But see, here's the thing on the money debate; you guys can't see the forest for the trees. Amsoil is the cheaper route, period, if you use it as entended. The SSO's have been proven numerous times over by UOA's that they'll go the advertised 25,000 successfully. Yea, yea, I know, Takeda's going to jump in here and bash the marketing department instead of the product, but the facts are out there. When you factor this in, including shipping, Amsoil is cheaper than any other oil running a manufacturers recommended change interval. If you're not going to do that then yes, there are cheaper routes. So in that case, spend your money somewhere else. I'm quite certain you two are savvy shoppers in every aspect of your life and don't waste a single penny on frivoulous items just because that's what you want to spend it on!

 

^^ X2 I fully agree, Galaxy !!

 

I suppose the "soap box" thing is just venting. No Corporation is sqeakey clean, and at the risk of stating the obvious: Some are worse than others.

It's how it holds up under UOA's scrutiny, is the main ingredient.

It is posible to do *one* UOA and find your sweetspot on this regimen. This may bankrupt the piggy bank.

Now, does Amsoil always do 25k/ one year? No.

It depends on many factors. It can, and many times no. It is dependent on the vehicle/motor, the ambient temp. conditions, and driving conditions,etc.

Is the 25k oil always an cost effective alternative vs Dino/ (group 3)synthetic? No.

UOA + math.

 

Exactly MLD, I was 'venting' here. I couldn't agree with you more on the 25,000 thing, and Amsoil in particular. I would love to use Amsoil if I could (regardless of the price). If I drove a lot it would be the more economical route , but, I can't due to my driving habits, short runs and it sits for days or even weeks at a time. I did use it for a while, however, after reading up on more info and 'Labnerd's' posts (which are genuine I believe). I have gone back to the M/C blend for now. I just get sick and tired of some individuals that seem to have an axe to grind and believe that their word is gospel and everyone had better listen up. Now if they can show some personal credentials that says that they do know what they are talking about it would be a different story. But, there are some out there that just want to get their beliefs out there no matter how many pages of threads it takes.

 

I personally have no axe to grind but it is fun to antagonize those who think Amsoil is the Jesus Christ of oil. Amsoil can save you a few bucks on oil if you can go the full 25,000 miles and recieve the membership discounts of 15-25% even including shipping. If you don't drive 25,000 miles per year then theres no savings.

 

I don't think it's the "Jesus Christ" of oil, but I do think it's as good as any other oil out there and it's NOT a "scam". If you want to spend that kind of money, it certainly won't HURT your engine. If I were still doing my own oil changes, I'd be using it, and I'd be using the Signature oil and Amsoil filter. I'd probably put their bypass filter kit on it too. I do have an Amsoil drop-in air filter. I *WAS* an Amsoil dealer many years ago. I use Mobil 1 EP and a M1 filter because that's the best oil and filter my preferred local oil change joint offers. My tranny and diff have BG synthetics in them because that's what the oil change joint carries. I pay 90 bucks for an oil change - and I do run extended intervals.

With all that said, if you are going to change your oil as per Ford's recommendation or more often, the absolute best oil and filter for the money is Motorcraft. I personally don't care how much an oil change costs me, I have more important things to worry about.

 

+1 As previously posted! And don't forget to use a Motorcraft oil filter.

 

^^^what he said. motorcraft is what i use in all my fords and its not too bad on price. good oil for what we need it for. and yes, oil arguments will never be resolved.

i have contemplated switching to valvoline or mobile one for my 06 stang GT due to it being modified and that fact that i put full slicks on it and take it to the track every other weekend and race it hard. however, most the guys on my mustang forum still run motorcraft, even on blown or n20 motors with no problems so i will most likely stick with motorcraft. its hard to beat.

one other note, and it may have already been mentioned here, but the variable valve timing on the 3v 5.4s is just like the 4.6 3Vs in the stangs. it is controlled by the oil pressure. so be careful switching oils and i dang sure wouldnt put anything other than 5w-20 in it. been some guys on the mustang forum that have had some issues with that.

and for what its worth, you couldnt pay me to put Amsoil in my cars.

 

also, i would never, ever, even in a 1000 years let any of my vehicles go more than 5k before changing oil. i dont care if God himself stamps the brand.

mine are changed every 3 to never more than 5k, closer to 3k. i realize that may be overkill, but i still use the old 3k rule regardless of what the book says.

engines are just too expensive to be cheaping out on oil. i dont put E10 fuel in them either, but thats a whole different argument.

 

+1

 

Check out this Scamsoil Technical Bulletin regarding sludge prone engines. Any idea why they recommend the manufacturer's oil change interval, and use XL,
which is one of their API certified oils? Why don't you think they would recommend Signature Series, which is supposed to be their best oil, which isn't API certified?

Simple answer: Manufacturer's warranty





It sounds like they have been in some warranty issues!!!

 

^^^^WTF?! consumer reports identified engines that are prone to sludge?

newsflash consumer reports:

ALL ENGINES ARE PRONE TO SLUDGE. PERIOD.

Especially if:

1. its a high mileage engine (like carbon deposits in cylinder heads and built up gunk in fuel injectors, sludge is a natural occurring phenomenon. you can do things to slow it or try to prevent it, but not stop it completely)

2. it wasnt maintained right (ie: oil not changed regularly or trying to go 25k on amsoil.
3. a cheap, $---ty, low quality brand of oil was used.
4. contamination


consumer reports doesnt know jack crap about cars, let alone oil.


and yes Amsoil, im sure consumer reports endorse synthetics for creating less sludge. synthetics are better overall than conventional which is one reason most manufactures use it and specify it for replacement oil. conventional sucks. we have known that for well over a decade now....duh. in fact, you dont really see any conventional oil endorsements anymore. synthetic is the oil of the new millenium

 

I totally agree! One more point: In a conversation with a Blackstone technician several years ago, he commented that a UOA would not detect
oil sludging.

 

Check out this fine print in the Scamsoil warranty! Their sleezy lawyers have written it in a way that they will not be responsible for engine failure if you
don't follow the OEM's written recommendations. For instance, if you use their
Signature Series, and run it 10K miles (non API oil, run beyond the OEM's recommended OCI) and you have an engine failure, Scamsoil will not cover
the failure, and the OEM won't cover it either B.T.W..









Here is Mobil 1's warranty. Notice how straightforward it is. No BS about racing, or aviation applications:

 

well, all i can say to that is the only way i have ever detected it in the past was while tearing the motor down, usually with the intent to overhaul but i change my oil like am i supposed to and use good quality oil so what little sludge i may find has never been the cause of failure. for my engines, it usually is the piston rings that fail. i have never had a bearing failure so i think that is testimony to the level of quality of my oil maintainence standards. standards that have never, and will never include amsoil.

bottom line for me. i use motorcraft. ford designed it for their engines, they should know what to use. if i cant find it i will use mobile 1, valvoline, or castrol gtx. if i walk into walmart and find that the zombie apocolypse happened and the four previous have been raided, i will go with quaker state or go to oreillys for royal purple. no amsoil and damn sure no pennzoil will ever disgrace my engines oil pan.