I've been wanting to regear my truck for a while. Now that the wife has some new diamond earrings, its time to add some real mods to the truck.

Ive decided that I'll probably never go larger than a 33 inch tire on stock rims with a AS or a 5100 level. Even with that being said, I think my truck's worst enemy is the 3.55 gear ratio included. Its such a dog from a takeoff and works way too hard to get this mass moving.

I've watched about a dozen man shows where they do ring and pinion setups. I've read the tutorial on pirate 4x4 and seen other how to's here and there.

The question is can someone like me (average joe) really set up gears in their driveway? I have all of the hand tools and air tools that I need to do the job. If I need a socket or a dial gauge, I'll get it. Jegs even has a pinion depth tool for under $100.
I've pulled axles out of 8.8's and 9inches before and that doesn't concern me. It's $600 in materials and $800 in labor if I dont get it right.

Anyone on here done this in a driveway with average mechanical skills?
Anyone tried it first hand and failed miserably?

I'm looking at a set of yukon's (based on member's recomendations) in the 4.1 ratio. Randy's ring and pinion has them for $630 plus shipping (give or take a few bucks) and a basic install kit.

My truck has 18k miles on it. I've probably towed about 100 miles of those 18k and the rest has been grocery getter and higway queen.

I would appreciate some feedback based on experience.

Thank you.

 

I would consider myself to be just average mechanical skill level. i did my suspension lift myself and quite a few other things but since i have no experience with differentials i found a shop in town that will install the gears for $110 per axle if i take them just the pumpkin and front differntial then put them back on in my driveway. Saves a ton on labor cost compared to anything else i have been able to find here. something to maybe consider since you will have half of it pulled apart anyways

 

go with the complete install kit, not the wimpy one ! trust me.

As for doing it in my driveway.... not really. I have always had a shop where I could go, with plenty of tools I could use. So, not much help in that aspect. That being said, I think you can do it. Its not that hard, its just time consuming. You MUST have patience. You MUST be EXACT ! Measure everything, and re-check it all 4-5 times or more, to be sure you have the right numbers. Between here, and some other forums, I am sure you could have any answers you need quickly, if you run into anything. Make sure you have all the tools. If it does get overly hard, or you get confused/frustrated, the parts are already there, and your already one step at getting the diff's to a rear-end shop. You'd be fine. Maybe pick a good time, when you don't need the truck that next day or something. Give yourself time, don't be crunched for it.

 

It can't be stressed enough - attention to detail. Clearances and alignments are extremely critical.

 

Hllon4whls,

I have an '02 -150 4x4, and i did the regear in my driveway. Not even any pneumatic tools. The driveway had an awning, or some call it a carport. Anyway, it was a roof over my head. I too had basic hand tools, somewhat mechanical knowledge and definite understanding of math and gauge reading.
Before you even attempt going under and opening everything up, get under there and wash every last clump of mud, dirt and highway grease that you can, cause your gonna be bumpin into everything down there and nockin loose dirt clogs. The cleaner the better
The main worry will be getting dirt/debris blown into areas you dont need them. Clean up the driveway(if paved) as much as you can. if not a paved driveway, I recommend laying down a huge sheet of cardboard, like from a refrigirator(sp) box, so to keep of the ground. You can also lay that cardboard down on the pavement to help absorb random oil leaks, or dropping tools. Also, lots of rags. if you think you might run out, get more.
Get a good drop light as well. that will help out. Jack stands too. Another thing that i did was to remove the exhaust ( Well, I was replacing mine anyway!) to help with clearance in the rear. you would be suprised.
I did make a special tool for myself. In order to hold the pinion flange still while torquing it down, i found and old bed rail ( angle iron ) and cut a piece about 2.5-3 feet long, drilled out a hole in it that i could put a pinion flange to axle flange bolt in. That was a live saver!!
Take a couple of days off work: 3-4, be sure to have a cooler with lots of ice, and filled with your beverage of choice (Water, Soda, Barley Pop, Mad Dog) cause you aint gonna be able to hop in the truck to go to the store
Hope these tips help out some and remember-YOU CAN DO IT.......
ALL NIGHT LONG!!!!

 

I'm still considering it. Thanks to MTech who reminded me that I will need a full install with bearings as one of the cheats is to hollow out the factory bearing to speed sizing the shims.
I may do it. I make good money, but the thought of pissing away $1000 is not a good one nor do I want to mess up my $30k truck.

At minimum, I'll need the gears and install kit and a tuner. Thats a big chunk of change. I dont drive the truck daily, so it wouldnt kill me to spend 2 weekends doing the job (1 axle per weekend) I have a carport and a paved drive. Only problem is I dont think I can lift the truck on stands and have enough height to still clear the bottom of the carport.

In a nutshell, I'm working up the courage. I need to read that tutorial again on pirate 4x4 and I look into buying a video of the gear set up.

 

Hey, if your buying from Randy's R+P, they sell a book for setting up differentials. :"Differentials. Identification, restoration and repair." lots of pics, lots of good reading. also, use the www. to find lots of info on a setup and install. Just something else to throw out there.

 

I hate to totally pimp my company on here but you guys need to get on my site and look around for drivetrain needs, www.eastcoastgearsupply.com we are cheaper than randy's with the same product and we offer tech support form 7:30 am to 10pm 7 days a week. call after ten and we still might answer. I sell a critical differential tool and have done thousands of setups and have helped 1000's of people do their own. you do not need a pinion depth tool infact your wasting your time with one. the tool is the carier bearing and pinion bearing puller tool. i also rent this tool for a $100 so you if you don't want to keep it you can send it back. you also do not need a full install kit if you get the tool. your bearings are practicaly new and you will need a mini install kits. you will need to be able to remove your bearings without damaging them this tool allows you to do just that. An impact gun helps, a press is a must and to do it right the carrier bearing puller. your yukon gears will come with a instuction booklet and will guide you through the process, you can also send us digital pictures of your pattern and we will respond quickly to tell you were you need to go. a beam style inch lb torque wrench is also highly recomended. Gear setups are about 3 things. 1. good pattern ( we can look at your pattern through pics and get you there) 2. bearing preloads (inch lb torque wrench and a tight fit on the carrier) but you will not need to adjust carrier preload as it was set form the factory and your saving your bearings nothing changes there. 3. Puting it back together the way it came apart and torquing evrything. If you do these three things right you will have a factory set up that lasts the life of your truck.

the problem w/ honing out your bearings and using a pinion depth tool. A pinion depth tool gives you a good starting point on what your pinion depth should be. pinion depth is determined by pinion shim thicknes. well good news with the factoy shim you are already close to correct dpeth if your using a quality gear set, as close as what a pinion depth tool can tell you 99% of the time. pinion depth tools leave alot of room for error 1 with math errors and also with placement errors and natural measurement errors. the proof is in the pattern. after using pinion depth tool you still have to run a pattern and it will be close but you will still need to make adjustment. if you run factory shim you will be close and still probably have to make an adjustment.

the problem with honed bearings- if using a honed bearing when you put in the new bearings your pattern can and most likely will change we are talking .001 here so after using your honed bearings and then replacing w/ new bearing your pattern is very likely to change, therfore it is better to just use the bearings your using for final assembly for set- up as well. the problem is most people and shops can not remove bearing with out damaging them. by using the carrier/ pinion bearing puller that eliminates the problem by allowing you to adjust pinion depth using your final assembly bearings.

Again if you purchase gears through us we can walk you through the process and makes sure you get a good quality set up. call us

 

good to know