I decided to replace leaking axle seal today and while I was in there, I found a bearing was bad as well.

I have the proper bearing puller but the race will not come out of the axle. Can I PLEASE have some guidance???

Does this normally require heat (propane torch) to break it free???
If so, do I need to be concerned about the gear oil catching fire???

 

It's still in there

 

AjRagno, is the inner race stuck on the axle or the outer race stuck inside the housing ?

 

There is just one bearing set and they're housed in the race in there. It's not like a front wheel bearing. The race and bearing are assembled and replaced together. The manuals all state "Use Impact Slide Hammer along with Axle Wheel Bearing Puller to remove the rear axle bearing and axle shaft oil seal". This is what I've been using but it doesn't budge.

The outer race is stuck inside the axle housing. This is a solid rear axle here, so it's pressed inside the housing. I've let it sit overnight. Unless you have more thoughful advise, I thought I'd use a grinder to cut part of it away so it can be distorted and liberated from the housing.

It's been in there for 5yrs/75,000 miles.

 

If all else fails you could cut it up with a whizz wheel and remove it that way but take extreme caution not to accidentally cut into the housing. I would slice it in two or more places and then try to remove it that way.

BTW, I seen guys pry them out with a crowbar but I would'nt advise this cuz it does'nt come out evenly that way.

Good luck AjRango.

 

I'm going to see if my Dremel is up to the task.

 

I used my dremel and a cut-off wheel. I simply made and X in the race and it popped out and landed on the floor with 1 hit from a hammer and chistle.

I pressed the new bearing and seal in and all I need to do now is refill the differential. (I'm taking a break)

For everyone out there with leaking seals: Do not pay your dealer $300.00 to replace them. I waited a year to replace mine because I though it would be a difficult job. It's very easy to replace axle seals with a set of jack stands and hand tools. The Haynes manual even has the correct procedure.

The bearings are a slightly different matter.....

 

AjRagno
Thanks, I see this will be another finger smashing, tool throwing job. I might need to replace those soon and did not look foward to it, now I really don't. I have several small problems that add up to one big headache. I want to just get rid of this and get a different one. Afraid to buy a used one, as I might get into more problems than what I have and we all know new ones are too much $. Someone needs to kick some FORD but on these designs and crappy parts.

 

For people replacing axle bearings: pay close attention to the old axle shaft. Is the surface pitted--where the bearing rode on the axle shaft? If so, you can purchase a "repair bearing" (which will offset where the bearing rides on your axle shaft. Or You can purchase a new axle shaft. 8.8" ford diff. should use repair brg.# RP6408 (BCA#) and should be available at any local parts store.

Be sure (when refilling diff.) to jack-up each side, individually (to let oil run down the axle tube). Then bring dif. assy. back to level & top off fluid level. This is important! A friend of my recently replaced an axle brg. in his 8.8" diff. He did not jack up each side of the diff. and let oil run down the tube. Yes, he smoked an axle brg.

 

Gearman is exactly right. Except I would like to say that if you see pitting ( especailly in other area than where the bearing is) it would be a wise chose to replace the the axle. Pitting is a sign of weakness in the axle. The repair kit is meant to be for axle that are still in good shape other than having excessive wear or a groove. The correct kit is as gearman stated RP6408 from BCA or SRP6408 from Motor City.

I didn't think about jacking up each side when I drained and refilled my rear diff. I guess I got lucky because my truck was up on jack stands when I refilled it. After I let it down I did add just a few drops to top it off. So in a sense I did jack up each side to let the gear oil flow into the tubes. That's a very good tip, that I bet no one remembers.

 

This is a picture of the race after the bearings had been ripped out of it. I used a hammer and chistle to break the edges off the race so I wouldn't have to cut through them as well.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...9-75-17605.jpg

This is what the race itself looked like after I removed it.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...9-75-17611.jpg

I don't really know that the bearing was bad to begin with. It seemed as though it rode loose inside the race. It took so much just to get at the bearing that as long as I was in there, I though it would be good (and simple) to replace it. How hard could it be, right? Well......

You should have seen the sparks fly as the cut-off wheel went through the race!!! Boy oh boy, did I miss out on a prime photo opportunity

 

I’m having that same problem with my 96 f150 the whole axle came out going down the road it’s 2wd I’ve replaced spider gears and I’m gonna replace axle bearings and seal the bearings came out on impact but the race is stuck in there I’ve tried hammer and chisel and propane torch. I’m interested in trying cutting wheel but how would I get it in there

 

I used a slide hammer to remove mine.
Harbor freight has this tool for cheap.
https://www.harborfreight.com/rear-a...QaAngIEALw_wcB