Note that what may appear to be a leaky rear glass problem could be in fact a leaky 3rd brake light. A 10 minute job with some silicone might be your answer...

 

The reason I say it's the back glass is because whenever we get a heavy rain, the headliner is never wet. The water collects right next to the rear seat brackets that connect to the floor onboth sides of the cab.

 

My headliner never got wet either, water would run down the inside of the window and collect on top of the lower seal.

 

I am in the middle of following the steps... (which are great) .
I would just add you will need a Torx-50 head to remove the seat belts.

I did have a question though - beside the butle tape, there is a rubber weather stripping ? around the plastic frame.

Is that needed, mine is beat up and I was thinking I should fix? replace it ? What is it called and where can I get it.. Does it do anything? Do I need it? How does it stay in place?

Thanks for any advice.

 

Very useful steps! Seat belts off, side panels down, top liner down, all bolts off. Only one problem. I cannot get the window to move at all. I have taken a knife and tried to cut along the frame and glass. Sealent is hard as a rock. Don't want to force the window and end up breaking the frame or glass. Cannot figure what Im doing wrong. I'm about to the point of calling the glass man.

 

Not sure what to really tell you... the bead is about a half inch thick so, it can be a formidable oppoent to overcome.

Maybe try a heat gun to attempt to make the butyl gooey?

 

I have the window out and know where to buy the butyl.

Where can I buy a new trim and ruber seal for the trim. 2 of the tabs are broken on my trim where the studs are cliped on. The foam washers for the studs are bad and the ruber seel is dry and I would like to replace it

I have a 2001 4 door with sliding window

 

I had this problem with my 2006 F-150. I ended up taking out the rear window and replacing the seal(butyl tape). It still leaked though. So what I learned is this: The factory tightened the nuts that hold the window into place to just about finger tight. when I resealed my window I did the same thinking this was correct. It was very frustrating to see water leaking through when I checked for leaks. So what I did was tighten down the nuts while my friend used a heatergun around the outside of the window (making sure not to damage the paint). The idea was to soften the butyl tape while I secured the window tighter to the truck. The result was what I was looking for-the leaking stopped!
So I may have found a quick fix to the problem. I would suggest trying the heater gun and tightening the nuts before removing the entire window. You will have to remove some of the window molding and pull the two fasteners that hold the head liner first to get to the bolts.

If this doesn't work then you may want to replace the butyl tape (Nappa sells a kit for around $18.00 with plenty of butyl tape). Also, I would buy some 3m butyl primer, incase you scratch up the paint around the window (You may be able to avoid scratching if you use some painters tape and place it in the window grove-good luck though). One more helpful hint-I tried using the wire to slice through the old seal and it started to cut into the plastic frame. What I found to be the best tool was a 5-in-1 and a small ice pick. I started at a bottom corner and used the pick to punch through the old seal. I worked my way up to the roof and then across the bottom and up the other side(At this point two people make it easier). Once that was done, the person on the outside carefully pulled from the bottom as the other cuts the top of the seal from the inside. It was really pretty simple to remove. The old butyl tape comes off easy as well. I found if you tear off a glob and then use it to press against the remaing tape it adheres to itself and comes off with little effort. To clean the truck frame and window I used 91% rubbing alcohol and some old rags. When applying the new butyl tape be sure to start in the lower right corner of the window(there is a place in the grove to start and finish, where it overlaps).
Good luck. The total project took my friend and I a little over half a day to complete. But it fells good knowing my truck is water tight. Also, it saved me at least $175.00.

 

If you find this thread in a search (Like I did). There is a better thread with photos here:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...ar-window.html

 

you can also just **** all the way around the plastic frame to the cab of the truck but the main spot they leak is through the 3rd brake light i put 3 new bulbs it in and then ****ed it all the way around and it stopped it

 

I have a 99F150 with a manual slider. The plastic frame is cracked in several places and is allowing water to drip inside the cab. Unsuccessfully, I have tried the liquid silicone option and now it looks like I need to purchase a new frame. The question, where is the best place ( cost and convenience) to purchase a slider frame?

JC Whitney offers an aluminum frame at $149 that is made by CR Laurence. After calling CRL, they were not familiar with the part # and the recommended Keystone Automotive and Discount Auto Glass. Searching this forum and others didnt yield a definitive course of action.

Any ideas would be very much appreciated.
thx