I was looking at some lockers for my truck. It is a 2004 F150 4x4 4.6L engine

I'm thinking it has the 8.8 IFS with 28 spline and rear 8.8 with 31 spline.

How difficult are lockers to install?

There are two different brands I was looking at:

Auburn Ected

front part # 545001
rear part # 545002

Are there any other parts I would to do the install or do the part #'s above include everything?


ARB air lockers

front part # RD82
rear part # RD81
compressor # RDCKA

Are there any other parts I would to do the install or do the part #'s above include everything?


Also, where is the cheapest place to get these parts?
Thanks

 

Good luck finding any kind of locker for a reverse cut 8.8 IFS pig. I haven't seen any manufacturers making anything that would work in anything that would be street driven. The rear the ARB or the Eaton Elocker would be ideal, but cost prohibitive. The 8.8 has a fair selection of lockers available from a lunchbox style, to a full carrier detroit, to the elocker style. If you have the cash, either of the lockers you found will be good, but the Eaton Elocker is another equivalent to what you found.

The install of these should be handled by a shop if you have never done this before. These lockers are full carrier lockers and will require setting up the gears again. If the backlash and the preloads are not right you will have noisy gears and they will fail prematurely. You will also need some specialized tools to do this like a dial indicator with a magnetic base as well as an accurate in/lb torque wrench.

 

I don't have a dial indicator, but I do have some tools. I was thinking I could do this myself with maybe some help. I have removed and replaced my lightning engine and tranny a couple of times and just re did my mustang 302.

I don't think the ected unit costs more than $600, too me that is not cost prohibitive. I don't know the cost on the eaton or arb units.

Also, if you look at the links I provided they shoe these lockers fitting the front 8.8 with 28 spline.

For example the eaton site says this.

 

It does look like someone finally came out with a locker for the front of the F150s (took them long enough).

If you feel up to it then it can be done, but you need to know how to set the correct pattern on the gears, how to get the backlash correct, and make sure that the preload is set correctly so the gears don't eat themselves up. Its going to be a little more precision than just pulling an engine, but it can definetly be done at home. I would strongly suggest doing as much research on this as possible before hand and even go to a good driveline shop and talk to one of their techs for any tips.

$600 is on the high end for 8.8 lockers. The regular full spool Detroits are typically $100-200 less. For alot of people $600/axle is alot to spend on lockers.

 

Is it as precise as fitting bearings and filing rings?

I have a shop with all kinds of tools.

There are only 3 companies making these electric and air lockers that I am aware of. Do you know someone cheaper?

 

powerstroke, eaton, arb and aburn gear all make a locker for the reverse 8.8 ifs and have for awile, just for your info and anyone else locking for a selectable locker for this aplication

 

That is what I was thinking because they list a part for it...

 

Setting up rear ends is a whole different animal entirely. It's not really hard but there is a bit of an art to it. It's one of the few things I won't do on a vehicle because if it aint' "right" you will chew ring and pinions up pretty quick. Think of it this way. You either pay the couple hundred to have it done or you take the chance and maybe lay that couple hundred (or more) out for a set of gears( and maybe the locker again depending on failure mode) on down the road. Unless you really know what you are doing or know someone that does, I recommend leaving this one to the pros (and you will rarely hear me say that.

Just my $0.02

Mike

 

I am not sure how the 8.8s are shimmed side to side, but thats really the most difficult part. If you look at a cut-away of the differential, you'll see the axle bearings on both sides of the carrier. There will be shims on either the outside or the inside of those bearings. The bearings are press-fit onto the carrier which means that if they (the shims) are on the inside, you should make the investment in some dummy bearings so they slip-on instead (or, if you have a lathe, you can open the ID of your old bearings up by around .015" so they slip-on.). Even the best pros will take several tries to get the shim-packs right and having to press and remove the actual bearings several times is not pleasant, even with the right tools. There are a couple of really good articles on the net that will show what your wear-pattern needs to look like. Make sure its right or you will have problems ranging from noise to broken teeth.

The other catch is to get your pinion depth set perfectly before crushing the "crush sleeve".

Personally, its not worth my time to install my own gears. I have a mechanic that did mine for $100 front, $150 rear after I had the axles out (Dana 44HP and Ford 9").

As for lockers, the ARB is kind of deceptive at first because you have to buy the air pump too and that, last time I looked, was like $600. Its hard to beat selectable lockers like ARB or OX, but the cost reflects that. IF you go ARB, be extra careful when running your air lines through the cover. Its easy to get the air line messed up and not know it until its all assembled. Stay away from the Lockrite lockers. They are fine for anything the size of a Jeep, but add more weight and power and they'll need new dowels after every outing.