped boot wiggles very, very little. The driver side w/a good boot wiggles maybe 1/8" back and forth.....
Not sure where the clicking noise is coming from I just assumed the shaft w/the ripped boot. Can the truck be parked in such a way that the joint is under tension at a particular angle and would wiggle if I rolled the truck a foot or two?
O'Reily's has new cv's for $80 bucks (a few posts ago they were $75) manufactured by Precision w/a lifetime warranty.
Maybe do both?
I looked on youtube and saw how easy it was to replace. W/a leveling kit, do you think there is enough room to remove it w/out unbolting the lower strut mount on the lower control arm?

So I installed both cv shafts over the weekend and they went pretty smooth.
Did the pass side first then a test ride then the driver side. Watched the 1A auto video on you tube and they did a pass side which is easier. My truck has a skid plate and I had to drop it to get the driver side shaft out. I also had to loosen both struts top nuts to move it out far enough.
All in all no big deal.....my local dealer wants $900 for the pair.