2008 4.0 v6 idle/throttle TROUBLE help ! ! !
#1
2008 4.0 v6 idle/throttle TROUBLE help ! ! !
Now I did it...
My Explorer (2008 4.0 v6 auto 4x4 with about 105,000 miles)had been idling pretty rough, put plugs in hoping that would help, but same.
Looking at it today I thought it seemed like idle was just slow.
Saw what looked like a stop screw on the front side of throttle body.
Thought I might be able to adjust and speed up the idle 50-60 rpms and smooth things out.
Well...
I took the screw out and it looked like the thing had been driven way in and there was some of the bottom plastic area that looked like it had came right off.
I checked inside the threaded hole and saw small piece of the plastic had fallen through.
Took the assembly apart and got the separated piece out of the idle adjusting assembly or whatever I should be calling it.
Took a little to get spring in place and all of it back together but did it.
Replaced the adjustment screw to where I thought it was or close to it.
Went to start the Explorer with hopes of it running smoother but WAY WAY WAY worse.
A couple back fires and REAL rough.
Scanned to see P2104 P2112 and a couple other test not completed codes.
I see all related to idle and throttle.
Tried and tried to clear codes.
Unhooked battery.
Crossed battery cables.
Let sit for a while.
Let idle for a while.
Pulled both battery cables last night and left positive and negative together over night.
Took the air intake tube off and adjusted the screw I wish I had never touched.
Kept my fingers on the throttle blade and adjusted the screw until it had the blade just cracked.
Looks and I "think" that is approximately where it was when I started.
Had high hopes, reconnected battery, turn the key...same
Saw a video online where Ford tech disconnected negative cable from battery and ran a small jumper wire to positive cable still attached to battery.
Says that will drain capacitors after 1/2 hour or so and should clear codes, trims, etc.
HOPED this would help me too.
But throttle still non working and little rough running.
I can get one of the check engine lights off but wrench stays lit on dash and no throttle.
Is there any way to fix this?
Almost seems to run good enough, but needs a big major code cleared now....?
Is the screw need to be set with more critical positioning?
Hoping to figure this out soon.
Can't drive it now.
Freeze frame from scanner below and some pics of what I am talking about.
Appreciate any and all help.
THANKS
Vehicle VIN: 1FM
Vehicle Manufacturer: Ford
Vehicle Calibration ID: PWF
Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 25.098 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 77 °C
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = -0.781 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = 0 %
Intake Manifold Pressure = 4.351 psi
Engine RPM = 719.5 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 0 km/h
Timing Advance = 15 °
Intake Air Temperature = 34 °C
Mass Air Flow Rate = 4.44 g/s
Fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 = 0 %
Fuel trim bank 2 sensor 1 = -0.781 %
Run time since engine start = 83 s
Fuel Rail Pressure (relative to manifold vacuum) = 39.806 psi
EGR Commanded = 0 %
EGR Error = 0 %
Fuel Level (From Engine ECU) = 89.412 %
Distance travelled since codes cleared = 0 km
Evap System Vapour Pressure = -94.25 Pa
Barometric pressure (from vehicle) = 13.489 psi
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1,Sensor 1) = 211.9 °C
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 2,Sensor 1) = 211.9 °C
PID: 41 = 0
Voltage (Control Module) = 14.169 V
Engine Load(Absolute) = 15.686 %
Commanded Equivalence Ratio(lambda) = 1
Relative Throttle Position = 1.961 %
Ambient air temp = 34 °C
Absolute Throttle Position B = 17.647 %
Accelerator PedalPosition D = 20.392 %
Accelerator PedalPosition E = 30.196 %
Accelerator PedalPosition F = 19.216 %
End of report.
My Explorer (2008 4.0 v6 auto 4x4 with about 105,000 miles)had been idling pretty rough, put plugs in hoping that would help, but same.
Looking at it today I thought it seemed like idle was just slow.
Saw what looked like a stop screw on the front side of throttle body.
Thought I might be able to adjust and speed up the idle 50-60 rpms and smooth things out.
Well...
I took the screw out and it looked like the thing had been driven way in and there was some of the bottom plastic area that looked like it had came right off.
I checked inside the threaded hole and saw small piece of the plastic had fallen through.
Took the assembly apart and got the separated piece out of the idle adjusting assembly or whatever I should be calling it.
Took a little to get spring in place and all of it back together but did it.
Replaced the adjustment screw to where I thought it was or close to it.
Went to start the Explorer with hopes of it running smoother but WAY WAY WAY worse.
A couple back fires and REAL rough.
Scanned to see P2104 P2112 and a couple other test not completed codes.
I see all related to idle and throttle.
Tried and tried to clear codes.
Unhooked battery.
Crossed battery cables.
Let sit for a while.
Let idle for a while.
Pulled both battery cables last night and left positive and negative together over night.
Took the air intake tube off and adjusted the screw I wish I had never touched.
Kept my fingers on the throttle blade and adjusted the screw until it had the blade just cracked.
Looks and I "think" that is approximately where it was when I started.
Had high hopes, reconnected battery, turn the key...same
Saw a video online where Ford tech disconnected negative cable from battery and ran a small jumper wire to positive cable still attached to battery.
Says that will drain capacitors after 1/2 hour or so and should clear codes, trims, etc.
HOPED this would help me too.
But throttle still non working and little rough running.
I can get one of the check engine lights off but wrench stays lit on dash and no throttle.
Is there any way to fix this?
Almost seems to run good enough, but needs a big major code cleared now....?
Is the screw need to be set with more critical positioning?
Hoping to figure this out soon.
Can't drive it now.
Freeze frame from scanner below and some pics of what I am talking about.
Appreciate any and all help.
THANKS
Vehicle VIN: 1FM
Vehicle Manufacturer: Ford
Vehicle Calibration ID: PWF
Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 25.098 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 77 °C
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = -0.781 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = 0 %
Intake Manifold Pressure = 4.351 psi
Engine RPM = 719.5 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 0 km/h
Timing Advance = 15 °
Intake Air Temperature = 34 °C
Mass Air Flow Rate = 4.44 g/s
Fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 = 0 %
Fuel trim bank 2 sensor 1 = -0.781 %
Run time since engine start = 83 s
Fuel Rail Pressure (relative to manifold vacuum) = 39.806 psi
EGR Commanded = 0 %
EGR Error = 0 %
Fuel Level (From Engine ECU) = 89.412 %
Distance travelled since codes cleared = 0 km
Evap System Vapour Pressure = -94.25 Pa
Barometric pressure (from vehicle) = 13.489 psi
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1,Sensor 1) = 211.9 °C
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 2,Sensor 1) = 211.9 °C
PID: 41 = 0
Voltage (Control Module) = 14.169 V
Engine Load(Absolute) = 15.686 %
Commanded Equivalence Ratio(lambda) = 1
Relative Throttle Position = 1.961 %
Ambient air temp = 34 °C
Absolute Throttle Position B = 17.647 %
Accelerator PedalPosition D = 20.392 %
Accelerator PedalPosition E = 30.196 %
Accelerator PedalPosition F = 19.216 %
End of report.
#3
WOW
This was a LONG time ago.
I fixed, drove 100+k miles.
And traded the Explorer towards my Raptor.
But...
I purchased a new throttle body.
After posting on a few other sites, I learned that I screwed up by removing the screw I show in those pics.
There was no saving, recalibrating, or using that throttle body after I did that.
Without knowing if a new one was actually the answer at the time, I bought a "cheap" one.
Thinking if it screwed up, but ran, I would get a real Ford part later.
The cheap one did last OK.
Was still doing good when I sold the Explorer.
Good luck with your fix.
Looking at the date of my original post, I see about 4 and 1/2 years until I sold the Explorer.
So the cheap throttle body lasted and worked well at least that long.
Assuming still doing OK too.
This was a LONG time ago.
I fixed, drove 100+k miles.
And traded the Explorer towards my Raptor.
But...
I purchased a new throttle body.
After posting on a few other sites, I learned that I screwed up by removing the screw I show in those pics.
There was no saving, recalibrating, or using that throttle body after I did that.
Without knowing if a new one was actually the answer at the time, I bought a "cheap" one.
Thinking if it screwed up, but ran, I would get a real Ford part later.
The cheap one did last OK.
Was still doing good when I sold the Explorer.
Good luck with your fix.
Looking at the date of my original post, I see about 4 and 1/2 years until I sold the Explorer.
So the cheap throttle body lasted and worked well at least that long.
Assuming still doing OK too.